Whirlpool gas stove wrong error code

Oven/Range/Cooktop Repair
1

I have a whirlpool gas stove (model number is GS440LEMT2) that seems to give a wrong error code.

The oven will work normally for a time, then stop, and the control panel goes dark, and does not respond to anything. The stove top and igniters still work though.

If I unplug it, then plug it in, the board comes back, with a “PF” (power failure) message. I press cancel, and everything goes back to normal. The clock does not seem to keep time during this “dark control panel” episode, so the power must really be cut.

I then run diagnostic by holding the cancel button for 5 sec and am given a E-1/F-5 which, according to the stove’s tech sheet is a failure code for the door latch.

I clear the code (how can one be sure that it is really clear?) and test the clean cycle (which I never use). The clean cycle starts, and the door latch securely locks the door. The control panel messages indicate a locked door and active clean cycle, the gas comes on and ignites. I cancel the clean cycle, the gas turns off, and the latch opens.

I have not let the temp go high enough in the clean cycle to test the latch temp fail-safe, but the latch definitely latches and unlatches.

I have good 120v at the outlet, and the power cord is in good shape. The wires and connections at the back in the control panel area are clean and in good shape, and do not seem to be loose.

There are couple of mouse turds, so a mouse might nest in the insulation, but I can’t see any chewed wire.

Anybody have any guidance or advice?

And how can I be sure the error code is cleared and not just giving me the same code from an old event?

Colusa Paul[LEFT][COLOR=#000000]

[/COLOR][/LEFT]

2

Hi,

Never a good sign.

When the clock goes blank I would check with a volt meter to see if you have 110-120 volts going to the clock yet. If you do then the problem is with the clock/control.

If you don’t have power to the clock (this is what I would guess) when it goes blank then you will need to trace it back with a volt meter to find out why.

3

Thanks,

This model, the wiring is pretty much all accessible from the back. The whole control panel goes dead, the delayed clock is just a symptom. It all comes back when you unplug and plug the device. I’ll get in and check for continuity for all the wires to see if anything might be broken, but that could be intermittent as well.

How can I be sure that the error code is really cleared? The door latch works, but the error code is still there. Is it an old code, or is it recurring?

Paul

4

Thanks,

This model, the wiring is pretty much all accessible from the back. The whole control panel goes dead, the delayed clock is just a symptom. It all comes back when you unplug and plug the device. I’ll get in and check for continuity for all the wires to see if anything might be broken, but that could be intermittent as well.

How can I be sure that the error code is really cleared? The door latch works, but the error code is still there. Is it an old code, or is it recurring?

Paul
[RIGHT] [/RIGHT]

Read more: http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/374111-whirlpool-gas-stove-wrong-error-code.html#ixzz1fmdQPqoy
http://forum.appliancepartspros.com

5

I think I might have it narrowed down.

The fault code has to do with mouse pee on the latch switch. I think it is an old fault code that hasn’t cleared. I cleaned the pee, and check the switch, and it works fine, just like it did when I tested the latch.

I traced the wiring, and it is all in great shape. No kinks, chews, hot spots or anything. Good power to the control board and everywhere.

I plugged it back into a different plug so that it can be conveniently unplugged and plugged should the problem reoccur. I don’t think it will because I think the problem is the lower wall outlet itself.

This problem occurs after baking for an extended period of time. Based upon the acting of the stove control, I think that the plug expands in the heat and “disconnects.” The power no longer passes to the oven, the plug cools down and contracts, then you wiggle it and you have power back.

This is not the first time I’ve run into a problem like this, so I’m banking that this is it. If the problem reoccurs with it plugged into a different outlet, then we’re back to square one. We’ll see.

6

Interesting, I have never run into a problem like that.
Thanks for the update.