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Originally Posted by: Joel Gordes  Hi Magician59,
Did not get reply to my last post. Are you still with me on this. If I did it right, I got no voltage across the supply side that goes to the ignitor. Waht would be next step to trace this back?
Best,
Joel Gordes Soeey...just started a new job and couldn't respond. To test for voltage. the load has to be connected. Without a load, there's no current. You are looking for 115 to 120VAC, so make sure your meter is set to AC Volts, in the 200VAC range.
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Rank: Member
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Ah, OK, will work out the details of being able to get the probes into there while the ignitor is connected (tight fit). Yes, had it on AC volts which I believe is the high range. This will have to wait until the weekend probably.
Good luck on the new job.
Best,
Joel Gordes
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Rank: Member
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Hi Magician59,
I just used the multimeter and tested for any voltage across the ignitor when connected to the power leads leads and with the power connected, set on a dry cycle and the door closed. The motor ran but I had no voltage across the ignitor. Next step?
Best,
Joel Gordes
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 8/16/2007(UTC)
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No volts at the ignitor connection means it isn't receiving the power from the timer. I couldn't see a schematic for your machine, but the next thing to do is check the thermal fuse and thermostats. Normally, if the thermal fuse is blown, you won't have any motor action, but it never hurts to check for continuity in all these components, before concluding the timer is bad.
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Rank: Member
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Yup, actually I DID check the thermal fuse and continuity is there--and the motor does run normally. Where do I find the other component I am supposed to check?
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 8/16/2007(UTC)
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Just follow one of the leads from the ignitor toward the motor (and wiring harness). the thermostats are in series with it, One will have only two terminals on it. One of them is probably right on the heater cone.
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Rank: Member
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OK, I saw nothing right on the heater cone but here is what we do have:
1) Part #15, the T-stat Hi-Limit is mounted high up on part #14 called the "box" into which the heater cone connects at the bottom. It has two spade connectors
2) Then there is part #9 the "Dryer Cycling T-stat" that I think is right next to the thermal fuse and it has four (4) spade connectors.
Question: Do I keep the stats in place and run the set up as before (so motor runs) and test across each of those parts? Which spade connectors and what voltages am I looking for? ~110 to 120 Vac??
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 8/16/2007(UTC)
Posts: 3,273
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Disconnect the power to the machine. You only have to disconnect one of the wires from each of the two tstats to check continuity. On the four spade one, it's the two largrt terminals. Read for continuity across the terminals. If there is none, you've found your culprit.
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Rank: Member
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EXCELLENT. Will do that and report back but may not get to it tonight. Not too many other components that it might be I'm guessing
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 8/16/2007(UTC)
Posts: 3,273
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Originally Posted by: Joel Gordes EXCELLENT. Will do that and report back but may not get to it tonight. Not too many other components that it might be I'm guessing Right! And if you find that there is continuity in the tstats, then your timer is the next suspect.
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