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Brand:Whirlpool Model Number:WTW4816FW3 Main Symptom: not draining What happens & when: The pump was running constantly. I hired a tech to looka t it and he said it needs a new control board. I bought the board and replaced it. I went throughthe diagnostic by turning the dial 360 deg ccw then three clicks right one click left, one click right. the lights started flashing so I though i was in diagnostic mode, then I did four clicks right and waited. after a few minutes the light went of and I got no diagnostic code. So, I tried to run a gentle low soil quick wash and the machine filled after a long wait, then the ‘wash’ light clicked on and then nothing…
So now I have a tub full of water and nothing happens.
Error Code (if any):
Parts or tests already tried:
Photos / video link:
The next test is to enter Service Diagnostics and manually command the drain pump ON. This confirms whether the control board is attempting to operate the pump.
Enter Service Diagnostics
Reset: Turn the control dial one full rotation (360°) counterclockwise.
The Sequence: Quickly (within 6 seconds), turn the dial 3 clicks clockwise (to the right), 1 click counterclockwise (to the left), and 1 click clockwise.
Confirmation: If successful, all the status lights on the console will blink simultaneously.
Enter Manual Test Mode
Rotate knob till done and spin lights are on
Press START
Command the Drain Pump
Rotate till rinse, spin and done illuminate.
Press START to turn the pump ON.
Press START again to turn it OFF.
Results
Pump runs and drains strongly
Drain pump is operating normally.
Pump hums but little or no water drains
Inspect the drain pump and drain system for blockages.
Pump is completely silent
Continue to the voltage test below.
Test for 120 VAC at the Drain Pump
If the pump does not operate during Manual Test Mode, determine whether the control board is supplying power.
Access the Control Board
Unplug the washer.
Remove the wiring cover screw.
Remove the five rear console screws. The 2 long er screws have to go back into the top of the rear console cover
Remove both covers.
To release the top panel clips, insert a putty knife under the front corner of the control console. Push the knife toward the back of the washer until you feel the spring clip, then gently press in to release it while lifting that side of the console.
Repeat the process on the opposite side. Once both clips are released, carefully tilt the control console back.
If you’re using a metal putty knife, be careful not to scratch the painted finish of the console. Working slowly and placing a piece of masking tape on the edge of the putty knife can help protect the paint
Lift the top panel and pull it forward.
Locate the main control board.
Locate Connector J2
The drain pump connects to J2 (6-pin connector).
Wire colors:
Red
Orange
Black/White
Black/White
Light Blue
Brown
Measure Voltage
Restore power.
Place the washer into Manual Test Mode and command the drain pump ON.
Measure AC voltage between:
Light Blue
Adjacent Black/White
Expected Reading
Approximately 120 VAC
The control board is commanding the pump.
Proceed to:
wiring harness test
drain pump resistance test
0 VAC
The control board is not energizing the pump.
Before replacing the control:
Inspect the wiring.
Check for lid lock or shifter faults.
If those circuits test good, replace the main control board.
Test the Wiring Harness
If 120 VAC is present at the control board but not at the pump:
Unplug the washer.
Disconnect the pump connector.
Tilt the washer back.
Measure continuity from J2 to the drain pump connector.
Each wire should measure:
Less than 1 Ω
Inspect for:
Broken wires
Pinched wires
Loose terminals
Corrosion
Repair as necessary.
Test Drain Pump Resistance
If the wiring checks good:
Disconnect the two-wire pump connector.
Measure resistance across the pump terminals.
Expected Reading
15–30 Ω (typically about 20 Ω)
Pump winding is normal.
OL / Infinite
Pump winding is open.
0–2 Ω
Pump winding is shorted.
Inspect the Pump for Blockages
If the pump hums or drains poorly, inspect the entire drain system before replacing it.
Disconnect Power
Unplug the washer.
Remove as much water as possible using a shop vacuum or container.
Expect some water to spill when the hoses are removed.
Access the Pump
Lean the washer back securely.
The drain pump is mounted underneath near the front.
Remove the Hoses
Compress the spring clamps.
Twist and remove both hoses.
Catch any remaining water.
Inspect
Check:
Pump inlet
Pump outlet
Tub-to-pump hose
Drain hose
Pump impeller
Outer tub outlet
Common obstructions include:
Coins
Bobby pins
Toothpicks
Socks
Washcloths
Rubber bands
Lint
The impeller should rotate with slight magnetic resistance.
Replace the pump if the impeller is:
Loose
Broken
Jammed
Missing blades
Inspect the Drain Hose
Disconnect the hose from the standpipe.
Verify it is clear.
Inspect for:
Kinks
Crushed sections
Lint buildup
Blockages
Reconnect everything and run another Manual Drain Pump test.
Diagnosis Summary
Test Result
Diagnosis
Pump drains normally
Drain system operating correctly
Pump hums or rattles
Inspect for blockage or damaged impeller
Weak water flow
Restriction in drain system or worn impeller
120 VAC at control board and pump, pump measures 15–30 Ω but won’t run
Replace drain pump
120 VAC at control board but not at pump
Repair wiring harness or connectors
No 120 VAC at control board during drain command
Verify lid lock and shifter circuits, then replace the main control board if they test good
Pump measures OL or 0–2 Ω
Replace drain pump
REPAIR
Part Removal
If testing has confirmed the drain pump is defective, or you’ve found a damaged impeller that cannot be repaired, here’s how to replace the drain pump on your Maytag washer.
Tools Needed
1/4" nut driver
Slip-joint pliers
Flat-blade screwdriver
Towels or shallow drain pan
Work gloves
Wet/dry shop vac or small bucket
RTV sealant(optional)
1. Disconnect Power
Unplug the washer from the outlet.
Turn off both water supply valves if you’ll be moving the washer.
Disconnect hoses as you’ll need to either tilt the washer back or lay it down to access the pump
2. Remove Remaining Water
If the tub still contains water, remove as much as possible using a wet/dry vacuum, or scoop it out with a cup or small container. Expect some water to spill when the hoses are removed.
3. Access the Drain Pump
The drain pump is mounted underneath the washer near the front usually on the same side as the drain hose attachment point
Carefully lean the washer back against the wall, or have someone hold it securely while you work.
If you prefer, you can also lay the washer on its side or back to make accessing the drain pump and hoses much easier. Just be sure not to leave it in that position any longer than necessary, as prolonged time on its side or back can place unnecessary stress on the suspension rod springs and other internal components.
If you need to stop before the repair is finished, simply stand the washer back upright until you’re ready to continue. This will help prevent damage to the suspension system.
Placing the front feet on sturdy wood blocks will provide additional working room.
4. Disconnect the Wiring Harness
Locate the drain pump.
Press the locking tab and unplug the electrical connector from the pump.
Inspect the connector for corrosion, loose terminals, or heat damage before installing the new pump.
5. Remove the Drain Hoses
Place towels or a drain pan underneath the pump.
Using slip-joint pliers, compress the spring clamps and slide them back on the hoses.
Twist each hose gently while pulling it off the pump fittings.
Inspect both hoses for coins, socks, lint buildup, or other debris before installing the new pump.
6. Remove the Pump
Remove the three mounting screws securing the pump to the washer base using a 9/16" nut driver.
Pull the pump out of the socket on the bottom of the washer,. Ensure the rubber seal comes off with the pump.
inspect the drain port on the bottom of the washer ensuring there a is no foreign object in the drain and that the sealing surface is clean.
7. Install the New Pump
Position the new pump in place, a small amount of RTV sealant may be used on the sealing surface to help prevent leaks.
Install and tighten the three mounting screws.
Reconnect both drain hoses, making sure they are fully seated and that the spring clamps are returned to their original positions, once again a small amount of RTV can be applied to the sealing surfaces to help ensure there are no leaks.
Reconnect the electrical connector until it clicks into place.
8. Reassemble and Test
Lower the washer back onto the floor.
Reconnect power.
Run a Manual Test of the drain pump
Verify:
The pump starts with no unusual noises. You should hear a steady hum.You may hear a gurgling sound if there is little to no water in the washer
Water drains with a strong, steady flow.
There are no leaks around either hose connection or the pump housing.
If the new pump runs but the washer still will not drain properly, inspect the entire drain system—including the tub-to-pump hose, drain hose, and household standpipe—for restrictions. If the pump does not run at all, verify 120 VAC is present at the pump connector during the drain portion of the cycle before suspecting the main control board.