Brand:whirlpool Model Number:WRF535SWHZ05 Main Symptom:icemaker doesnt work What happens & when:no ice
Error Code (if any):
Parts or tests already tried:i replaced the water inlet valve (robertshaw K-78090). The original icemaker solenoid didnlt have continuity. The new valve does have continuity. The water dispenser inside the frig does dispense water. After installing the new valve, the icemaker was going through its cycle but now it isn’t. I tried using a jumper on the T&H terminals and no movement at all. So, now i don’t know if the problem is the water valve, the icemaker or something else.
Photos / video link:
Thanks for the detailed information! You’ve already done some good troubleshooting on your Whirlpool WRF535SWHZ05, and the fact that the ice maker was cycling after you replaced the water inlet valve but has now stopped is an important clue.
I wouldn’t replace the ice maker just yet. Since jumping the T and H terminals no longer starts a harvest cycle, we need to determine whether the ice maker is receiving power or whether its internal motor or control mechanism has failed.
Also, the fact that your refrigerator’s water dispenser works tells us water is reaching the refrigerator, but it doesn’t necessarily confirm that the ice maker’s side of the water valve is working.
Here’s what I’d check next
1. Check the freezer temperature. The freezer should ideally be around 0°F. Many ice makers won’t initiate an automatic harvest unless the ice maker mold gets cold enough, typically around 15°F or lower.
2. Check the ice maker’s shutoff arm. Make sure it’s in the ON position and isn’t stuck or being held up.
3. Check for power at the ice maker. If your ice maker has the standard modular test terminals marked L, N, T, and H, you can check for approximately 120 VAC between L and N. This is a live-voltage test, so only attempt it if you’re comfortable working around electricity. Keep your probes away from adjacent terminals and grounded metal.
4. Check the T and H test. If you have approximately 120 VAC between L and N, but jumping T and H doesn’t start the motor, that points more toward an ice maker problem than a water inlet valve problem. The jumper must make proper contact, and the ice maker must be powered. Don’t leave the jumper installed.
If there’s no voltage between L and N, we need to investigate the power supply, wiring, and any switches in that circuit before replacing the ice maker.
One important detail for your model
On the WRF535SWHZ series, the freezer door switch can interrupt power to the ice maker when the door is open. Make sure you’re holding the freezer door switch closed during both tests. Otherwise, a perfectly good ice maker may appear dead.
iFixit+1
For the modular ice maker, the T-H jumper normally starts the harvest cycle. Remove it after about three seconds once movement begins. Never jumper L and N together.
Manuals+
What I suspect
Since the ice maker initially cycled after the valve replacement and now won’t respond, I’d focus on the freezer door switch, power supply to the ice maker, and ice maker assembly itself. The replacement water valve is less likely to explain why the harvest motor won’t run.
Two questions for you
When you jumped T and H, were you holding the freezer door switch closed?
Do you have a multimeter available to check for approximately 120 VAC between L and N?
Those two answers will help us narrow this down without spending money on another part unnecessarily.