Our whirlpool oven is just 2 years old and we used the self-cleaning on it and then about 2 days later we tried to use the oven and it would not heat up. We had an appliance guy come and look at it and he said that we need to get a new control board about $300 to $500 for parts and labor. Is this something we would be able to order and put in ourselves for cheaper?
Here are your parts
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL RBS305PRQ00 | AppliancePartsPros.com
Here is a tech sheet
https://www.servicematters.com/docs/wiring/Tech%20Sheet%20-%208301758.pdf
[COLOR=Red]Be sure to unplug the unit when working on it 240 volts is lethal[/COLOR]
You will see that the unit has a thermal fuse (Item 37 in the “oven parts” section. I would check that first with a meter, should be closed at room temperature. You could measure this at the control board back through the bake or broil element. Should be 5 to 15 ohms if measured this way.
If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
- Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
- Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
- When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale’s dynamic range.
There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it’s use.
I guess my wife started this thread, but never came back around to see if there were any replies. I just happened to stumble across it while searching for an answer and low and behold I find someone with the exact same problem as us. Looking at the name of the poster (Hritchie) i realized it was my wife lol.
Thank you for doing this legwork for us and sorry you never received a thank you until now. Much appreciated Denman 
your control might still be covered, check your papers that come with your oven.
Well when I pulled the oven out of the wall, i noticed that the “Appliance Doctor” my wife called broke every single plastic support off of the cover because he didnt realize they screwed on from the inside out, as well as the arms on the left and right side that follow the glass door down to the bottom. Fantastic.
I used the tech sheet and found the thermal fuse on the back panel of the oven and removed it, checked it for continuity with an Ideal Amp-probe and found there was none. I then removed the fuse and taped the line and load leads together and turned on the breaker, and set the oven to preheat to 350.
Sure enough, the oven started heating, turns out the problem was a simple blown fuse, and I have been without an oven for 4 months thinking it was going to be a $500 fix. For a $55 service call the “Appliance Doctor” broke my cover plate into pieces and stated my oven was in need of a $500 repair. Fortunatly I found you guys before I made another costly mistake. $33 for a new fuse, ships today!
Cheers!