gu1500xtks0 was in the middle of a quick wash cycle when it simply stopped. Checked the breaker - fine. Checked that there is current coming into the machine and there is.
No lights anywhere on the control panel.
To complicate matters this machine has had issues with the control panel 2 yrs ago. The normal cycle would not work or light up. I replaced the control panel - it ran ok for a couple of days but then reverted back to the same problem so I just put the old one back in and have been doing the quick cycle ever since.
Could this be the electronic control assembly rather than the control panel this time?
i would do a test on the thermal fuse as feisty63 said, usually when this model is completely dead the thermal fuse is bad AP3178588 is what your looking for
a continuity test should determine if its good or not
[COLOR=Blue] Could this be the electronic control assembly rather than the control panel this time?[/COLOR]
Most likely culprit is the thermal fuse, Item 6/2.
If it is blown be sure to use the new harness as this is an update for random fuse blows.
Next would be the door switch.
Also could be a broken wire from the line cord connection point to the control board.
Then it may be either the control board or keypad.
[COLOR=Blue]To complicate matters this machine has had issues with the control panel 2 yrs ago. The normal cycle would not work or light up.[/COLOR]
Since you have to open it up you might as well try to fix this.
You will see the pin-outs for the keypad in the tech sheet.
You will also see that certain pins/tracks are used for more than one key so if a number of keys do not work this will narrow it down for you and you can check the circuit trail from that pin on the board to see if it has a crack or a bad solder joint,
Does sound like only the one key is shot but you may not have noticed that the others do not work.
That it worked for a couple days suggests a dirty connector.
Try the following
Connector Cleaning / Checking
Unplug the unit
Open it up
Remove the ribbon cable from the keypad to the control board at the control board.
Clean the edge connector.
If it is the type where there is not a connector just the insulation is removed, it can be cleaned with a pencil eraser. Do not use an ink eraser as it is too abrasive.
Check the tracks in the ribbon cable for hairline cracks. A magnifying glass helps here.
Would not hurt to clean the connector on the board. Use electronics contact cleaner or isopropyl alcohol and a tooth brush. Be gentle and do not reconnect till all the solvent evaporates.
Reconnect everything and give it a try.
If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale’s dynamic range.
There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it’s use.
It’s alive!! - well all except the normal cycle which even after scrubbing with toothbrushes and alchohol didn’t come back to life unfortunately. I wonder if a new ribbon cable might do the trick?
Nonetheless I’m happy to dodge the $700 bullet for a $20 part!
[COLOR=Blue]I wonder if a new ribbon cable might do the trick?[/COLOR]
No I do not think it will make a difference, You already replaced the Control Panel (keypad) and have cleaned the connectors so the most probable culprit would be the control board itself.
Not sure if I’m going to bother checking this or not. At this point I’m just glad to have it back in action. The last thing I want to lash out on at Xmas is a new dishwasher and w/2 young kids there’s no way to do without.
Having used it now for 2 years - I can tell you that the Quick Wash cycle actually does a half decent job as long as you don’t load it to the gills and has the advantage of being quick/economical.
Do any of the online vendors accept returns on control boards?
Looks like Pots and Pans is pretty close to Normal so I would use it if the dishes are not quite clean [COLOR=Red]
Daniel J[/COLOR]
Please start your own thread in this section using Post New Topic.
Adding to this one will just confuse things especially if yours is a more complicated fix.
Also your Model Number is short about 5 digits.
[quote=denman;159017][COLOR=red]Daniel J[/COLOR]
Please start your own thread in this section using Post New Topic.
Adding to this one will just confuse things especially if yours is a more complicated fix.
Also your Model Number is short about 5 digits.[/quote]
I already looked it up using my full model # and it was the same part number, same fix, ordered a new thermal fuse. Thanks.
I have a Quiet Partner V as well, and same issue has happened once in the past. The repair guy tried pressing buttons and that did obviously nothing. He said I needed a new control panel and all I ended up needing was one part. It may have been the thermal fuse you mentioned above, but I thought it had a cylinder-like shape at the end of it, so not sure.
Same problem is happening again after a lighning storm about a year later. Hoping I can remember the part.