Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/22/2007(UTC) Posts: 4
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I've replaced the igniter and the thermostat ('heat control' on the diagram). After installing the thermostat I tried to light the oven but no luck. It was then I found out the "ON" light was burned out too. I haven't replaced that yet.
The fuse tests good with an ohmmeter.
From the wiring diagram (35-069667-04-0) it looks like the only thing left is the valve. If I remember correctly, when I would turn on the oven before there was a click. There is no click now so maybe the valve is bad.
The clock works as does the oven light. From the wiring diagram these are separately wired between the hot and neutral.
With the other components, from the hot, power goes to a fuse then to the heat control. From there it splits to the "ON" light then to the neutral and to the valve to the igniter and to the neutral. It looks pretty straightforward.
Before I order the valve and the "ON" light, is there any other possibility I could have missed?
Thanks, Julie
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
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Julie, There are two small dials on the clock, one says "start" and another one says "stop".
The arrow on the "start" dial should show the same time which is shown on the clock. If it does not, push and turn the knob to move the arrow.
Make sure the knob for the 'start' dial is pushed in while the knob for the "stop" dial is popped out.
The oven should heat and the "ON" light should be on as well.
Gene.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/22/2007(UTC) Posts: 4
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Thanks Gene but that's not the problem. Something else is causing the problem. I'm suspecting the valve but it could be something else. Besides, the oven "ON" light won't work because it's burned out.
After 23 years it's probably time to replace it.
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