Brand: whirlpool Model Number: wrf736sdam11 Main Symptom: Ice maker not making ice properly What happens & when: ice maker failed ice maker motor test. Replaced ice maker. Ice maker made ice for a few hours and then stopped small ice cubes collected between the ice maker and the ice tray and quits making ice. Took apart and found nothing wrong. Started making ice agian for a few days and started doing the same thing need help figuring this out
Error Code (if any): none
Parts or tests already tried: passes 56, 57, & 59 test
Photos / video link:
Since you have replaced the icemaker and are still getting the same issue I believe it may be something else causing your issue. I’d start by investigating the in coming water supply pressure. Remove the water line from the fridge and flush the line out for a minute or two, while cycling the cutoff valve opened or closed. Sometimes debris can get stuck against the valve restricting flow. Observe if any debris flushes thru the line also when you disconnected the line from the valves on the fridge did any debris come out. Once you have established good flow reattach the line to the inlet valve. Then remove the water line from the valve to the icemaker and energize the valve by putting the ice maker into manual fill mode. Verify constant steady flow. If the flow is inconsistent or weak the valves ( Whirlpool W10865826 Refrigerator Water Inlet Valve | Genuine OEM Part ) need to be replaced. If everything tests good reconnect everything and let the icemaker run a few cycles to see how it does
Sorry for taking so long to respond the water inlet valve on the back of the fridge is less than a year old. I ran a 45 test with the line disconnected from the the valve in the overhead of the fridge that supplies water to the icemaker. Pressure is good as as it hit the window 8 feet away the first time. But I am only getting 2 ounce when I run it. Google says it should be 3 to 5 oz. Does that still lead back to the water inlet on the back of the fridge or the valve in the overhead?