Hey all - I’ve got a Whirlpool top‑loader that drains/pumps but won’t spin. I hear the pump kick on, water leaves, and then… nothing. No grinding, no crazy banging. Clothes are coming out soaked.
What I already tried: unplugged it for a few minutes, checked the drain hose, ran Drain & Spin, leveled the feet. Same behavior.
I’m comfortable with basic tools. Before I start throwing parts at it, what would you check first for this “drains but no spin” thing? Thanks!
Hey Casey. Let’s keep this simple and fix the obvious before we crawl under anything.
The 90‑second path:
Watch the lid lock. On Drain & Spin, does the Lid Lock light come on and do you hear a clean click? No lock = no spin.
Peek under the machine (rear panel or tilt carefully): the little shift actuator moves you from wash to spin. If it’s cracked, loose, or its splutch cam is worn, you’ll drain and never spin.
Lift the wash plate (center cap off) and check the drive hub. If those plastic splines are stripped, the motor “spins” but the basket just chills.
Belt/pulley: a loose belt or pulley nut will stall the ramp into spin. Quick visual tells you a lot.
After any of the above, run the unit’s quick calibration. It’s the secret handshake that tells the control “hey, parts changed.”
Most Whirlpool top‑load HE/VMW machines have a built‑in service mode (the knob‑twist routine on the console). It lets you read stored codes like F5E2/E3 (lid lock), F7E5 (shifter), F7E1/E7 (speed sense/drive). Don’t overthink them - they’re just breadcrumbs.
After replacing an actuator or hub, run the calibration cycle in that same service mode. It takes a couple of minutes and saves you a head‑scratch later.
If your Whirlpool is a front‑loader and it drains but won’t spin:
• Make sure the door lock actually locks.
• Check for slow drain (clogged filter/pump) — the machine won’t spin if it still “thinks” there’s water in the tub.
• Inspect the drive belt on the back of the tub.