I have searched thru the other “overflow” issues in the database and cannot find one exactly like mine. So here goes.
set the water level to anything (small-super)
set for a regular wash cycle
pull the knob and the tub fills to approx whatever level you set it to and the agitator starts up BUT the water does not stop filling. Will continue until it overflows and never stop. (Initially assumed pressure switch was fine since agitator starts)
I checked the hose to the pressure switch and it is fine. I attach a separate hose to the pressure switch and blow into it (constant pressure). The agitator starts up but water keeps flowing… so I replaced the pressure switch anyway and it still overflows
I unpluged the washer while filling and the water stops. Plug it back in and water begins filling again and doesnt stop.
I replaced the water inlet valve anyway and it still overflows.
Started the washer and turn the water valves off at the wall after it fills up. Then open the valves when it goes into spin. The water doesnt come on in spin BUT when it gets to the rinse cycle it overflows again.
I will check that but expected if it was timer, it would not overflow in both fill and rinse. will test Permanent Press and respond in an hour or so.
Thanks
I didn’t catch that it overflows also in rinse. More likely , then, to be a bad pressure switch, or air is somehow getting into the system somewhere between the air dome and the pressure switch.
Wanted to clarify the pressure switch replacement. I hooked a seperate hose to the switch and blew into the hose, when the washer is filling, this causes the agitator to start but does not stop the water from filling up. if I stop blowing(eliminate the presessure) the agitator stops.
Did this thing ever run correctly or did you buy it used and it has never worked?
Your description does indicate that the water inlet valve is OK.
Looking at the wiring diagram, it definitely shows that when the water level switch trips the water valve should disconnect.
You have replaced the water level switch and getting a replacement that has the same fault as the original is extremely low. I mean the switch does detect the level because agitation starts so the switch trips the Normally Open contacts (closes them) but still keeps the Normally Closed contacts closed, it would have to do this to give you the symptoms you have. Never seen this in 25 years.
Only explanation that makes sense is the unit is miswired or there is a short between two wires. The valve must be getting power from a line other than just the one coming from the level switch.
Of course this assumes that the wiring diagram is correct.
Thanks for all the replies. I have the wiring diagram you referenced. We bought it new 5 or so years back. There is only one plug to disconnect when taking the overall shell off and it cannot be reversed. Only one connector on the pressure switch, again cannot be reversed. Could still be a short. I didnt check for cut/damaged wires. The pressure switch wires appear to go to the timer before routing to the water valve so the next thing to do is pull out the multi meter and see what is going where…except we have been without a washer for over 2 weeks, waiting on service folks that never showed up(that is why I started troubleshooting myself) to parts that I ordered myself. Just was not willing to part with another $65 on the timer($130 total) when the rest of it could go out anytime as well…so we just gave up and I bought a new washer yesterday.
I greatly appreciate all of the responses. I am glad to see this was not an easy fix for all the time spent.
Thanks again