Our dishwasher began making a fairly loud noise recently while it is washing and rinsing. The dishes appear to be clean and undamaged once the wash has gone through its entire cycle. But the noise is quite loud and disconcerting. I have taken the parts out down to the scraper/screen assembly and cleaned them out but the sound persists. Any Ideas what might be causing the persistant noise.
I have the exact same problem. Bought the dishwasher for about 1-1/2 years. Before it was really quiet. I doubt plastic nozzles inside are getting worn.
youngking,
Did you remove any parts from the pump to check for a foreign objects inside?
Gene.
Thanks Gene. there was no foreign objects in the pump.
I removed dishwash motor & its assembly and found there had been small leakage from the pump shaft to the motor bearing. The motor bearing close to the pump side was badly rustic. I cleaned and lubricated the bearing. It runs smoothly after lubricating.
I almost decide to change out the whole motor assembly. Luckily the bearing was not damaged, otherwise would cost $200 to have new motor assembly.
Did you fix the leak?
Gene.
I pulled the scraper assembly out, cleaned the screen, Removed the motor and pump volute assembly, removed the impellor and found a pile of corrosion/debris on the outside of the inboard motor bearing. I removed the bearing and found it to be dry and rough. I cleaned it up and repacked it but the bearing is too far gone so it still makes the noise. I am hoping to be able to get a replacement bearing and seal kit. Maybe I will have to buy the motor pump assembly. Any other thoughts. Bearing is an NSK 608D16.
[QUOTE=bowser;67370]…I am hoping to be able to get a replacement bearing and seal kit. Maybe I will have to buy the motor pump assembly…[/QUOTE]
Unfortunately Whirlpool does not sell just a bearing. You have to replace the whole motor assembly.
- The part number for the motor assembly is AP3179652
Gene.
I went to the local auto parts store where I live and gave them the bearing #and they found a match in an RBL roller bearing 6082RS, It cost $1.77, I used a propane torch to heat the alluminum motor housing a bit to get the old bearing and rotor out of the housing and I had to cut the old bearing off the shaft with a dremmel rotary tool. With the replacement bearing installed the motor runs smoothly and no more noise.
We are glad you were able to fix it. Good job.
Gene.
I will try to 1.77 method before the 148.00 method.. 
Mine just started last night. I now know what to look for.
Dang I love the interwebs!!
MUCH THANKS Fellas!!
Whirlpool and contract buyer-resellers like Sears Kenmore know the seal they’ve been using between the circulation pump and its driving electric motor have been failing at a VERY high rate for years, yet they have not replaced that seal with a better design nor adopted a 2-stage seal. Worse, they know that when (not if) these seals fail, the motor shaft they have been using is rust prone and the roller bearing they have been selling is also rust prone. Given that these machines sell for hundreds of dollars, for very little more production cost, they could have used a stainless steel, motor shaft and a stainless pump-side bearing. That would have GREATLY improved these machines. If you are replacing the pump-side motor bearing, so spend a little more to get a stainless steel bearing. Bearing numbers start with 608 and have 22mm overall diameter, 8mm inner diameter, and 7mm wide.
John
I have the same problem. Have removed the motor assembly. I don’t see anything that would indicate it’s a rusted bearing. The shaft seems solid. I would expect it to ‘wiggle’ – But how can I access the bearing? Sorry, I don’t know which part is the pump. I’m guessing it’s the plastic parts on the motor. How can I remove these from the motor? Do they just pull off?
I received an automatically-generated email alerting me to the new comment in this discussion thread. Congratulations to the site creators. That feature is working well.
As it see it, dishwasher buyers are justified in expecting that these bottom-mounted washing solution pumps should be capable of pumping quietly but powerfully for thousands of generally trouble-free hours, and not leak washing solution on their floor nor into washer parts which will certainly rust and degrade if they become wet. That buyer expectation set presents one very tough design task.
The first part that generally fails is the seal surrounding the pump-driving shaft. The pump side MUST be wet to function. It’s a simple centrifugal impeller. Yet the other side of that seal MUST be kept dry if the manufacturer selected parts which are 100% certain to rust and degrade when repeatedly wetted and heated. One rational solution would be to overtly recognize that those seals will eventually begin seeping, allowing a slight amount of leakage. Then attach a moisture-slinger to the dry side of the spinning shaft, surrounded by a moisture catcher that drains into a bottom evaporator try, similar to evaporator trays commonly found under refrigerators. That could prevent slowly degrading pump seals from slowly destroying a rust-prone shaft-support bearing.
Another strategy is to use a stainless steel shaft-support bearing on the motor’s pump side. The motor’s shaft-support bearing on the other end is not subject to becoming wet, so that bearing doesn’t need to be immune from rusting. For a genuinely “premium” model, I’d suggest that the motor shaft should also be stainless steel rather than rustable steel.
Now, as an end user, you can simply replace that whole poorly-specified collection of parts commonly described as the pump for a reported $148. That will only restart the same inevitable self-destruct process. Or, you can buy a stainless steel bearing and find suitable replacement seal to create your own much more durable rebuilt pump. Cost for a stainless steel bearing is more likely to be at least $6 rather than $2 for a common steel bearing. I gave dimensions above.
If that bearing can “wiggle” on the shaft, it is probably so loose that it allows the motor shaft/armature assembly to go into a very noisy resonance. As to how these should be replaced, that depends on how mechanically bonded the inner race has joined to the motor shaft. Don’t be surprised if you have to cut that old rusty bearing from the motor shaft. Then use a file or abrasive paper to clean the shaft enough to accept the new bearing.
Good luck.
John
Thanks John, but how do I remove the pump/impeller from the motor shaft? I can’t tell how they are connected to the motor and I don’t want to damage it.
[QUOTE=chinahorse;362764]Thanks John, but how do I remove the pump/impeller from the motor shaft? I can’t tell how they are connected to the motor and I don’t want to damage it.[/QUOTE]
The instructions are attached to the reply.
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The whole pump & motor assembly [PART]AP4434612[/PART]
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The motor assembly [PART]AP4434021[/PART]
Gene.
GU1200XTKQ0 tech sheet.pdf (1.1 MB)
Ok, just to follow up. I replaced the copper pipe with a stainless hose and it completely eliminated my noise problem. It was just a vibrating rigid pipe.
[QUOTE=chinahorse;363710]Ok, just to follow up. I replaced the copper pipe with a stainless hose and it completely eliminated my noise problem. It was just a vibrating rigid pipe.[/QUOTE]
Just wanted to say thank you for sharing your diagnosis and repair with us. It’s not often we see a bad noise created by a vibrating rigid pipe, so your post was very illuminating and instructive.
Thanks again and good luck with your dishwasher.
Gene.