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Hi.
What is the problem and complete model number?
Simon.
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Originally Posted by: Simon / APP Team  Hi.
Let's start from the top.
I need you to follow my recommendations, please:
- check for 240VAC at the dryer's conector block
- remove Blue wire from the heat relay of the main control board (make sure it's not touching any metal surfaces)
- turn the dryer on, calling for heat
- use the multimeter to check for 120VAC first from the relay contact to the ground and then from the Blue wire to the ground
- if you have 120VAC from the relay and not from the Blue wire, trace the blue wire down to the thermostats
- check continuity with one wire taking off the thermostat
- if thermostats are fine, the heater is new and all connections are good you need to check if L2 Red wirer from the connector block brings the 120VAC to the motor switch
- everything checks OK - you have a bad motor switch in which case best to replace the motor
- if there is no proper voltage at the heater relay - check the thermistor. At room temp. the resistance should be about 10K ohm.
Simon. I myself am having the same problem with kenmore dryer. All is ok except the things you've just mentioned. Can you please tell me how to check the back contacts so I don't kill myself?
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Hi.
Let's start from the top.
I need you to follow my recommendations, please:
- check for 240VAC at the dryer's conector block
- remove Blue wire from the heat relay of the main control board (make sure it's not touching any metal surfaces)
- turn the dryer on, calling for heat
- use the multimeter to check for 120VAC first from the relay contact to the ground and then from the Blue wire to the ground
- if you have 120VAC from the relay and not from the Blue wire, trace the blue wire down to the thermostats
- check continuity with one wire taken off the thermostat
- if thermostats are fine, the heater is new and all connections are good you need to check if L2 Red wirer from the connector block brings the 120VAC to the motor switch
- everything checks OK - you have a bad motor switch in which case best to replace the motor
- if there is no proper voltage at the heater relay - check the thermistor. At room temp. the resistance should be about 10K ohm.
Simon.
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Originally Posted by: Dale1970 Ok great how do I jump the wires while it's plugged and put together OK I changed the control panel and still no heat :confused:
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Originally Posted by: Simon / APP Team I'm afraid so.
If you got it from the APP you may return it back.
Still do the test I suggested before ordering the new one.
Simon. Ok great how do I jump the wires while it's plugged and put together
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I'm afraid so.
If you got it from the APP you may return it back.
Still do the test I suggested before ordering the new one.
Simon.
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Originally Posted by: Simon / APP Team Hi.
Have you replaced the main control board DC92-00382B?
We replaced the board but the part # was DC92-00384e did we order the wrong one?
The heater relay is incorporated in this control and may be bad. It's #2 with BLK and BLUE wires. See if you can jump this two wires. Be careful - it's 240VAC.
Also check the motor contacts 1-2 (red wires). With the motor running they should be closed.
Simon. We replaced the board but the part # was DC92-00384e did we order the wrong one?
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Hi.
Have you replaced the main control board DC92-00382B?
The heater relay is incorporated in this control and may be bad. It's #2 with BLK and BLUE wires. See if you can jump this two wires. Be careful - it's 240VAC.
Also check the motor contacts 1-2 (red wires). With the motor running they should be closed.
Simon.
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We have replace the heating element, the control panel, checked all four thermostats, the 220 volt coming into the panel, the thermal fuse, but how do we check the plate sensors in this model? Or do you have any ideas what else it could be
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