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It's not the circuit breaker and the terminal block on the back of the machine is getting all the right voltage. do you recommend I check the thermal fuse? If you do, do I have to remove the drum or just the rear panel? And what resistence should the meter show if the fuse is good? If this isn't the way to go what do you recommend?
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Originally Posted by: Gene  According to the wiring diagram there are three parts involved in the heating circuit which you have to check for continuity: 1. The heating element (#15 on the diagram) 2. The high limit thermostat (#33 on the diagram) 3. The control thermostat (#15 on the diagram) - The heating element Part number: AP2106978
- The high limit thermostat Part number: AP2131477
really? the diagram doesn't show a thermal cut-off fuse? Do you happen to know the best way to get inside this machine to test these electrical components you mentioned? I tried to take the back of the dryer off but the drum seems to be attached to it. Is the drum suppose to be unscrewed from inside were the clothes go?
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The access to most of parts is from the front. You have to remove the panel under the dryer, the dryer top panel and the dryer front panel.
Gene.
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I'm not sure we're talking about the same type of machine. It's a Laundry Center (one piece) with the dryer on top of the washer.
Do you happen to know where I can get a repair manual with step by step instructions on the tear down of this machine? I did a google search but didn't come up with anything in the way of repair manuals for kenmore washer/dryers. Thanks,Greg
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Quote:...I'm not sure we're talking about the same type of machine. It's a Laundry Center (one piece) with the dryer on top of the washer... Yes, I figured it out. Quote:
...where I can get a repair manual with step by step instructions on the tear down of this machine?... Even this machine made by Frigidaire, it has Kenmore name on it and all manuals are available through Sears only. Gene.
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