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I have no water to the ice tray. I have water to the door and befor I found this site I tested the solenoid for the ice maker with the wireing for the door water. I was able to fill the tray by working the door switch. That tells me that there is no electrical to the icemaker solenoid but that the lines are clear. Is there a way to test that part and how do I go about it? I can see that the ice maker is turning and I am guessing that that is a "harvest" but I have no water. I am tryng to get this correct the first time as I am one of the many who have lost there job due to the cutbacks at GM. I have a lot of tools and would like to test this with my volt meter but do not no what wires to test other the wires at the solenoid with it on min max and wait a cycle to see if it is electrical. Thanks again
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Tested the voltage to the door solenoid and found it to be 2.5 DC volts. Tested at icemaker solenoid and found .5 volts. So does this mean the icemaker is not sending the voltage or the switch is not closeing or opening? Also can some one explain the emmiter and reciver part of the ice maker. Switches are closed and light is on and of about every second or so, is that normal or is that why there is no water but the motor does turn. Thanks.
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Originally Posted by: Gene  Quote:Remove the ice maker front cover and check for 120VAC between "N" & "L" test points. Make sure the test probes are 1/2" in.
If there is 120VAC then using an insulated piece of wire (14 GA), short points "T" & "H" to run the motor. Leave the jumper in for a half of a revolution and remove it. The water valve should be energized in the last half of the revolution. Did you run this test? If you did what was the result? Gene.
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There are no markings on the connectors. So I need to know what are the wire colors for each terminal. I take it you want to back probe the terminals correct?
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I looked futher and under the motor cover I found the test points. I have 1/2 volt ac. Tryed it with the door switch closed and closed the door on the beam and same results 1/2 volt ac. Now what?
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If the reading between the "L" & "N" test points is 0.5 volts then how the motor did turn? Can you repeat the test and make sure the test probes are at least 1/2" into the test points.
Gene.
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retested with a 14g wire stripped 1" and inserted into ports. .5 volts. Tested meter in wall outlet and it is working,120vac at the wall. I do not know how the motor is turning but at the diffrent times I look at it the fingers are at diffrent location. Even had the turn while checking for voltage. Is there another way to test at the wireing coneector and if so what wires are they? I call it FM when electrical does strange stuff. Thanks again. By the way tested with 2 meters both show the same and at the outlet in the wall both show the same,my meters are working.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Thanks for the help Gene, I did the second test and the light stays on on the sensor. I an trying to learn this so I also closed the switch for the light on the top of the freezer and the light is off. I then blocked the beam and the light is still off. I am trying to understand how this test is valid with out haveing the upper switch or the light switch closed or open ( not knowing if the switch is normaly closed or open). Looks like I need a new ice maker, but just want to be sure the emmiter and reciever are good as they have been replaced about 4 years ago for the same concern.
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