I have a Whirlpool Accubake oven (SF362LXSS0) that doesn’t seem to be consistently turning on, and the problem’s getting worse and worse. If I try to turn it on to bake, I hear several clicks, but not that “gas oven turning on” sound and no heat comes out (but a slight smell of gas is emitted.) In recent experience, however, I recall that the broiler does work.
I read around on the forums and checked the resistance of the solenoids; it’s about 196-205 Ohms for each connection. I also took off the lower panel and was able to verify the spark on the igniter.
Does anyone have any other ideas or suggestions for diagnostics before I start throwing parts and money I’ve not got at this thing?
[QUOTE=burtonsimmons;435063]…I read around on the forums and checked the resistance of the solenoids; it’s about 196-205 Ohms for each connection…[/QUOTE]
Such result looks suspicious to me because the normal reading suppose to be about 216 Ohms. I would recommend to replace the gas valve/regulator first. There is nothing to loose for you because you can return it to Appliance Parts Pros if it would not fix the problem.
Thank you! I guess that’s the direction I’m heading it. I figured the resistance reading was in the acceptable range (no pun intended) especially since it was consistent between the two, but I guess it could be the common lead there.
[quote=Gene;436925]You are welcome. Keep us posted.
Gene.[/quote]
I was having a similar problem. I found another thread on here telling how to check the control panel and the gas valve solenoids months ago and was finally able do the checks tonight when the over wouldn’t cut on. Due to convenience, I decided to check the terminal resistance 1st. I checked both to common and had 216 to 220 on both. When i stood up, the control panel had gone completely black (doh!). I unplugged the oven for a couple minutes and plugged it back in and still no sign of life!
Any ideas?
The stove will release gas, but will not ignite either.
Open the control panel from the back and check the incoming power to the control board by measuring the voltage between the wires to the terminals P4-1 & P4-3. If the reading is correct (about 120 VAC), replace the control board.
If you need the correct part number for the control board, post the color of the face panel.
Ok, i fixed that problem. My GFCI plug in my kitchen was tripped so there was no power at the wall. When i was checking the resistance at the gas valve, i must have hit some wires or something. So, the oven display is working again and the oven ignites for now…
Let me describe my original intermittent problem: When turning on the oven, we would set the temp and press Start. We always hear the controller click. When it works, we then hear the gas solenoid or some second click, gas release, and then the igniter. When it doesn’t, we never hear the 2nd click.
Sometimes we could leave everything on and about 10-20 minutes later it would continue the cycle and ignite.
When we have this problem, the broiler does not work either.
I found another thread months ago and printed out your instructions to check the P24 terminal to ground and then the bake/broil solenoids. I had it in the over drawer until the oven stopped working and i had the time to trouble shoot it.
Since the bake/broil solenoids check fine tonight, should i check the P24 terminal the next time it stops working or should i do something else.
Its looking like it might be the control panel…$275 or a new oven for not much more!
[quote=Gene;437109]Yes, thats right. Also make sure the spark module is properly grounded through its ground terminal.
Not working again today. I checked the P24 terminal and it has 120V to ground.
I rechecked the valve terminals to common and both had 209 ohms.
This seems pretty pretty close to 216. Do you think this is it or should I move on to another check and what would that be?
Can you post detailed description on what is going on today?
Sure. We tried to turn the oven on this afternoon and it was acting the same as last night. We hit start, hear one click and nothing else. no gas and no ignition. Broil would not work either. So, i checked the P24 and got 120 volts. Checked the valve and got 209 ohms on both. Wiggled everything and nothing would kick it on. So, i left it with the Bake command on, but not heating.
Most of the time, when we leave it set at 350 with the display acting like everything is normal, it will eventually complete the cycle, ignite, and come up to temperature. This can happen anytime from 20 minutes to 2-3 hours after our 1st attempt. For example, i left it turned on about 4:30 EST. I just put our lasagna on the grill! and when i came back inside at 5:30, the oven had turned on and was heating up.
Ok, I just ordered one from you. I’ll give it a try and let you know.
I’ve actually been enjoying the challenge in proving that anything can be cooked on a grill! The lasagna in a cassarole dish turned out great!
The spark module came in today and i replace it tonight. The oven is working right now, but the last one was intermittent, so i’ll watch it for a while to verify it fixed it.
The cycle to ignite seems a little slower than the original, but as long as it works, we’ll be happy.
Thanks for your help in diagnosing this. I’ll be sure to come back to the site with my next appliance problem or part need.
Gene, I am having a similar issue and before seeing this I had already placed an order for the control board, but now I am not sure I made the right decision. My issue is that my stove top all works fine, but both the broil and bake function just dont work. the bake function will click the ignitor two times but I never hear the gas valve open, as for the broil function it just does nothing. I never see anything displayed on the display…
should I have ordered the spark ignition board rather than the control board?
Im not home now so that is going from memory. I ended up ordering both parts just to be sure. the systoms we are having is no bake and no broil. the bake to click the ignitor twice but I never hear the gas kick on and the oven never heats up, but the timer keeps ticking…
the broil just does nothing, so to be safe I ordered both parts and am going to test the ignitor board first as from what I have found it sounds like that just might do the trick.
thanks for checking in and Ill keep you posted as my parts should be here today.
Gene, thank you so much for your reply. I got 205 ohms on the bake and nothing, not a reading on the broil side, so I have ordered the gas valve… I think I have ordered just about everything…
but I guess I will have all parts to test. I will wait for the gas valve to arrive first as that one clearly was not reading properly, so I will leave the ignitor and control board in original packaging until I have tested the valve.
I think I have ordered just about everything…