Hi,
The oven does not heat up past 200 degrees. Initially the error code was F3E2. Unplugged the unit to re-cycle, and the error code changed to F1E8, and continues to be F1E8. Any feedback concerning this problem will be appreciated.
Hi.
The fault code F3E3 require replacement of the oven temperature sensor, but the code you are getting now F1E8 does not exists. Could it be F1E3?
Here are the breakdown diagrams and parts list for your range:
[MODEL]WFE301LVS0[/MODEL]
Oven sensor [PART]AP4326911[/PART]
Thank you,
Simon.
Simon,
Thanks for your reply…you are correct concerning the F3E2 error code…I executed the diagnostic mode again (3 times) after getting your reply…still F1E8…ran diagnostics again to send you the s/w level (5105)…and the error code changed to F3E2 and it continue to display that error code…in light of this new code…does your resolution still apply…also broiler mode works fine…since there is only one oven temperature sensor…why does bake mode not function and broiler mode does…
Hello again.
You are raising a reasonable question. Technically it’s possible for the sensor to be faulty even if it works ok during the broil because broil does not require control to cycle the heat on/off. To be sure you can test the oven sensor resistance value. Unplug the range. Use a multimeter to measure the resistance at the disconnect plug at the back of the range or trace the wires to the control board and locate two violet wires at connector 3(disconnect the plug). At room temperature you should have approximately 1080 Ohms. So if the sensor passes the test, replace the control board
[PART]AP5306143[/PART]
Thank you,
Simon.
Simon,
Thanks for your speedy reply…I’ll follow your suggestions…and get back with you with the outcome…
Hi Simon,
Bought a MM and checked the resistance and it read 1085-1086…I assume that oven temperature sensor is okay then…a couple of things…I’d like to check the baking element for any problems…it’s a hidden element as you know…how do I go about finding it…so that I may inspect it…don’t know if it has anything to do with problem…lastly is there anyway to check the control board to determine if it’s functioning properly…Thanx
Hi.
You can check the bake element from the rear of the range. Turn the power off or unplug the power cord and remove the back panel. You should be able to see broil and bake elements terminals. You can test element for continuity between the two terminals (with one wire removed) or if you feel comfortable to check live voltage you can check if there is 240V between the two bake element terminals with all wires attached and oven turned to BAKE. If there is 240V coming to the bake element but the oven doesn’t get hot, replace the bake element. If there is no correct voltage at the element, replace the control board.
Bake element [PART]AP4564098[/PART]
Thank you,
Simon.
Hi Simon,
Ran the diagnostics you suggested…the voltage test revealed that the voltage was 240 when cycle heat was on and 0 when not…so I’ll order the baking element as suggested…had some difficulty locating the hidden bake element…thought it could be accessed from rear of unit…not so…had to take off the right side panel of unit to access the bake element terminals…still not sure how to actually remove the old bake element…there is one screw that’s holding the bake element in place… any suggestions…
Hi.
Have you checked the element for continuity?
To replace the hidden bake element you will have to remove the right side panel, the insolation and one screw on the right from the element.
Thank you,
Simon.
Hi Simon,
To answer you query concerning the continuity test…I did…tested it from the connector in rear of unit…where the wires from ECM connects to wires leading to the element terminal…it was positive…not sure you would find this to be a valid test…in other news…from a cold oven…I was able to reach the default bake temperature of 350…325 via test mode reading…also from a cold oven was able to reach 400…374 via test mode reading…calibrated temperature +30 afterwards…the interesting aspect is that it took much longer to reach the desired temperature then I remember…would you still concur that replacing the bake element will resolve my problem…thanx…your help has been invaluable…
Hi.
If any oven is reaching 400 degrees even if it may take longer, the bake element has to be normal! Which leaves out the control board. I would replace it, besides you can always return it back installed or not within one year. But because the broil element is also involved in the heating, before ordering the control board you should run the bake element continuity test at its contacts with one wire off. Don’t forget to unplug the unit.
Thank you,
Simon.