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this fridge is for a local charity. I am a local mechanic and electrician, so I am skilled with meters and tools. I guess this is why people bring me this type of thing. the charity said when it came to them, it started, "froze" then wouldn't start cooling again. (I am to assume "froze" meant "cool to specs") when I brought it to my shop and plugged it in, the door lights came on. I set the controls, but all I heard was clicking (1 to 1.5 second intervals) from a relay on the board in the back. the condensor fan (located near the compressor) moves on ever y click like a wristwatch. same exact movement. I didn't check the water or ice, since I don't have the water line hooked up. the buttones on the front seem to stay lit when you press them. I don't know if this is normal. if there is a cheap fix, great, if not, tell me what the damage is, and I will see if they have the money in their coffers to fix it. my labor is free, but parts have to be on them.
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Basically the board is bad but if you look on the back of the board you may find a loose or burnt solder joint. If this fails or there are no burnt or loose solder joints you will have to replace the board. Look good on the front of the board and if you see a burnt resistor replace the main board and the evaporator fan because it more than likely cause the resistor to burn. Refrigerator repair guide
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you were right, after magnified inspection, R6 seems to have been overheated. I can still see the true color bands on it, and they appear to be 3 brown bands, with a slightly darker brown band on the end, possibly. 111-10/1, but I could be wrong. do you think I may be lucky, replace a $0.10 resistor, instead of billing the charity for a new $150 (+ shipping) board? of course the fan will get replaced without question.
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[FONT='Times New Roman']Actually what I was talking about was a resistor completely burnt as in you wouldn’t need a magnifying glass. If it is just discolored I wouldn’t necessary replace the fan. Sorry if I mislead you. I am not saying that resistor isn't bad just that if the fan is shorted the ristor will be burnt bad. [/FONT]
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Originally Posted by: applianceman  Actually what I was talking about was a resistor completely burnt as in you wouldn’t need a magnifying glass. If it is just discolored I wouldn’t necessary replace the fan. Sorry if I mislead you. I am not saying that resistor isn't bad just that if the fan is shorted the ristor will be burnt bad. it is a bit more than discolored, but definately not completely burned to a crisp. obviously 2 things come to mind: 1, SOMETHING caused it to become discolored, and partially burn the board (in the naked eye, the board is charred on a scale of 1-10, about a 4, resistor, same) and 2, since it is not my appliance, and I can't take big risks, I have to err on the side of caution and replace what is wrong, if it isn't repairable. and no, you didn't mislead me, you made the right call. if isn't broke, don't fix it, but if you see smoke, obviously, it needs to be replaced.
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Good Point don't risk it!! Because that fan will cause the board to go bad.
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I was wondering if ronamer ever solve his problem, and how?:confused:
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Originally Posted by: skiduckski I was wondering if ronamer ever solve his problem, and how?:confused: as of yet, I don't have clearance from the food bank to purchase new parts, so I became clever. I went to the radio shack in Globe arizona (only one there, or near me for that matter.) and spoke to the owner, an experienced electronics tech. he looked at it, pulled the resistor off the board (w/ a soldering iron) and checked it. 32k ohms. after checking the internet, no shematic was found, but we guessed it was actually a 33k ohm that resides in the R6 "slot" on the board. also, capacitors C29 (x2) looked a bit "unhealthy. the tops were "kinda pregnant" and it may be time to replace those as well. they are 25v 470uf (wierd u symbol is not currently found on a 101 keyboard). the radio shack P/N is 272-1030. the resister P/N was 271-1129. all can be had for under 10 clams. as for the fan, I don't remember how to test it. well, everything else is gravy. I have made my efforts to salvage the MB because I don't really have anything else I can do right now without the ok to spend some money. any ideas would be appreciated . footnote, the resistor WAS bad, we guess. maybe good on the ohms test, but not energized. part of the ceramic was embedded on the board. this means I need to find out the real value of it, if we were not correct, and how to check the fan. I prefer to run voltage thru it VS ohms test, but either will work.
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Originally Posted by: applianceman Good Point don't risk it!! Because that fan will cause the board to go bad. as of yet, I don't have clearance from the food bank to purchase new parts, so I became clever. I went to the radio shack in Globe arizona (only one there, or near me for that matter.) and spoke to the owner, an experienced electronics tech. he looked at it, pulled the resistor off the board (w/ a soldering iron) and checked it. 32k ohms. after checking the internet, no shematic was found, but we guessed it was actually a 33k ohm that resides in the R6 "slot" on the board. also, capacitors C29 (x2) looked a bit "unhealthy. the tops were "kinda pregnant" and it may be time to replace those as well. they are 25v 470uf (wierd u symbol is not currently found on a 101 keyboard). the radio shack P/N is 272-1030. the resister P/N was 271-1129. all can be had for under 10 clams. as for the fan, I don't remember how to test it. well, everything else is gravy. I have made my efforts to salvage the MB because I don't really have anything else I can do right now without the ok to spend some money. any ideas would be appreciated . footnote, the resistor WAS bad, we guess. maybe good on the ohms test, but not energized. part of the ceramic was embedded on the board. this means I need to find out the real value of it, if we were not correct, and how to check the fan. I prefer to run voltage thru it VS ohms test, but either will work.
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a few more quickies.....
I have NOT applied electricity to the unit, so nothing has been tested. I don't have a pass or fail answer on the fix until I can find a way to test the fan. 2 wires, no problem, but this, as you know has 4 wires.
also, "shematics" is a term I use instead of schematics. I don't understand women, or schematics, but I can't live without either. think about it
destructions: directions of assembly that come in "some assembly required" boxes that originate in a foriegn country and are listed in 16 different languages, none of any that resemble english. (usually purchased from wally world)
oops, wal-mart.
also note I am mentioning, for those reading this, I went to an EXPERIENCED electronics tech. when in doubt, or if you are a novice and don't know, ASK SOMEONE!! it is safer. I am knowledgeable in electronics, but even I consult others for safety reasons. don't kill yourself trying to be cute. be safe.
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