Whirlpool range supply voltage problems

Oven/Range/Cooktop Repair
1

TL;DR: New range has good voltage from outlet, but voltages go wonky when connected to range.

My brand new Whirlpool range cooktop works just fine, however, the control panel won’t come on to enable the oven controls. I don’t even get an error code – nothing comes on the control panel.

When the range was first delivered the installers said it was an electrical problem and told me to contact an electrician. Trying to save a penny or two I talked to some electrical engineers I know and decided to do some basic troubleshooting myself.

I made the following measurements:

Voltage at 3-prong outlet without range cable plugged in:
Left-hot to N: 120.9 V
Right-hot to N: 116.1 V
L-Hot to R-Hot: 247.7 V

Everything seemed OK at the outlet, except for the Hot-Hot voltage, which seemed high. My power company tells me it is within their safe range and a Whirlpool technician told me that that input voltage is acceptable, as the range was up to 250 V. Next I focused on the cable:

Voltage at 3 leads of 3-prong range cable, plugged in to outlet, but disconnected from range:
Left-hot to N: 121.0 V
Right-hot to N: 116.7 V
L-Hot to R-Hot: 247.8 V

Everything still OK – eliminated the cable from the problem. So here’s where it gets tricky. When I connected the cable back to the oven, plugged the cable back into the outlet, re-powered, and measured again, I got different results:

Left-hot (connected to red wire) to N (connected to white wire): ~225 V
Right-hot (connected to black wire) to N: ~25 V
Left-hot to Right-hot: 247.6 V

  • Note, the firs two measurements are approximate, b/c the VOM seemed a bit jumpier than my previous measurements.

So obviously there’s the problem. The range isn’t getting correct voltage on one side. It gets enough to operate the cooktop, which doesn’t go through the control panel, but the control panel doesn’t get enough voltage to enable the rest of the operations. But what is causing this? The voltages from the outlet and cable were good. It was only when I connected it to the range that everything went wonky.

I appreciate any feedback on this issue. Right now I have another range on order from Lowes as a replacement, but I’d like to understand what this issue is or how to go about diagnosing it. I suspect the oven control panel is faulty, but I’d like to know how to be sure. Thanks!

2

Here are your parts
Parts for Whirlpool WFE540H0AW0 / Range - AppliancePartsPros.com

I think you may have a typo in the model number.
The above is the closest number I could find to the one given.
it is for a wfe540h0aw0 not a wfe540hhaw0.

It does not sound like a machine problem to me.
I think this is a house wiring/electrical problem.
May even be the power coming to the house.

[COLOR=“Blue”]Voltage at 3-prong outlet without range cable plugged in:
Left-hot to N: 120.9 V
Right-hot to N: 116.1 V
L-Hot to R-Hot: 247.7 V[/COLOR]
The L1 and L2 to Neutral voltages added together should equal the L1 to L2 voltage and they do not.
Also the two halves of the line should be closer in voltage.

If the L2 (red to Neutral) with the unit hooked up was a true reading then the 225 volts you see would feed back into the electrical panel and blow any 120 volt device on that side of the line re: light builds, TV’s etc.

Do you have another 240 volt appliance in the house (electrical water heater or electric dryer)?
If yes then measure the voltages at it’s receptacle.

If there is not another appliance then you will have to measure the voltages inside the electrical panel.
This can be dangerous depending on the panel so be very very careful.

3

Yes, thank you, the model number is WFE540H0AW0 – typo.

As far as I can tell the power coming into the house is good. I had my power company check it and they measured 123.6 V, 123.6 V, and 247.2 V.

I just measured the voltages on my dryer outlet and got 123.6 V, 123.8 V, and 246.8 V. That’s probably what I’d like to see on the oven outlet, right?

So what would cause one outlet to measure differently? Bad breaker? Would it be worth swapping out the 50 A breaker for a new one to see if the problem goes away?

Or could it be a bad outlet? I opened up the oven outlet and checked for any obvious problems. All of the wires seem to be in good shape. The screws are tightened down and in contact with the wires.

I’m going to break down and call an electrician, but I’m wanting to understand this issue better and continue troubleshooting to the best of my ability, while I wait for my appointment.

Thanks!

4

[COLOR=“Blue”]I just measured the voltages on my dryer outlet and got 123.6 V, 123.8 V, and 246.8 V. That’s probably what I’d like to see on the oven outlet, right?[/COLOR]
Correct

[COLOR=“Blue”]So what would cause one outlet to measure differently? Bad breaker?[/COLOR]
I do not think so.
Your ~247 volts (L1 to L2) seems good all the time and the breakers are in the L1 and L2 lines.
I would say there is a problem with the Neutral/ground.

[COLOR=“Blue”]Would it be worth swapping out the 50 A breaker for a new one to see if the problem goes away?[/COLOR]
Does not make sense to me that it is the problem.

[COLOR=“Blue”]Or could it be a bad outlet? I opened up the oven outlet and checked for any obvious problems. All of the wires seem to be in good shape. The screws are tightened down and in contact with the wires.[/COLOR]
Also does not make sense.

Below is the install sheet which goes over the differences.
http://www.whirlpool.com/digitalassets/MLPDF/Installation%20Instructions%20-%20W10403811.pdf
Take a look at how a 3 wire hook up uses the ground strap in the unit to ensure this is correct.

I am also having problems understanding what is going on.
Especially with the following measurement.
Left-hot (connected to red wire) to N (connected to white wire): ~225 V

Were the above measurements made with one of the stove top elements on?

Am I correct that all the stovetop elements work OK?
If yes does the Cooktop On indivcator light come on?
It uses the L1 to Neutral voltage.

5

I can verify that the ground strap is connected as shown in the install guide.

The measurements were made with all of the stove top elements off.

All of the stovetop elements work, but the burner on and hot surface lights do not come on.

6

OK That confirms that the readings you measure at the terminal strip with the unit plugged in are real not ghost readings.

re :
L1 to L2 is OK - the elements come on.
There is a problem with the L1 to Neutral because this is what runs the lights.

Just wish I could figure out what could cause this.
I still think it is a wiring problem because with the stove unplugged the outlet should read the same as your dryer outlet and it does not.

7

Hello, sorry for the delay in following up on this. I finally broke down and got an electrician. He came in and said it was a bad neutral wire. He installed a new 4-wire setup from the oven to the panel box. After changing the cable on the oven and plugging it in, everything works perfectly. In the end I paid a little over $400 for the troubleshooting and getting the new line run. I’ve now got a more modern 4-wire setup and a happy wife, so I’d say its worth it. Thanks for the help along the way.

8

You are welcome

And thanks for getting back to us. Now when others search for a similar problem they will see what actually worked instead of just suggestions about what could be the cause.

9

My stove is being crazy and i found this thread. I wish i could send one of you the video it seemed to help this lady out. Lord knows i need help if someone can help me out i would love to show this video i have