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:confused: Defrost timer and defrost thermostat already replaced. Same symptoms: fridge too warm, freezer cold with frost buildup on back panel. The "flying black lead" on replacement timer is confusing---what does it do? I've connected it to lead #2 as per instructions.
Unit seems to work just fine for several days, then back to the symptoms above. Where to logically go from here?
Thanks for your input.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 3/10/2009(UTC)
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Can you post your instructions.
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Rank: Member
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Thanks for the instant response! Quote from FSP instructions: "for cumulative run timer push slotted loose timer motor lead over & all the way down terminal number 2."
Schematic shows pink lead (#2) goes to defrost heater. What exactly does this black "flying lead" do? It would be good if defrost timer instructions had explained this.
I appreciate the help with this.:confused:
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 3/10/2009(UTC)
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I'm thinking that the cumulative run position wouldn't defrost till the compressor ran a total of(8 hours). Without it, it will defrost in 8 hours real time not compressor run time. This doesn't explain your problem. Test your timer this way
_ You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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As long as the cold control is on, the defrost timer motor will run, or with the newer type, it will advance. This will occur either in compressor run periods, or defrost periods. You may have the timer wired up improperly. Just make sure it allways advances in defrost or run.
If you got the older type timer with a external motor, you can see the motor flywheel moving
AP3110896 I assume is the part #
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 6/23/2009(UTC)
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Thanks for your comments. The defrost timer was replaced last week with new model with loose black lead connected to lead#2 (I'm suspicious of that thing), which the schematic shows going to the defroster. As Woodchuckie suggested, I put the timer in defrost mode---there is no heat at the defroster. Would it be reasonable to replace the defrost thermostat next?
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 9/10/2007(UTC)
Posts: 9,586
Was thanked: 2 time(s) in 2 post(s)
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If your defrost heater is a glass one, you can tell visibly if it is open. Most of the time it's the defrost thermostat that's bad. You can pull it off, temporarily short the wires and see if defrost works.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 6/23/2009(UTC)
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I apreciate you folks taking time to deal with my questions. All good advice. (I'm responding to an email from APP here, seeking my opinion of the service.)
Some more detail would be helpful, especially about that "flying black" lead on the replacement defrost timers. But I'm homing in on the culprit, which now appears to be the thermostat. I'll know more in a few days.
Cheers---:)
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