Hey all - I’ve got a Whirlpool top‑loader that drains/pumps but won’t spin. I hear the pump kick on, water leaves, and then… nothing. No grinding, no crazy banging. Clothes are coming out soaked.
What I already tried: unplugged it for a few minutes, checked the drain hose, ran Drain & Spin, leveled the feet. Same behavior.
I’m comfortable with basic tools. Before I start throwing parts at it, what would you check first for this “drains but no spin” thing? Thanks!
Hey Casey. Let’s keep this simple and fix the obvious before we crawl under anything.
The 90‑second path:
Watch the lid lock. On Drain & Spin, does the Lid Lock light come on and do you hear a clean click? No lock = no spin.
Peek under the machine (rear panel or tilt carefully): the little shift actuator moves you from wash to spin. If it’s cracked, loose, or its splutch cam is worn, you’ll drain and never spin.
Lift the wash plate (center cap off) and check the drive hub. If those plastic splines are stripped, the motor “spins” but the basket just chills.
Belt/pulley: a loose belt or pulley nut will stall the ramp into spin. Quick visual tells you a lot.
After any of the above, run the unit’s quick calibration. It’s the secret handshake that tells the control “hey, parts changed.”
If you want a refresher before you dive in, this short guide hits the common spin failures: Washer won’t spin: common causes
Most Whirlpool top‑load HE/VMW machines have a built‑in service mode (the knob‑twist routine on the console). It lets you read stored codes like F5E2/E3 (lid lock), F7E5 (shifter), F7E1/E7 (speed sense/drive). Don’t overthink them - they’re just breadcrumbs.
After replacing an actuator or hub, run the calibration cycle in that same service mode. It takes a couple of minutes and saves you a head‑scratch later.
If your Whirlpool is a front‑loader and it drains but won’t spin:
• Make sure the door lock actually locks.
• Check for slow drain (clogged filter/pump) — the machine won’t spin if it still “thinks” there’s water in the tub.
• Inspect the drive belt on the back of the tub.
A quick primer with video: Top spin problems & fixes.
Parts that commonly fix “drains but no spin” on Whirlpool top‑load HE (check by model)
Search by exact model for guaranteed fit: Look up my model → then filter parts.
Shift actuator (can’t shift to spin / throws F7E5): W10913953
Lid lock (if no lock/no click): W11307244
Splutch (drive clutch) kit (worn cam/slips): W10721967
Drive hub kit (basket splines stripped): W10528947
Not sure of your exact model? Here’s the quick visual guide: Find your model number
Quick checklist you can follow in 15–30 minutes
Run Drain & Spin empty → lock light + click?
Tip back or remove rear panel → actuator plugged in, housing intact, splutch not chewed up?
Pull wash plate (center cap + bolt) → inspect drive hub splines.
Glance at belt & pulley under the tub.
Make a change? Calibrate, then test with a small load.
Hope this helps.
Hey Casey, there may be several items to check out. Without spinning the basket other than standing water generally will not be removed. In older machines there is a two-speed motor, and the high speed needs to start in order for residual water to be removed from the clothes. Motor conditions to check would be burnt/shorted secondary windings, failed high speed starter (capacitor), or failed relay for the high speed starter.
If the motor kicks into “second gear” and the basket remains idle, you may have a failed clutch or clutch control. Hope this helps.