Brand: Whirlpool Model Number: WEE745H0LZ3 Main Symptom: Oven won’t start. Touchpad doesn’t work. What happens & when: Range initially started showing an error code of F2E1 “stuck or shorted key” after I bent over the range (no force or pressure was put on it). I unplugged it, turned off breaker, did not make a difference. The oven will not turn on because of the stuck/shorted error code. Months later after unplugging it, leaving it alone, the error code does not come up anymore, however, no keys work except the number 1 2 4 5 6 9. Clock display works.
Error Code (if any): F2E1
Parts or tests already tried: Unplugging it, resetting the braker
Photos / video link:
Thanks for the detailed information! Based on what you’re describing with your Whirlpool WEE745H0LZ3, I suspect you’re dealing with a failing touchpad or user interface rather than a problem with the oven’s heating components.
The original F2E1 error code indicates a stuck or shorted keypad, which fits with the oven refusing to start. The fact that the error eventually disappeared, but only the 1, 2, 4, 5, 6, and 9 buttons still respond, is another strong clue that part of the keypad circuitry has failed.
Since the clock still displays normally and some buttons work, the control is receiving at least some power. That doesn’t completely rule out the electronic control board, but it makes the keypad or its connections the first place I’d investigate.
Here’s what I’d recommend checking
1. Disconnect power at the breaker. Since resetting the breaker hasn’t helped, there’s no reason to keep repeating that step.
2. Inspect the keypad connections. Access the control panel and look for a loose connector, damaged wiring, corrosion, or signs of moisture. Even though you didn’t put pressure on the range, leaning over it could have coincided with an already weak connection acting up.
3. Check the keypad ribbon cable, if equipped. Carefully disconnect it, inspect the contacts for discoloration or damage, and reconnect it securely. Avoid scraping the contacts or using harsh cleaners.
4. Reassemble and test. Restore power and check whether all the buttons respond. If the same group of buttons remains unresponsive, that points more strongly toward an internal keypad failure.
My recommendation
If the connections look good and reseating them doesn’t restore the buttons, I’d recommend replacing the keypad/user interface assembly before replacing the main oven control board. Whirlpool’s F2E1 troubleshooting guidance supports that repair approach.
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I wouldn’t spend money on heating elements, temperature sensors, or a door switch at this point. Your symptoms are much more consistent with a keypad problem.
One question: When you press the buttons that aren’t working, such as Bake, Broil, Start, or Cancel, do you hear a beep, or is there absolutely no response?
That will help us narrow down whether the keypad is failing to register those buttons or the control is receiving the commands but not acting on them.
Thanks for your response!!! when I press any of the buttons that don’t work including the bake, broil, start, or cancel, they don’t make a sound at all. The only buttons that make a beep is the numbers I mentioned. Forgive my ignorance but do you have a link or resource for me to read on how to access the control panel? THANKS FOR YOUR REPLY
Thanks for getting back to me! And no need to apologize. I’m happy to walk you through it!
The fact that only certain number buttons beep, while Bake, Broil, Start, and Cancel are completely unresponsive, is a really helpful clue.
Since your Whirlpool WEE745H0LZ3 previously displayed an F2E1 stuck or shorted key error, I’m strongly leaning toward a failed keypad or touch-control assembly rather than the main oven control board.
Before purchasing anything, though, I’d like you to check the connections behind the control panel. A loose connector, damaged wiring, or corrosion could cause similar symptoms.
How to access the control panel
Safety first: Turn off the range’s double-pole circuit breaker and verify the power is off before removing any panels. This range uses a 240-volt electrical supply.
Here’s a parts diagram specifically for your model:
Look at the Cooktop Parts diagram. You’ll find the control panel at item 16, the membrane switch at item 23, and the electronic controls nearby. This will help you identify the components before disassembly.
Parts Dr+1
For the inspection:
With power disconnected, carefully pull the range forward if necessary, making sure not to strain the power cord or disturb the anti-tip bracket.
Inspect the rear access panels and the fasteners securing the front control console. The exact removal sequence should be confirmed from the service instructions; I don’t want you forcing the panel.
Once you have safe access, inspect the keypad ribbon or wiring connections for looseness, corrosion, or damage.
If you find a removable connector, photograph its position before disconnecting it. Reseat it carefully without pulling on the wires.
Reassemble the covers before restoring power and testing the buttons.
One more helpful detail: Your model lists a separate membrane switch, part W11564643, and keypad harness, part W11025616. That means we have components to investigate before considering the more expensive electronic control.
Parts Dr+1
If you’re comfortable doing so, send me a picture of the back of your range near the control panel. I can help you identify which access panel to investigate next.
Based on your symptoms, the membrane keypad is still my leading suspect, but I’d like to rule out a connection problem first.