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Whirlpool oven won't light

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I have a Whirlpool Accubake oven (SF362LXSS0) that doesn't seem to be consistently turning on, and the problem's getting worse

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Old 05-19-2011, 12:30 AM
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Default Whirlpool oven won't light
Model Number: SF362LXSS0   Brand: Whirlpool   Age: 1 - 5 years   

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I have a Whirlpool Accubake oven (SF362LXSS0) that doesn't seem to be consistently turning on, and the problem's getting worse and worse. If I try to turn it on to bake, I hear several clicks, but not that "gas oven turning on" sound and no heat comes out (but a slight smell of gas is emitted.) In recent experience, however, I recall that the broiler does work.

I read around on the forums and checked the resistance of the solenoids; it's about 196-205 Ohms for each connection. I also took off the lower panel and was able to verify the spark on the igniter.

Does anyone have any other ideas or suggestions for diagnostics before I start throwing parts and money I've not got at this thing?


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 05-19-2011, 12:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burtonsimmons View Post
...I read around on the forums and checked the resistance of the solenoids; it's about 196-205 Ohms for each connection...
Such result looks suspicious to me because the normal reading suppose to be about 216 Ohms. I would recommend to replace the gas valve/regulator first. There is nothing to loose for you because you can return it to Appliance Parts Pros if it would not fix the problem.

- The gas valve/regulator Part number: AP3866825

Part number: AP3866825



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Old 05-20-2011, 12:30 PM
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Thank you! I guess that's the direction I'm heading it. I figured the resistance reading was in the acceptable range (no pun intended) especially since it was consistent between the two, but I guess it could be the common lead there.
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Old 05-20-2011, 03:54 PM
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You are welcome. Keep us posted.

Gene.
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Old 05-20-2011, 04:33 PM
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Default similar problem with a twist

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gene View Post
You are welcome. Keep us posted.

Gene.
I was having a similar problem. I found another thread on here telling how to check the control panel and the gas valve solenoids months ago and was finally able do the checks tonight when the over wouldn't cut on. Due to convenience, I decided to check the terminal resistance 1st. I checked both to common and had 216 to 220 on both. When i stood up, the control panel had gone completely black (doh!). I unplugged the oven for a couple minutes and plugged it back in and still no sign of life!
Any ideas?

The stove will release gas, but will not ignite either.

My model is GS395LEGQ5

Last edited by PBrian : 05-20-2011 at 04:55 PM.
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Old 05-20-2011, 05:48 PM
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Brian,

The problem you described looks very different.

Open the control panel from the back and check the incoming power to the control board by measuring the voltage between the wires to the terminals P4-1 & P4-3. If the reading is correct (about 120 VAC), replace the control board.

If you need the correct part number for the control board, post the color of the face panel.

Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL GS395LEGQ5 GAS RANGE | AppliancePartsPros.com

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Old 05-20-2011, 07:01 PM
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Ok, i fixed that problem. My GFCI plug in my kitchen was tripped so there was no power at the wall. When i was checking the resistance at the gas valve, i must have hit some wires or something. So, the oven display is working again and the oven ignites for now...

Let me describe my original intermittent problem: When turning on the oven, we would set the temp and press Start. We always hear the controller click. When it works, we then hear the gas solenoid or some second click, gas release, and then the igniter. When it doesn't, we never hear the 2nd click.
Sometimes we could leave everything on and about 10-20 minutes later it would continue the cycle and ignite.
When we have this problem, the broiler does not work either.

I found another thread months ago and printed out your instructions to check the P24 terminal to ground and then the bake/broil solenoids. I had it in the over drawer until the oven stopped working and i had the time to trouble shoot it.

Since the bake/broil solenoids check fine tonight, should i check the P24 terminal the next time it stops working or should i do something else.
Its looking like it might be the control panel...$275 or a new oven for not much more!

Thanks for your help.
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Old 05-20-2011, 07:14 PM
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Quote:
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...should i check the P24 terminal the next time it stops working...
Yes, thats right. Also make sure the spark module is properly grounded through its ground terminal.

Gene.
P.S. It's better not to use GFCI for large appliances.
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Old 05-21-2011, 12:52 PM
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[quote=Gene;437109]Yes, thats right. Also make sure the spark module is properly grounded through its ground terminal.

Not working again today. I checked the P24 terminal and it has 120V to ground.
I rechecked the valve terminals to common and both had 209 ohms.
This seems pretty pretty close to 216. Do you think this is it or should I move on to another check and what would that be?
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Old 05-21-2011, 02:27 PM
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Brian,

Can you post detailed description on what is going on today?

Gene.
P.S. I'm not sure if I can reply today because I'm leaving for this weekend.
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