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Joined: 6/4/2011(UTC) Posts: 4
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I have a dryer that will overheat (trip the fuse - NO POWER TO THE DRYER UNTIL RESETABLE FUSE RESETS) about 2-5 mins into a cycle. Dryer light will reappear after it cools.
This is what I have done to troubleshoot: Cleaned all vents inside and outside the dryer Replaced thermostat cycling fuse - located on the exhaust Checked heating element (11.5 Ohm resistence/~30K to ground) Cleaned lint screen door/re-sealed door Installed new drum seals
Observations: Strong airflow outside the final vent Will cycle properly with NO clothes/load Temperature in the vent Regular setting: 208 - 222F Med Setting: 186 - 200F Low Setting: Unsure - Saw it at both 107/188F (Load of clothes will overheat at this setting)
I have chased my tail to ensure everything is sealed to pull air over the element, through the drum, and into the fan - eliminate any short circuiting issues since it seems to cycle ok.
The metal below the door - suction to the fan - is extremely hot - would not want any children near the dryer (which would seem to indicate proper airflow through the drum??)
This dryer has worked over 3 years with no problems until now. We cleaned a tremendous amount of lint in the house vents.
How can I get the thermostat to run at a lower temp...this seems too hot.
Thanks.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 6/4/2011(UTC) Posts: 4
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Invested in a non-contact infraread thermometer.
Temp readings at the discharge of the dryer: 130 - 195F on all heat settings (Low, Medium, and High).
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 6/4/2011(UTC) Posts: 4
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The element will not ground (measures open) with no leads attached.
However, I traced a lead from the timer that feeds the heat selector switch, thermostat control, and the element. When the timer is off, the measurement to ground is open. When the timer is on, the ohm mesurement to ground is 46.0 (meter set to 200).
Is this normal to get a resistance to ground reading from the timer switch feeding the element?
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 6/4/2011(UTC) Posts: 4
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For those curious as to the fix, a gas high limit switch was installed (trips at 240F) instead of the electric high limit switch (trips at 258F).
Simple fix...but a lot of time and non-essential parts bought.
As far as the temp readings, I figure the infrared sensor is reading the actual air temp instead of the metal duct, which would explain why the temp readings would not vary on different heat settings.
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