Brand: Whirlpool Model Number: WRS321CDBM Main Symptom: Not cooling What happens & when: Intermittently stops cooling, evap fan still running but compressor and condenser not running.
Error Code (if any): Don’t know how to check for error codes
Parts or tests already tried: Side by side Whirlpool about 11 years old. Found evap fan running but condenser fan and compressor not running. Since condenser fan daisy chains power from compressor plug it was clear that no power was being sent to compressor and since power is sent from control board I replaced control board and fridge fired right up and ran good for a week then did same thing evap fan running but not condenser fan or compressor. I was like maybe freezer thermistor broke replaced that and it cooled to setpoint 0 Degrees in freezer 37 in fridge then shut down like it’s supposed to then I went out for 3 hours came home and freezer up to 40 degrees and cooling not kicking on but evap fan running. As far as I know the control board sends power to cooling system based on what it reads from the freezer thermistor and fridge side thermistor just controls the cooling door between freezer and fridge so I am stumped as to why the cooling is intermittently working then just stops. If I unplug it and plug it back in still doesn’t cool only evap fan runs but no comp or cond fan. When it runs compressor quiet (no signs of struggle) and cools quickly and efficiently, evaporator is clean and doesn’t build up ice or anything and I thoroughly cleaned condenser. Any ideas on what could be wrong or advice for how to check for codes would be greatly appreciated.
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Here is the tech sheet for that model if you don’t have it.I wonder if the compressor relay is opening up under load? Double check all your connection on the board you put in .
I looked into that but if it was cutting out the compressor the condenser fan would still be running because the red power wire daisy chains from compressor plug and continues on to the condenser fan and I used a meter and the power going to compressor form control board is being shut off like the fridge thinks it has reached temp setting. Thanks a ton for these documents though! I had the parts list and wiring diagram on paper that came with the unit but needed a magnifying glass to read it and I couldn’t find the service sheet that tells me how to enter diagnostic mode so I will use that tomorrow to see if the fridge might tell me what has failed. Very much appreciate your help bigbuck!
If you access the main control and test from the red wire to the white wire with a multimeter at connection P1, is there 120 Volts AC and if there is, is the condenser fan operating?
There is no 120V on the red and white wire. The main control board on the back of fridge is not sending the 120V on red and white to the compressor/cond fan. I spoke with a local NH appliance repair guy today and he said based on the fact that I replaced the main board and the freezer Thermistor and the fridge is not going into defrost or anything and still having same symptoms his guess is the control board on the freezer door is the problem. He said the freezer thermistor plugs into the freezer door board then sends temp info to main board so I am going to try that and if that doesn’t fix it I’m sending the fridge to scrap yard. Thank you for your feedback WilliamM!
Based on the wiring diagram for this model, it looks like the thermistors directly connect to the main control. As the evaporator fan is operating, the thermistors are operating properly since the main control is attempting to call for cold air. However, a DC short could cause the main control to not operate properly and it is possible that the DC short could be in the dispenser control.
Thank you WilliamM! That backs up what my local appliance guy hypothesized based on what I’ve done and that fridge is still having same issue. That UI control is super pricey I don’t understand why it costs more than the main board that is much more elaborate I would think it would be the other way around cost wise.
Turns out it was the main control board. I ordered a new one and installed but it was defective. Ordered another one and that fixed it. Replacing the UI board on the freezer door did not fix it so I was like what the heck and smacked the back of the fridge where the main board is and boom the cooling kicked on so I knew it was a bad relay on the main board which prompted me to return the defective board and buy a new one and fridge is working great again. I thought it was impossible that the first new board had same problem as old failed board but it did. Frustrating diagnosis on this one.