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Brand: Whirlpool
Model Number: WRT316SFDM01
Main Symptom: Not Cooling
What happens & when: Both Freezer and Refrig not cooling.
Error Code (if any): None
Parts or tests already tried: Replaced start relay
Photos / video link:
I have a Whirlpool refrigerator model WRT316SFDM01 which is not cooling. I have replaced the start relay which rattled. The replacement also rattles but fails to keep the compressor running. It starts and the shuts down after approx 30 seconds. The compressor is not hot. Both condensor and evap fans are running and there is no frozen coils. I’ve attempted to locate the thermistor but I’m unable to locate.
On the Whirlpool WRT316SFDM01, I would not chase a thermistor yet. This model uses a mechanical temperature-control thermostat, WPW10511937, for normal temperature control. Coast Parts
The important clue is that the compressor actually starts, runs about 30 seconds, then shuts off, while both fans continue running. That points much more strongly toward the compressor/start circuit than a temperature-control problem.
The compressor start components on this model are:
Also, don’t put much weight on the new start device rattling. A rattle by itself isn’t a reliable test of this type of start device.
The quickest useful test now is at the compressor terminals. Unplug the refrigerator, remove the start device, and you’ll see the three compressor pins. Measure resistance between all three combinations:
Pin 1 → Pin 2
Pin 1 → Pin 3
Pin 2 → Pin 3
You should get resistance on all three combinations. The two lower readings added together should approximately equal the highest reading.
Then check each individual compressor pin to the bare metal compressor shell. You should get OL/infinite resistance on all three. If any compressor terminal has continuity to the compressor shell, the compressor is electrically shorted and is bad.
When it shuts off after approximately 30 seconds, listen right at the compressor/start device.
If you hear a distinct click, and then several minutes later another click followed by another attempt to start, the compressor overload is opening. With a new correct start device installed, that usually leaves:
1. A bad run capacitor, or
2. A compressor that is mechanically tight/locked or drawing excessive amperage.
The fact that the compressor isn’t hot doesn’t rule this out. If it’s only running 20–30 seconds before the overload opens, it may not have had enough time for the compressor shell to become noticeably hot.
If you have a clamp amp meter, an amp reading on the compressor common wire during those 30 seconds would be especially helpful. A compressor that shoots to a high current and then trips the overload strongly indicates a compressor problem.
Since the evaporator and condenser fans are operating and the compressor is being commanded on, I would not replace the thermostat or go looking for a thermistor at this point. The thermostat is clearly calling for cooling if the compressor is being energized.
If you give me the three resistance readings between the compressor pins (for example, 3.2Ω, 5.1Ω, 8.3Ω), I can tell you whether the compressor windings look normal before you buy anything else.
OK, my meter is dead. But one more piece of info, when I put the original relay back in the compressor starts the runs and gets warm, but still fails to cool either frig/frez.
I do have continuity between all 3 terminals but no continuity with ground.
That changes the diagnosis quite a bit. If the original start device lets the compressor continue running and the compressor gets warm, but neither section gets cold, I would put the thermistor/thermostat aside for now.
With the compressor running continuously and both fans running, check the evaporator after the refrigerator has been running about 15–20 minutes. Remove the freezer’s inside rear panel and look at the evaporator tubing.
You should see a light, fairly even frost pattern across most of the evaporator. Here’s what the pattern tells us:
Given what you’ve described—compressor running and warming up, both fans running, but no cooling and no frozen evaporator coils—I’m now suspicious of a sealed-system/compressor problem rather than an electrical control problem.
One other important point: since the new start device causes the compressor to shut down after ~30 seconds but the old one keeps it running, I wouldn’t assume the new start device is correct just because it was listed for the refrigerator. There may be an issue with that replacement part or its installation.
For now, put the original device back on and let it run 15–20 minutes, then look at the evaporator. If you can send me a photo of the evaporator while the compressor is running, I can usually tell from the frost pattern what direction to go next.
Good—that tells us the compressor windings are not open and not shorted to ground, which is a positive sign. However, continuity alone can’t tell us whether the compressor is actually pumping refrigerant properly.
The original start device is the one I’d use for testing right now, since the compressor stays running with it.
Let it run for about 15–20 minutes, then check the evaporator coil behind the freezer’s rear inside panel. The frost pattern is now the quickest diagnostic:
Also feel the two refrigerant lines at the compressor. Normally, while it’s running, the small discharge line should become noticeably warm/hot, while the suction/return line should eventually become cool.
Based on everything you’ve found so far, I would not replace a thermistor or thermostat. The next thing we need is that evaporator frost pattern. If you can post a picture after it has run 15–20 minutes, that should narrow this down considerably.
OK, I haven’t taken a picture because there is no change. No frost pattern, the compressor is slightly warm and fluid sound is heard in freezer.
I’m really starting to suspect a sealed system issue
Is there a way to check if the compressor is pumping?
Not without specialized equipment. On this one you are probably going to need to call a technician
OK, 2 last questions. How much do you estimate the fix and can you recommend a manufacturer for a replacement for a RV refrig?
Hard to estimate a fix without knowing the exact issue and we’re not allowed to recommend brands
Applying the 50% rule, you solved my dilemma. Cheaper to buy new. Nice work and thank you.