Oven has had occasional problem since new (3-4 times over two years)where it would suddenly display “PF” and turn off in use. Now, the display has gone completely dark and oven appears to have no power. Resetting the breaker has no effect, however leaving the breaker off for several hours then turning back on results in oven working again (temporarily). Oven will “go dark” again, even if not used at all.
What should I check - control board? Thermal fuse?
I would lean toward the control board being bad,.
Sounds like something on the board is heating up and causing the shutdown.
In the past it only did it intermittently causing your Power Failure error now it has become a full open.
Since I do not have info on exactly what trips the Power Failure error I would try removing and reconnecting the ribbon cable (keyboard to control).
Perhaps cleaning the connectors with isopropyl or electronics cleaner.
Most likely it is a bad solder joint on the control board or a bad winding in the transformer.
Look at #37 on the oven breakdown of your product. It is the thermostat, and it is located in the back of the oven. If you pull the oven out, and take the back off, you will see the thermostat. Make sure the oven breaker is off, and take the 2 wires off the thermostat, and put them together, and put some tape around it, so it does not hit metal, and turn the power on and see if it works. If so DO NOT run it like that, it is for testing reasons only. If it works replace the oven sensor, and the thermostat. If it does not work replace the board.
Interestingly, the problem recurs wihout the oven being used (not heating up).
Last night I tripped the breaker back on, the oven came back in “PF” mode as expected, I reset the clock, and all was fine. This morning there was a clicking sound, then the display went back to “PF”. Oven hasn’t been used at all.
I agree with denman - there is an intermittent power interruption, most likely on the low voltage power supply side for the control board. Possible a micro crack somewhere or a bad winding in the low voltage transformer which breaks as soon as it heats up.
The oven shutdown thermostat, mentioned by Tom, in case if it’s blown will interrupt power to the heating elements only.
Yeah, it’s looking like it must be the control board. I got it working again for a few days, then it just went dark again. Heat doesn’t seem to be an issue, as it does this when the oven is never even turned on.
Can I get at the control board without pulling the oven out?
I have a similar problem as described here, but found something different.
Our unit has been on and off for awhile, but eventually went off for good. After a breaker on/off, the oven would make some noise (no control panel lights at all) but I could turn the oven on. But after about a minute or so, 4 beeps and back to nothing.
I’d read about the ribbon connection on the control panel, so I opened up the control panel and adjusted the connection … no change.
Then I noticed something … the Transformer located above the upper oven (behind the control panel) is burned out. The two red discs labeled V1 and V2 are burned to a crisp.
Now, I found the part … but my question is what would be the cause of this … and how do I know if anything else it wrong.
First is your Model the same as the original post?
The board you describe is a spike suppressor, it is supposed to stop voltage spikes on the line from getting onto the control board and blowing electronic components.
Also by the sound of it your transformer has overheated and needs replacing.
I am leery of the wiring diagram as it does not match the parts exactly.
It is hard to say what took the parts out, the only thing I can think of is a massive voltage spike or the voltage being much higher than it should. It could be that there is a problem with the house wiring and it blew the spike suppressor first and the blew the transformer later.
Odds are also high that the control board is toast.
This may be one where it would be best to get a pro in, unless you have some electrical or electronic experience and a meter.
Here’s a diagram that I found (the part in this diagram is #20). You’re right, it is the suppressor, I was reading the wrong part when I said the transformer.
I wouldn’t doubt that something was maybe wired wrong since this was installed in a new construction.
I have hope that the control board is fine, because it would come on randomly for a while, then fade away eventually.
Maybe it is only the suppressor that is bad. I guess it could be from lightning. I’m considering pulling the oven out, checking the connections to the house wiring and replacing the suppressor, for $50. But maybe it’s better to get a pro to look at it.
That is a different kettle of fish, if only the suppressor is burned.
I would disconnect the spike suppressor and then try powering the unit up without it.
Perhaps it is the culprit.
In any case you have nothing to loose.
If the unit comes up and runs then all you have to do is order and replace the suppressor ASAP.
If I disconnect the spike suppressor how do I connect all the wires that connect via the spike suppressor bolts? Just keep the together and insulate each group with electrical tape for the test?
You were right, denman. I took out the spike suppressor and reattached the wires to the terminal strip. Unfortunately, upon powering back on, the same results. It attempts to power up, but there is no LCD panel lights, and within a minute or so, I get a series of five beeps (short - long - short - short - short). I get that same sequence whenever I press the start button.
I checked the connection to the house wiring and it looked OK, so I’m guessing that lightning was the culprit.
I also took off the touch panel to get a better look at the control board, but I couldn’t see any really obvious damage to it. The only thing I noticed was a black circle in the upper right corner of the LCD screen (which looks like where a LCD lamp is). I can’t tell if that spot is normal or if it’s an indication of something.
The suppressor is definitely bad, but it looks like the control panel (or something else) is also bad.
Now, I’m thinking I may be in the cost realm to get a pro to look at it. I’d hate to spring for a control board if that’s not the only issue.
You should check the voltage output of the transformer.
I do not know what the output should be, it may be marked on the transformer. If you cannot determine what it should be, then it should be checked with the transformer connected to the board and then disconnected to see if the board is pulling down it’s output.
If I was doing this I would disconnect the various plugs going to the board so all that is left is the board and transformer and see if it comes alive.
If it does then components have to be checked to find which one is causing the problem.
If it is still dead I would still check components just to be sure one of them does not take out the new board.
The above is probably overly cautious but I am a firm believer in safe instead of sorry. Odds are high that it is just your control board but not 100%.
Also I do not know what your series of beeps mean.
I am off to the lake for a couple days so I am going to ask for help from others in the tech section. With luck one of them will have additional suggestions and/or know how to interpret you beeps.
I believe the main purpose of this suppressor is to protect radios and TVs from Radio Frequency Interference. This device is not very important because it does not have any safety functions and does not affect the oven performance. You can replace it or use the oven without this part - up to you.
The major problem is that the oven control does not work as it suppose to, and the correction I believe is to replace the control board and the low voltage transformer. These parts are not too difficult to replace yourself and you can save a lot on labor charge and parts mark up (enough to by a new membrane switch which I do not think you’ll need).
The part number for the control board is AP3873768
The part number for the low voltage transformer is AP3968801