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Brand:Whirlpool Model Number:WRF76SDHZOO Main Symptom:Lights in fridge and display on door flash What happens & when: open door then close door lights flash then compressor stops running. Unplug and plug back in and it works for a day so
Error Code (if any):
Parts or tests already tried: Circuit board replaced, compressor is working and freezer is cold but fridge isn’t cooling. Checked fan in back of freezer and its only spinning on slow speed, 12.66 volts, white wire to red wire. Blue wire always seems to have 12 volts. Previously you could hear the fan ramp up after closing the door and now you cant.
Photos / video link:
Just to verify, is the model number WRF767SDHZ00? If it is, based on this information, it sounds like there may be a short in a low voltage circuit. If you access the main control and disconnect the wire connection at the connector P10 (this will remove the cabin lights from receiving voltage) does the failure continue?
Yes correct on model number. Unplugged P10 and no change on fan speed. 12.67 volts white to red wire. Even at that voltage the fan needs a little bump to get started spinning sometimes.
Lights haven’t flashed since I put the new board in. Not sure about compressor stopping but fan definitely did stop.I will check compressor and get back to you.
If you access the diagnostic test mode by pressing the ice/water button and the light button at the same time for 3 seconds, a fan test can be done. Press the lock button until the display shows the number 3 and press the temp button twice (display should show 02). This should force voltage to the evaporator fan to operational parameters. Does the fan start to rotate properly? If not, what voltages are present? If you press the temp button two more times, does both the fresh food fan and the freezer fan receive voltage or start to operate? This mode can be exited by pressing and holding the ice/water button and the light button at the same time for 3 seconds or by unplugging the power cord.
So voltage is the same to the freezer fan 12.68 but fan is spinning slow. What is the high voltage that it should get? I don’t think I have a fresh air fan. Can’t find one. It has a fan in the fridge icemaker seems to be working OK. Screen on door looked more like 12 not 02 and temp button didn’t seem to be working quite right , had to push it multiple times to make it work
The icemaker fan would be the one I had in mind, I apologize for my wording. Since the ice maker fan did not operate when the test 02 was initiated, it identifies that there is not a low voltage short on that side that might be interfering with the evaporator fan. Disconnecting the LEDs from the main control also identified they are not interfering either. The evaporator fan receiving 12.67 Volts DC is within the range of tolerance since it would receive 12.7 Volts DC. With the fan rotating slowly, and receiving a rotational signal voltage of 12 Volts DC, the evaporator fan motor would be the most likely cause of failure as it should be rotating properly. Whirlpool W11224591 Bottom-Mount Refrigerator Refrigerator Evaporator Fan Motor | Genuine OEM Part
Thank you for all your help. Fridge is seven years old that same fan got replaced about three or four years ago and LED lights on the ceiling of the fridge have been very dim or almost off for years. Does that mean anything to you?
If the ceiling lights are still dim, I would start with checking the freezer LED. Does it turn on or does it stay off? If it is off, it probably has a short in it that is affecting the fresh food ceiling LEDs. This happens because moisture can get into the LED. The manufacturer came out with an LED kit to make sure all of the LEDs are replaced at the same time if this happens. When it comes to low voltage shorts, they can have the potential to affect parts that wouldn’t normally be expected. It may be possible that a shorted LED could affect the fan over time, or the fan could have just simply failed over the 3-4 year period. There are many factors that can influence how long something like a fan can last.
Well, I went ahead and ordered the LED kit too, trying to eliminate any shorts or draws. One thing I forgot to mention through all this the icemaker in the fridge works fine, but the icemaker in the freezer hasn’t been freezing the ice cubes completely in the dispenser for about a year. Once they hit the tub they freeze up completely but then we have a bunch of cubes that turned into a large clump. Any ideas? Again thank you so much for your help.
With the fan rotating slowly, it is unlikely that the freezer is reaching 0 degrees in a normal amount of time. This can cause the freezer to stay warmer for longer than we would want it after a defrost cycle, causing the ice to do this.