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Joe / APP Team  
#11 Posted : Wednesday, June 8, 2011 7:51:49 AM(UTC)
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Joe / APP Team

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Originally Posted by: siqon Go to Quoted Post
hi same problem, followed the generous advive but...

open the back and top, started a load but the clunking seen to come from the inside between the tub and the tub plastic "cover" cause nothing touches the structure... is it off balance ? cause the counter weight seen ok?
althought the belt seen tight its runing off (toward inside) but its runing well turning the drum while open ???

help pls! and many thx


Siqon,

Let's start with some basics first,
Check to see if any of the baffles/vanes are loose, they can cause a noise.

Remove the drive belt off the pulleys and check to make sure the pulley bolt is good and tight, make sure the (4) motor mount bolts are tight and the motor does not "shift" or move.

With the belt off, slowly turn the drum pulley, and see if you can duplicate the noise(this would indicate a bad set of tub bearings or loose drive pulley bolt).

When you have the belt off, check it for a burnt or "chafed" spot. and check to see if a wire harness or hose is loose and tapping on the cabinet or tub.

Good Luck,
:) :) :)
siqon  
#12 Posted : Saturday, June 11, 2011 4:35:31 AM(UTC)
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siqon

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Thanks a lot Joe,
I've checked everything and as I said the noises (cluncking) come from inside the drum nothing is loose or touches the frame. it's only making it when at spin and I've watch it run without the top and back covers. it was going on her 13yrs and sadly I think I'll go shopping this morning for a one with a direct drive motor.

thanks again for your time it was really appreciated.
Joe / APP Team  
#13 Posted : Monday, June 13, 2011 6:50:01 AM(UTC)
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Joe / APP Team

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Originally Posted by: siqon Go to Quoted Post
Thanks a lot Joe,
I've checked everything and as I said the noises (cluncking) come from inside the drum nothing is loose or touches the frame. it's only making it when at spin and I've watch it run without the top and back covers. it was going on her 13yrs and sadly I think I'll go shopping this morning for a one with a direct drive motor.

thanks again for your time it was really appreciated.


Sigon,

Sorry to hear that, it might be for the best.

The only other conclusion I can think of, would be a bad tub bearing assembly, allowing the tub to spin off center and "tap" the tub/tub cover.

It was our pleasure to assist.

Good Luck,
:) :) :)
scubadennis  
#14 Posted : Wednesday, June 15, 2011 9:39:51 AM(UTC)
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scubadennis

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Originally Posted by: siqon Go to Quoted Post
hi same problem, followed the generous advive but...
[URL="http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/washer-repair/213059-kenmore-front-loading-washer.html"][/URL]
open the back and top, started a load but the clunking seen to come from the inside between the tub and the tub plastic "cover" cause nothing touches the structure... is it off balance ? cause the counter weight seen ok?
althought the belt seen tight its runing off (toward inside) but its runing well turning the drum while open ???

help pls! and many thx

sounds like the spider arms that hold the rear drum are broken. Big job to take drum out and check, as metal drum is inside the large plastic one. If one of the three arms are broke you will need to replace entire inner metal drum. This problem causes lots of loud clanking noise during spin cycle.
Joe / APP Team  
#15 Posted : Wednesday, June 15, 2011 10:22:19 AM(UTC)
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Joe / APP Team

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Originally Posted by: scubadennis Go to Quoted Post
sounds like the spider arms that hold the rear drum are broken. Big job to take drum out and check, as metal drum is inside the large plastic one. If one of the three arms are broke you will need to replace entire inner metal drum. This problem causes lots of loud clanking noise during spin cycle.


Thanks for the input.

I didn't want to go there, unless we had to...

:cool: :cool: :cool:
David F  
#16 Posted : Wednesday, June 15, 2011 12:20:16 PM(UTC)
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David F

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"I didn't want to go there, unless we had to..."

Joe
I was wondering why you ‘did not go there’. Given the track record of these Frigidaire ‘built’ machines it would be one of the things at the top of my list to check, and so easy to do. Now I know you have far more experience than I with these machines but I am definitely curious as to your reasoning.
In my view once corrosion of the spider starts it is only a mater of time before the seal and then the bearings fail, this is without, what I consider, to be the potential overload conditions that these bearings may reasonably be expected to experience.

Quite obviously look to the outside of the outer drum first but should that reveal nothing untoward suspect the inside of the drum, would be my approach.

Thanks for letting me get my one and a half cents in.
Joe / APP Team  
#17 Posted : Wednesday, June 15, 2011 2:27:16 PM(UTC)
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Joe / APP Team

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Originally Posted by: David F Go to Quoted Post
"I didn't want to go there, unless we had to..."

Joe
I was wondering why you ‘did not go there’. Given the track record of these Frigidaire ‘built’ machines it would be one of the things at the top of my list to check, and so easy to do. Now I know you have far more experience than I with these machines but I am definitely curious as to your reasoning.
In my view once corrosion of the spider starts it is only a mater of time before the seal and then the bearings fail, this is without, what I consider, to be the potential overload conditions that these bearings may reasonably be expected to experience.

Quite obviously look to the outside of the outer drum first but should that reveal nothing untoward suspect the inside of the drum, would be my approach.

Thanks for letting me get my one and a half cents in.


Maybe things have changed,

I never ran across too many broken arms on a spider shaft assembly, (maybe 1 a year), where as bad tub bearings were more common (4 or 5 a year).

We would have gotten to the shaft assembly during the teardown procedure, and could make a determination at that point.

:cool: :cool: :cool:
David F  
#18 Posted : Thursday, June 16, 2011 2:46:49 AM(UTC)
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David F

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Joe,
Thank you very much for taking the time to respond.
“Maybe things have changed”

Maybe they have not! Your observation actually mirrors my own very, very limited personal experience. I have not yet physically seen a fractured spider, one, (our own) quite badly corroded and with failed seal and bearings and, the second, with failing bearings, excess play but no excess noise, a build up of very offensive ‘crud’ in the recesses of the spider and only a few spots of very minor corrosion on the spider.

Of those machines with failed bearings do you know, or can you estimate, what sort of percentage had corrosion of the spider? I believe that the corrosion products from the spider may well be responsible for some of the seal/bearing failures. The ‘white stuff’ that many people seem to take for caked on detergent is, I believe, actually aluminium oxide (Al2O3), the same hard, abrasive material that provides the ‘grit’ for the ‘orange sandpaper’. Get some of that in the water and I do not think the soft lips of the seal stand much of a chance!
I agree with you, once 'tear down' is the last option all will be revealed.
Thank you again.
David
Joe / APP Team  
#19 Posted : Thursday, June 16, 2011 5:26:46 AM(UTC)
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Joe / APP Team

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Originally Posted by: David F Go to Quoted Post
Joe,
Thank you very much for taking the time to respond.
“Maybe things have changed”

Maybe they have not! Your observation actually mirrors my own very, very limited personal experience. I have not yet physically seen a fractured spider, one, (our own) quite badly corroded and with failed seal and bearings and, the second, with failing bearings, excess play but no excess noise, a build up of very offensive ‘crud’ in the recesses of the spider and only a few spots of very minor corrosion on the spider.

Of those machines with failed bearings do you know, or can you estimate, what sort of percentage had corrosion of the spider? I believe that the corrosion products from the spider may well be responsible for some of the seal/bearing failures. The ‘white stuff’ that many people seem to take for caked on detergent is, I believe, actually aluminium oxide (Al2O3), the same hard, abrasive material that provides the ‘grit’ for the ‘orange sandpaper’. Get some of that in the water and I do not think the soft lips of the seal stand much of a chance!
I agree with you, once 'tear down' is the last option all will be revealed.
Thank you again.
David



David,

You're pretty much on "target" on all counts.

There are so many "outside" and variable, problem sources, you can't list them all here. A manufacturer can only try and compensate as best they can.

In the majority of cases, if you read and follow the user's manual reccomendations,suggestions, the consumer will be a lot more satisfied with the results, and the product will last a lot longer.

I can't count how many "customer education" calls or training sessions I've made over the years, but you'd be surprised at what most people don't know or understand.

Thanks,

:cool: :cool: :cool:
scubadennis  
#20 Posted : Thursday, June 16, 2011 6:29:42 PM(UTC)
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scubadennis

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So I just replaced the inner metal drum. Two of the three spider arms on the back were cracked right through. Corrosion from soap. Anyway the bearings seem fine, so I only had to purchase the metal drum (ony way to get the spider arms as they are not sold separately.) Took all day as I had never attempted this before. But, excellent directions can be found at
http://www.applianceaid.com/417_Frigidaire_washer.html
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