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I did a search for my model but it showed no results.
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Originally Posted by: dberg Freezer set to 0 degrees, display reads 0, digital thermometer placed in freezer with external monitor reads 0. Freezer set to -5, display reads -5, digital thermometer reads -5. If fridge set 35, display reads 35, digital thermometer reads 47. Set at 38, display shows 38, digital thermometer reads 49. Food going bad at those temps. At max cool setting still can't get below 45.
When it worked fine, the bottom vegetable drawer used to freeze lettuce occassionally. Hasn't done that is a long time. Having milk in door sour way too soon so I'm not imaging a problem.
Compressor and condenser run fine, no dust on condenser coils.
I have had two repair folks out and, so far, I've replaced the following parts: main circuit board, inverter box, refrigerator thermistor, air baffle/diffuser. Still same problem. Removed evaporator cover. Looks fine, no uneven ice problem, not blocked with ice at all, just the fine layer you would expect with a properly working evaporator. Evaporator fan working fine. You can feel air flowing into fridge through diffuser.
Repair manual says the display won't show temperature differences between set and actual temps if the difference is less than 6 degrees (to account for temp changes caused by door opening/closing). But there's a difference of more than 10 degrees which isn't being reflected in the display.
Does the display board control how the evaporator fan and diffuser run or is that done by the main board which was already replaced? Why doesn't the display board show a 10-12 degree temperature difference between set and actual? When unplugged and plugged back in after a 1/2 hour, it did reflect a 20-25 degree difference, but I didn't watch to see at what point it went to display temp. Which logic board is responsible for the monitoring of set vs actual? Main circuit board or display circuit board? If the display circuit board, does the display board then send signal to main board to turn on compressor, evaporator, evaporator fan, diffuser, etc.? Just trying to figure out whether to spend another $150 to replace display board.
Any ideas on what to try now? Before going any further I would check something simple, the light. You need to make sure that the refrigerator light is actually turning off when the door is shut. The best way to eliminate this possibility would be to simply unscrew the bulb then run your temp test again.
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Kind of like beating a dead horse I know, but my fridge side is warming up to the point of spoilage. The freezer side has a 1/8 or so frosting on the back panel, but keeps stuff frozen. I'm getting no flow thru the damper, but ithe damper does work. My question is what is the first thing to replace with the defrost cycle...before the whole board. I've noticed there are two defrost sensors. Should I replace those and see what happens? My fridge is a GE/Hotpoint HSS25GFTAWW
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Originally Posted by: arickt Kind of like beating a dead horse I know, but my fridge side is warming up to the point of spoilage. The freezer side has a 1/8 or so frosting on the back panel, but keeps stuff frozen. I'm getting no flow thru the damper, but ithe damper does work. My question is what is the first thing to replace with the defrost cycle...before the whole board. I've noticed there are two defrost sensors. Should I replace those and see what happens? My fridge is a GE/Hotpoint HSS25GFTAWW Does the fan inside the freezer work? Gene.
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Yes Gene, the fan in the freezer works and seems to blow cool air. Need to add an update. Last night I was fooling around with the return air on the fridge side, pulled the cover and reached in. Couldn't really see what I was messing with, but the freezer fan stopped, and I thought maybe it was going into defrost mode. But, it came on a short while later, and has been running since. I am almost positive it has something to do with the defrost cycle. I have yet to pull off the back cover...I'm trying to use up most of whats in the freezer so I don't have to pitch it.
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You can check the defrost heater and the defrost thermostat from inside the freezer after the rear panel removed, but easier to check them from the control board on the back of the refrigerator. They are wired together and you'll have to cut some wires to check them from the freezer. You can find the instructions on how to do it from the control board on page 3 of this thread. Here are the breakdown diagrams and parts list for the Hotpoint refrigerator Model HSS25GFTAWW
Gene.
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Thanks Gene, I was ready to pull the inside panel off, but if it makes more sense doing it from the backside, I'll do it that way. May take a day or two, but I'll let you know what I find out.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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How to remove the pump.doc (25kb) downloaded 11 time(s).Hi Gene, are the boards on fridges all the same. I have found the J7 connector...the 9th position (as counted from right to left) is the orange wire, however, I find nothing to indicate the defrost terminal. Is it the connector directly to the left of the J7? If it is, which wire of the three do I use? I think I have attached the image of the board, but, can't really tell. Thanks, Arick arickt attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Arick,
The defrost heater terminal is J9 (middle) terminal.
Gene.
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