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Partial heating
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Model: DS4500EA1WW Brand: GE Age: 5 - 10 years
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bdeboard  
#1 Posted : Tuesday, November 4, 2008 12:46:14 PM(UTC)
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bdeboard

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Our dryer is heating up, but definitely not getting to the proper temperature. I checked the exhaust and it's fine. Climbed up on the roof to check while dryer was running and there is strong airflow to the outside. Still, the air coming out is luke warm at best. I would guess that it's heating up 50-75% of what is should be, resulting in longer drying times. Is it possible the element is going bad but hasn't completely died yet, or does this sound like a thermostat issue? Thanks much - Brett
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abadfish66  
#2 Posted : Tuesday, November 4, 2008 12:55:26 PM(UTC)
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abadfish66

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Your heating element has 2 heating coils, it is possible that 1 of those coils is bad and the other one is working fine, but not getting to temp. if so you need to replace the element.
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bdeboard  
#3 Posted : Tuesday, November 4, 2008 1:23:01 PM(UTC)
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bdeboard

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Ah, that is interesting and certainly seems like a possibility. When I can get to it I will pull the back panel and use my tester to see if that is indeed the case. I take it the coils can be tested separately? Or will I have to rely on a visual inspection? Thanks for your help.
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v2k04  
#4 Posted : Tuesday, November 4, 2008 1:31:24 PM(UTC)
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v2k04

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The dryer comes apart from the front
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bdeboard  
#5 Posted : Tuesday, November 4, 2008 2:23:32 PM(UTC)
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bdeboard

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Thanks, that being the case can I get to the heating elements to test them through the deflector? There are 3 screws to remove but not sure what tool I need to remove them. Any recommendations? The only thing I have ever needed to do to this dryer is replace the slides and that was fairly easy. I can pull it out into the hallway if needed, just trying to find out if that is necessary. Thanks again.
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v2k04  
#6 Posted : Tuesday, November 4, 2008 4:29:18 PM(UTC)
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v2k04

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Remove the two screws that hold the top on either #15 torx or phillips with top off remove the two screws holding the front on set front aside reach your arm through the left side of the drum and feel for the belt and idler push the idler down and feel for the hook, the idler arm will catch on the hook and stay there that will release the tension on the belt and undo the belt then remove the drum the element will be in a round housing and it will be obvious if it is burnt in two. You can buy restring kits that are cheaper than buying the whole elemnt already stringed in the housing just as well replace the rear drum bearing while it's apart
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bdeboard  
#7 Posted : Tuesday, November 4, 2008 6:01:47 PM(UTC)
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bdeboard

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I got the drum out and sure enough the element was shot, lower right hand side just up from the connector. I see that a new element housing is costly so I am interested in the restring kit. It's 'only' 7 years old but with 4 kids it get a lot of use. Not sure how much longer I want to attempt stuff like this;)

Where should I look to find a restring kit and is there anything else I should know about the process? Also, I agree with the idea of replacing the rear drum bearing now. I have heard some odd noises recently and it sounds like that may be the cause? Thanks to you both for the guidance, it is appreciated.

Brett
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v2k04  
#8 Posted : Tuesday, November 4, 2008 9:42:13 PM(UTC)
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v2k04

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I'll see if I can get a part number for you
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magician59  
#9 Posted : Wednesday, November 5, 2008 6:32:32 AM(UTC)
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magician59

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Originally Posted by: v2k04 Go to Quoted Post
push the idler down and feel for the hook, the idler arm will catch on the hook and stay there that will release the tension on the belt and undo the belt then remove t

Wow...I've been so accustomed to removing belts while keeping pressure against idler pulley springs, I didn't know there was a hook on GEs to assist with belt removal/installation. They truly are tech friendly
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abadfish66  
#10 Posted : Wednesday, November 5, 2008 6:40:30 AM(UTC)
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abadfish66

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Here is that restring kit part# you were asking about.....Part Details - GE Heater coil kit, part number: WE11X10007
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