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I'm having a clicking issue as well.
Can't seem to find my GE Profile fridge part number anywhere. Weird.
ON the fridge it says: PSM23SGPCFBS and VG426376 but that brings up emptry search results.
Anyway-- the main board part says: WKKT Model: 0158-01-02
GEA part No: 200D4852G010
It looks like two capacitors (470 uF) have either very bad factory solder, or more likely were replaced.
I'm in Costa Rica, where factory refurb models are sold as new all the time... that could be it.
Anyway. It clicks, displays HRS in the temp control. Sometimes shows the temp as -37 and 30 (even if hot).
The fan spins slowly.
Sometimes, the clicking stops, the fan fires up, and all seems right in the world.
But not today :(
The capacitors that I suspect are HOT to the touch. Can't tell for sure where the click is clicking, but it is on the board, not the compressor.
If I jump the compressor to the Line lead, the compressor runs.
Help?
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Very likely the problem is a bad main control board which was ongoing problem for numbers of years. Possible the fan motor is bad as well. Usually if the fan motor goes bad it causing damage to the control board.
The model number you posted, probably does not come because this is not an American model. The valid GE part number should start with "WR". Double check the control board and fan motor for such numbers.
Gene.
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Rank: Member
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Just be careful if you are doing this as there are some 400v capacitor's on that board that will give you a nasty shock.
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Rank: Member
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Replacing the two blown capacitor's worked fine for me. It cost about $5.00 in supplies and about 10 minutes of labor.
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Rank: Member
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Seems that I haven't got much choice but to try fixing the capacitors... I'm quite certain on those part numbers- triple checked and asked my wife to read it too. It appears that two caps were hand-soldered on at some point, probably fixing the same problem. or factory refurb. The two caps that seem to be the culprit are smallish radial capacitors marked w/ 470uF 25v 105*C. There is also a larger capacitor that "feels" like it is clicking sometimes when the clicking is happening. Seems odd to me as I thought caps have no moving parts. Might just be that a relay is clicking and the cap is where you feel it. I've been cautious about what to touch as the board is clearly marked "high voltage" next to at least one component. Thanks for the help, I'm taking the board in today to a local cellphone repair guy who dabbles in domestic appliances. I assume he'll tell me it'll take a few days to get the capacitors :( But I'd just as soon risk $10 or so on a fix vs. try to order a mother board that appears to not exist in the USA (which means it is probably identical to your board, but $400 instead of $100). I may also go fridge shopping. I don't particularly love this fridge anyway and it might be time to upgrade to something else. Originally Posted by: sdsheeks  Replacing the two blown capacitor's worked fine for me. It cost about $5.00 in supplies and about 10 minutes of labor.
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Rank: Member
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Hello all,my fridge to was making the infamous clicking noise then crapped out.I read that someone out here changed the 2 capacitors on the control board that were heating up inturn fixing the problem.So i went to radio shack and bought 2 new replacment capacitors same value the fridge came to life the problem now is once it gets up to temperature it shuts off and the freezer gets up to 50 or 60 degrees f before it turns back on.What should i do is it the contol board or somthing else.Both fans work and i have the 2 temp controls cranked.
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could my fan be going bad that blows on the compressor it spins.I forgot to add i replaced the fan located in the freezer before i repaired the control board I thought the fan was bad but it was ok.I have a ge double door side by side stainless steel fridge.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 8/31/2009(UTC)
Posts: 3
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Hello all,my fridge to was making the infamous clicking noise then crapped out.I read that someone out here changed the 2 capacitors on the control board that were heating up inturn fixing the problem.So i went to radio shack and bought 2 new replacment capacitors same value the fridge came to life the problem now is once it gets up to temperature it shuts off and the freezer gets up to 50 or 60 degrees f before it turns back on.What should i do is it the contol board or somthing else.Both fans work and i have the 2 temp controls cranked.
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Rank: Member
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Good news! I replaced 4 capacitors-- two that were clearly bulging and two that were identical to each of the 'bad' ones, and right next to 'em. I figured that for an extra $3 it was easier to replace the caps while I was there vs. wondering if I should have done it.
I didn't count, but I imagine that there are only about 6 or so more caps in the whole board, to replace all of them would still cost much less than a new board.
In any event: it works! the fridge and freezer work without any failures that i can see.
Best part: my fridge light works again (it was down before) and the ice dispenser is also working again.
The flapper on the ice dispenser door still fails to open unless I reach up and flip it with my finger- I plan to get into the door at some future point to figure out the issue. But I can live without that feature as long as the rest is good.
I'm planning to add an Aux cooling fan to the back of the frige- blowing at te compressor, in the hopes that it will make things run cooler/less runtime, but otherwise I am very satisfied.
Total cost to me was $20. And that's only because I paid someone to do the soldering because I was feeling lazy. The soldering itself is pretty darn easy. Parts were under $8 for the four caps.
Next problem: fridge door light switch sticks. I can't see any easy way into it to fix it. Any thoughts? Or should I just plan to replace it?
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 9/27/2009(UTC)
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My fridge just started exhibiting the same clicking noise last night, and I found this thread. I moved into my unit here in Feb 2008, although the fridge was probably purchased in 2007 or perhaps late 2006.
Model #: PDS20FSBLSS
Serial #: RL041851
GE apparently can't send anyone to look at it until Tuesday, and I have no idea how to access the main board to see if it has potential problems. It sounds likely that it is the culprit, however. Any idea if it's covered by the "free replacement" program mentioned in previous posts?
Thanks
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