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lpisansky  
#1 Posted : Thursday, July 23, 2009 8:42:34 AM(UTC)
lpisansky

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We purchased the replacement glass cooktop, Part #7920P217-60 from you. My husband did the replacement. All the burners work great, but now when we turn on any burner, there is a louder than normal "click" as the fan starts. The fan is much louder (probably 5 times louder)while the burner is on than it was before. We thought the fan may need replacing, so ordered & installed that part, but it didn't change anything. Do you have any idea what could be wrong to cause this??
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Gene  
#2 Posted : Thursday, July 23, 2009 3:48:06 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Make sure the fan blade is not touching anything.

Gene.
lpisansky  
#3 Posted : Thursday, July 23, 2009 5:47:11 PM(UTC)
lpisansky

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The fan blades are definitely NOT rubbing against anything. The sound is not like that of the blades, but like that of the motor (more of a bearing sound). It's like a metal sound such as if it's running at too high an rpm. I'm not sure if the fan speed is supposed to be variable, but it almost seems like it's running too fast (even when only the warming burner is on).
Gene  
#4 Posted : Friday, July 24, 2009 11:42:51 AM(UTC)
Gene

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What is the part number of the fan motor you installed?

According to the Tech sheet the cooling fan motor RPM should be 2100±400 and it suppose to be 120 VAC for the motor.

Gene.
lpisansky  
#5 Posted : Friday, July 24, 2009 1:31:35 PM(UTC)
lpisansky

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The part # 74010173-----could my husband have installed something incorrectly?? He plans to take it apart tomorrow again.
Gene  
#6 Posted : Friday, July 24, 2009 5:19:28 PM(UTC)
Gene

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The motor harness plugs into the control board. It has to be double checked as well as the voltage to the motor.

Gene.
lpisansky  
#7 Posted : Friday, July 24, 2009 7:30:49 PM(UTC)
lpisansky

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I am somewhat puzzled by your response. The glass cooktop (which is the component that I replaced) has an integrated touchpad circuitry. This connects to the main circuitry board (which was not replaced), which in turn connects to and controls the five burners and the fan motor. I photographed the wiring before any disconnections were made and referred to the photos before making reconnections. There is only one possible connection between the fan motor and the main cicuitry board, because of the reach of the wiring. Likewise the other connections were straightforward, because the reach of the wiring did not allow any alternative connections. The electrical outlet to which the main (and only) power cord of the cooktop is connected did not change in this process. How can the voltage to the fan motor be any different between the original glasstop and the replacement glass cooktop? Is the circuitry in the new glasstop defective? Do I need to purchase a voltmeter to check the voltage entering the fan motor? As I mentioned, I'm rather puzzled by this whole process, since it seemed so straightforward.
:confused:
Gene  
#8 Posted : Saturday, July 25, 2009 1:44:03 PM(UTC)
Gene

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My recommendations based on your descriptions. You posted earlier:

Quote:
...It's like a metal sound such as if it's running at too high an rpm...


It can be only if it's a wrong part or a wrong voltage.

Check what is written on the motor itself. Supply 120 VAC straight to the motor (don't care about polarity) and see how it works. Be careful not electrocute yourself.

Gene.
lpisansky  
#9 Posted : Saturday, July 25, 2009 7:52:53 PM(UTC)
lpisansky

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Hmmm. The fan motor cannot be the wrong part. The original fan motor is original to the cooktop unit, and it worked fine with the original glasstop. It was very quiet. The descriptive information written on the fan motor states "240V 60MZ", and the electrical power supply to the cooktop hasn't changed.

When I replaced the glasstop, the original fan then made the louder sound - metal on metal sound. So, I cleaned the fan motor, but it did not change the sound. So, I thought that the fan motor must be bad, and I bought and installed a new one (the new one has exactly the same descriptions as the original) - same metal on metal sound.

I took the whole unit out today and assured there are no loose internal parts that might be the source of the metal-on-metal sound, eventough I thought this was very unlikely. I put the unit back in, reconnected the power supply, and the fan motor has the same metal-on-metal sound.

I follwed your instruction and I tied the fan motor into a 120V outlet out in the garage and it ran just fine. Slower speed and very quiet - no metal-on-metal sound - and a nice steady breeze. Is there a switch somewhere on the glasstop circuit, on the main circuit board, or elswhere that can be switched. Is the glasstop the wrong part or defective? The only factor that's new in all this is the glasstop with its integrated circuitry.
Gene  
#10 Posted : Monday, July 27, 2009 9:51:40 AM(UTC)
Gene

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According to the wiring diagram there are no switches for the cooling fan. The fan motor operates by the control board which is a separate part. The electronic part of the glass top is just a touch pad.

I believe there is nothing wrong electrically. The body and supports in this cooktop made of sheet metal which is very easy to bend. In can be almost invisible while the cooktop is taken apart and it can cause a problem when it's assembled. I will look there for a cause of this problem.

Here is the Service manual.

Gene.
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