Brand:WHIRLPOOL
Model Number:WSR57 R18 DM05
Main Symptom: not cooling
What happens & when:recently replaced the inverter no coolant leak compressor has been replaced Compressor is not turning on even though it has been replaced fan works
Error Code (if any):
Parts or tests already tried: inverter and compressor
Photos / video link:
Since the compressor and inverter have both already been replaced, I would stop replacing parts and verify what the sealed system is actually doing.
For the Whirlpool WSR57R18DM05, start here:
Is the compressor actually running? Put your hand on it. You should feel a steady vibration/hum. If the compressor isn’t running, the next step is checking the inverter’s supply and control signal—not the thermistor or refrigerant charge.
If the compressor runs continuously but it doesn’t cool, remove the inside rear freezer/refrigerator panel and look at the evaporator after it has run for about 15–20 minutes. A properly operating sealed system should develop a fairly even frost pattern across most of the evaporator.
If you get frost only on the first few inches of tubing, or essentially no frost even though the compressor is running, you still have a sealed-system problem. Even with no visible refrigerant leak, possibilities include an incorrect charge, restriction, remaining leak, or a problem with the compressor installation.
If the evaporator develops a good full frost pattern, then the compressor/refrigerant system is probably doing its job. At that point check the evaporator fan and thermistors and make sure air is actually circulating through the cabinet.
Because both the inverter and compressor are new, the evaporator frost pattern is the quickest test I’d do next.
If you can send me a photo of the evaporator after 15–20 minutes of compressor operation, I can usually tell quite a bit from the frost pattern alone.
Can you tell me how to check the inverter’s supply and control signal? I really appreciate your input!
Absolutely. Since the compressor and inverter have already been replaced, checking what is actually reaching the inverter is a good next step.
Live voltage warning: The supply-voltage test is performed with the refrigerator powered and involves 120 VAC. If you’re not comfortable probing a live connector, don’t attempt that portion.
Locate the inverter mounted at the compressor. You should have a larger power connector and a smaller control/signal connector.
With the unit plugged in and calling for cooling:
If you have roughly 120 VAC but the compressor isn’t running, move on to the control-signal check.
If you don’t have 120 VAC, the problem is upstream of the inverter—wiring, connection, or control-board side of the circuit.
Don’t assume the small control wires should have 120 VAC. This is a low-voltage communication/control circuit, and the exact reading depends on how Whirlpool drives this particular inverter.
I would not unplug the small connector and start checking resistance or applying voltage to it. Instead, leave it connected and back-probe it while the refrigerator is calling for cooling.
If your meter has DC volts, start there and tell me exactly what voltage you get across the two small control wires. If the reading is unstable or very low, also check it on AC volts and give me that reading.
If you have 120 VAC supply + a control signal reaching the inverter, yet the compressor doesn’t run, I’d concentrate on the inverter/compressor circuit even though those parts are new.
If you have 120 VAC but no control signal, I’d work backward toward the main control, thermistor inputs, and wiring.
If the compressor is running, however, I wouldn’t spend much time chasing the inverter signal. I’d go directly to the evaporator and check the frost pattern after about 15–20 minutes of continuous compressor operation. That will tell us whether we’re dealing with an airflow/control problem or whether the sealed system still isn’t producing refrigeration.
Send me the AC voltage at the inverter’s large connector and the DC/AC readings from the small connector, and we can go from there.