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Dryer basket turns, but there is no heat. I downloaded the manual and read several VERY HELPFUL blogs. Pulled the dryer cabinet apart and tested. Item numbers are from the Dryer Bulkhead Parts diagram. Also found the wiring diagram in the little plastic pouch inside the cabinet.
Heating element (#14) measures 11.2 ohms; diagram says 10 - 16.7 so I assume that is good.
Both the switches on side of heater casing (#47 and 48) measure Zero Ohms. I'm assuming they are good?
A thermal limiter switch, (#50) measures infinite resistance. Because the machine is cold, should that also be Zero? Is that likely the problem?
Thanks in advance
Ted Hayes
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Zero ohms for #s 47 and 48 means they're open. Replace them. Generally it is recommended that if you replace one thermostat on your dryer, that you go ahead and replace 'em all at the same time.
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Originally Posted by: magician59  Zero ohms for #s 47 and 48 means they're open. Replace them. Generally it is recommended that if you replace one thermostat on your dryer, that you go ahead and replace 'em all at the same time. Maybe I didn't give enough info. I thought zero VOLTAGE across a switch indicated an open switch and that zero (or almost zero) RESISTANCE indicated a closed switch. I was measuring zero resistance, not voltage. So wouldn't that indicate that those two switches are good? And please feel free to get very basic. The F I got in my second semester Freshman Physics course :( (heat, light, sound, electricity) convinced me to change majors - I remember Twinkle Twinkle Little Star, E equals IR and not much more.:p Ted Hayes
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is it making a lot of noise?
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No. When it runs, the basket rotates normally, with no unusual sounds.
There are no noises from the switches or heater element
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Originally Posted by: magician59 Zero ohms for #s 47 and 48 means they're open. Replace them. Generally it is recommended that if you replace one thermostat on your dryer, that you go ahead and replace 'em all at the same time. Don't know what I was thinking...yesterday was a very long day. Sorry for the confusion; zero ohms for a cold thermostat means it is probably good. When current is flowing through them, you will read no volts across them. When they are open (with power applied), you should read voltage across them (This is the same way you test a single pole switch.).
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Thank you kindly,
That's what I was thinking but I've never tried anything other than mechanical fixes to my appliances. This will be first electrical so I appreciate the confirmatin that I'm probably on the right track.
Ted Hayes
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If you're already mechanically inclined, and willing to slow down enough to remain SAFE while you work, you'll find that you can handle the electrical components like any pro. I had an electricity instructor advise me, [COLOR="Red"]"Always touch a wire as if it could potentially be the last wire you'll ever touch"[/COLOR].
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I have a whirlpool dryer that still turns but has no heat. It is about 4 yrs old. There are no circuit breakers blown and the lint duct is clear. When it was new this happened and they replaced a "Hi Limit Safety Kit" under the warranty. Unfortunately, my dryer is in a basement and the lint ducting travels up quite a bit with several turns through concrete wall. The repairman told me that it was likely to happen again. I am very handy with fixing things but have little experience with electrical. The dryer acts like it is working normal, sounds normal and has plenty of air flow out the ducting, just no heat. Any help here?? It is a Model #LEB6300PW1. Thanks!
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Originally Posted by: jltaylor13 I have a whirlpool dryer that still turns but has no heat. It is about 4 yrs old. There are no circuit breakers blown and the lint duct is clear. When it was new this happened and they replaced a "Hi Limit Safety Kit" under the warranty. Unfortunately, my dryer is in a basement and the lint ducting travels up quite a bit with several turns through concrete wall. The repairman told me that it was likely to happen again. I am very handy with fixing things but have little experience with electrical. The dryer acts like it is working normal, sounds normal and has plenty of air flow out the ducting, just no heat. Any help here?? It is a Model #LEB6300PW1. Thanks! There are a few parts in the heating circuit which have to be tested for continuity. They are: 1. The heating element (#17 on the diagram) 2. The thermal cut-off (#9 on the diagram) 3. The hi-limit thermostat (#15 on the diagram) 4. The cycling thermostat (#8 on the diagram) The following article on our forum will explain in detail how to run a continuity test using either an analog meter or a digital meter – How to check continuity with Ohmmeter. Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL LEB6300PW1 | AppliancePartsPros.comGene.
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