The igniter is wired in series with the gas valve. When the control calls for heat, line voltage is applied to the circuit. As the igniter begins to glow, the current increases. The current flow causes the valve to open when the igniter becomes bright red (almost white). Flat igniters operate from 3.2 to 3.6 amps.

One of two wires going to the igniter (red wire according to the wiring diagram) is "hot" and it comes from the control board through the "C4-P4" connector. If there is nothing wrong with the control board and the connector, then you should read 120VAC between that wire and ground.

The second wire going to the igniter (red wire too by the wiring diagram) is "neutral" and it comes though the gas valve from the terminal block. "Neutral" from the terminal block to the gas valve connected by the white wire.

Most common cause of such problem is a bad igniter (about 85%). Chance for a bad control board is about 12% to 14% and the rest (about 1%) is a bad gas valve. The gas valve can be tested by measuring resistance across the two terminals, Bake in this case.

Next step I would recommend now is to track both igniter wires to their ends. Sounds like there is lost connection between the control board and the igniter.

Gene.

Hi again Gene,

ok, the red wire does indeed have 120VAC when upper bake is called for. And I've found the bake igniter under the bottom of the upper oven, and, as I'm sure you know, it looks exactly like the broil igniter for the upper oven. So my plan is to use the old broil igniter that I replaced as the new bake igniter because I did not have to replace the broil igniter after all. It seems I've learned that an igniter is an igniter, be it used for bake or broil.

Now, I have the back of the oven off and can see where the red wires connect to the white wires and go into the upper oven to the bake igniter. It looks like I'll have to remove the 'second' back of the oven also and get some ceramic wire nuts because I'll have to clip off the harness where the red wires meet the white wires.

Do you see any problems with this approach?

thanks again
Kyle

Kyle - were you able to figure out what it was? I replaced oven sensor, ignitor and control board and it still won't heat up.

My upper oven isn’t working either. The igniter works. Low gas is the problem.