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Washer filled the other day, then quit. Seems like its probably the timer, however could be a switch (door/lid switch). Could the lid switch go bad and effect the filling cycle even though the lid was closed during filling? Any help would be greatly appreciated, thank you.:)
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455
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Did it fill to the set level and then stop or it did stop during the fill?
What is the end of the model number?
Gene.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 5/6/2010(UTC) Posts: 3
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Thanks for the response Gene. The full model # LAT7304AAE. Its older than I thought, 12yrs+. I think I found the problem, the lid switch seems to be bad. I jumped (bypassed) the lid switch and the washer went into a spin cycle, which it does not do when jumper wire is removed. Now the issue is this, do I need the full block, which includes the fuse block, door switch and the lid switch (part#AP4026359) or can I just do the lid switch (part#AP4023948) which is the switched that I by passed? Thanks for any help offered :)
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455
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If you are sure the problem is just this switch, then replace just the switch. Also it's very likely that it's just out of alignment. It can be adjusted.
Gene.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 5/6/2010(UTC) Posts: 3
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Gene, the block which holds the fuse, door switch, and lid switch....I noticed that it (the entire base) does have the ability to adjust. Is this adjustment just so that the lid switch engages or is there a set specification that this block needs to be set against....Thanks for your help Gene.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
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The lid switch and the "check" switch should work as shown on the wiring diagram: Gene.
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