I never seen or heard about such things. I do not know how it can be done technically. If it’s right, that means the oven circuit somehow bypassed the house electric meter. I would do nothing with the oven troubleshooting and repair until it’s fixed by a certified electrician. This is a serious safety issue.
Gene.
[quote=Gene;157289]Try to use the instructions from the following Service manual.
Gene.[/quote]
Appreciate you providing the link to that manual. Ended up that this particular model GBD307PRS01 requires partial removal of the oven from the wall cabinet to expose two screws on either side of the control board housing. Once those 4 screws are removed, the entire control board comes out. I learned this after trying to lift the control panel up and out, which broke the plastic housing around the control panel. Not a big deal since I was able to purchase a replacement housing from this site. After getting the control board pulled out, was able to replace it with no issues at all and everything works great. Thanks a TON for the advice you post out here. You help many folks out.
[quote=mthacker;157045][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000][FONT=Calibri]Thanks in advance for those that post their experiences and the experts (Gene in particular) who post great advice.[/FONT][/COLOR][/SIZE]
[SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000][FONT=Calibri]Same experience as many others in this thread. 3 yr old Whirlpool oven GBD307PRS01 (Stainless) with the E6 F2 error code and symptoms many others describe.[/FONT][/COLOR][/SIZE]
[SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000][FONT=Calibri]My model: Control panel parts replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL GBD307PRS01 30" Built - in Electric Double Oven Convection - Upper Self - Clean (gold Line) | AppliancePartsPros.com[/FONT][/COLOR][/SIZE]
[SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000][FONT=Calibri]Can someone clarify how to remove the control panel to begin the diagnostics? [/FONT][/COLOR][/SIZE][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000][FONT=Calibri]Here are the steps I have gathered from this thread and others:[/FONT][/COLOR][/SIZE]
[SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000][FONT=Calibri]1. Remove the screw holding the each side trim. (DONE)[/FONT][/COLOR][/SIZE]
[SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000][FONT=Calibri]2. Remove both side trims by pulling them from the bottom toward yourself and down to release from the control panel tabs. (DONE)[/FONT][/COLOR][/SIZE]
[SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000][FONT=Calibri]3. Remove the screw on each side of the control panel. (No side screws, only four screws along bottom of control panel in the vented area, which I removed)[/FONT][/COLOR][/SIZE]
[SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000][FONT=Calibri]4. Pull the bottom of the control panel toward yourself and upward to release it from the side tabs. (Nervous about this step, doesn’t budge and I’m not clear on the location of the side tabs)[/FONT][/COLOR][/SIZE]
[FONT=Calibri][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]Any thoughts out there? Thanks everyone.[/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT][/quote]
When removing the GBD307PRS01 model’s control board, note that you need to do the following:
Between steps 2 and 3 above: Remove the screws holding the oven in the wall cabinet and slide the oven out of the wall cabinet a couple inches. This will expose two screws on either side of the control panel at the top of the oven.
Just wanted to say thank you for sharing your repair with us. Your posts are very helpful and informative. Good luck with your oven.
Gene.
[quote=Gene;29103]Looks like the transformer is good.
Do not plug the transformer back into the board.
Power up the oven and check if there is 120VAC between the terminals P16-5 and P16-7 (where the red transformer wires go).
If there is no 120VAC then the control board has to be replaced but there is a chance the control panel is bad too (according to the error code you posted).
In order to provide the right part number for the control panel I need the color of it.
Gene.[/quote]
I am having a similar problem, but my display is completely blank. When I try to turn the oven on I get 1 short beeb followed by one long beep and then three short beeps.
I tried the procedure outlined above…looks like the transformer is OK but I am only getting about 60 VAC across the two pins the red wires are connected to.
I assume this indicates the control board is not functioning properly, is it likely that if I replace that then it will solve the problem?
Thanks,
RH
[quote=RH2010;214139]I am having a similar problem, but my display is completely blank. When I try to turn the oven on I get 1 short beeb followed by one long beep and then three short beeps.
I tried the procedure outlined above…looks like the transformer is OK but I am only getting about 60 VAC across the two pins the red wires are connected to.
I assume this indicates the control board is not functioning properly, is it likely that if I replace that then it will solve the problem?
Thanks,
RH[/quote]
Sorry for the delay.
What is the complete model number of the oven?
Gene.
Ok, I feel kind of dumb. I have a GBD307PRS01 and was getting the E6 F2 codes also, for a while it came back and worked after leaving the breaker off for a bit, I left the breaker off for about 30 minutes yesterday but still have the same problem with the beeping (1 short, 1 long, 3 short) though the oven light turns on. Sounds like I need a new control board?
I was going to try to access the board but can’t seem to get to it. I removed the 4 screws, 2 on either side of both doors, but they don’t come off as it seems they’re held in by the bottom and top pieces. I was going to try to take the doors off, (screws blocked by them) but cant figure it out. I realize that I’ll probably have to slide the oven out of the cabinet as was mentioned in another post, but without getting these sides off, I cant even touch the screws.
If you could tell me how to get this off and access the board, and what part number I can order through this site I would appreciate it.
[quote=thoffland;217335]Ok, I feel kind of dumb. I have a GBD307PRS01 and was getting the E6 F2 codes also, for a while it came back and worked after leaving the breaker off for a bit, I left the breaker off for about 30 minutes yesterday but still have the same problem with the beeping (1 short, 1 long, 3 short) though the oven light turns on. Sounds like I need a new control board?
I was going to try to access the board but can’t seem to get to it. I removed the 4 screws, 2 on either side of both doors, but they don’t come off as it seems they’re held in by the bottom and top pieces. I was going to try to take the doors off, (screws blocked by them) but cant figure it out. I realize that I’ll probably have to slide the oven out of the cabinet as was mentioned in another post, but without getting these sides off, I cant even touch the screws.
If you could tell me how to get this off and access the board, and what part number I can order through this site I would appreciate it.[/quote]
You do not have to remove doors or any screws on or at the doors. You do have to open the lower oven door and remove the screw holding the each side trim. Then follow the instructions posted by [COLOR=purple]mthacker[/COLOR] on 02-08-2010 in this thread.
Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL GBD307PRS01 30" Built - in Electric Double Oven Convection - Upper Self - Clean (gold Line) | AppliancePartsPros.com
Gene.
Thanks Gene, I did see that thread but the side panels weren’t coming off… I’ll go back and try again and let you know what happens.
I’ll also go through the steps you mentioned earlier in the thread to test the control board.
Ok, I was able to remove the side panels and got to the control panel. I removed the panel and turned the breakers back on, it’s been sitting for 2 hours and no lights on the board. I guess I need a new control board.
The site says they are out of stock, is this something you recieve regularly? Or should I look elsewhere for the part I need? If I should go somewhere else, where would you recommend?
This looks to be the right part
Part Details - WHIRLPOOL Electronic control, part number: AP3873768
Thanks again for your help.
[quote=thoffland;217830]Ok, I was able to remove the side panels and got to the control panel. I removed the panel and turned the breakers back on, it’s been sitting for 2 hours and no lights on the board. I guess I need a new control board.
The site says they are out of stock, is this something you recieve regularly? Or should I look elsewhere for the part I need? If I should go somewhere else, where would you recommend?
This looks to be the right part
Part Details - WHIRLPOOL Electronic control, part number: AP3873768
Thanks again for your help.[/quote]
Looks like this is a new problem?
Do not rush with the control board.
Double check all wires and connections. Make sure there is 120 VAC between the Black (P24-3) and White (P24-1) wires to the control board.
Check for continuity Between the two Red wires and the two Blue wires at the low voltage transformer (#6 on the diagram).
Post the results.
Here is Tech sheet.
Gene.
Here’s an update Gene,
I don’t have an ohm meter so I cannot test the voltage, I can see if a neighbor has one if need be, just haven’t had time yet.
I did leave the power on all night and this morning it was displaying “E1 F2”.
I just got home and checked all of the connections and pushed them all to make sure they were in tightly. When I powered it back up, it said “PF 4:15”. Obviously the clock is a little off… then it went back to “E1 F2” again.
Another update: I read that the E1 F2 was related to not having the control panel connected, so I put the control panel back on and lo and behold, it seems to be working again. I have a feeling the problem will come back, but I’ll let you know if/when that happens.
Thanks again for all your help, I really appreciate it!
You are welcome. Keep us posted.
Gene.
The very first time having problem was the oven suddenly locking itself while baking, maybe one year ago. No more problems until Last month, when E6 F2 started to appear. At first, simply hitting cancel would clear the problem. Later, the oven would randomly go beep beep beep and/or shut off by itself.
I decided to replace the control board. To do so, I had to remove the trim, slide the oven out of the cabinet, and remove two screws on each side as detailed in one of the posts above.
After replacing the control board, there was no response after hitting off/cancel and/or the whole display would light up. I determined that the ribbon cable connections were no good. The ribbon cable connections should be coated with what appears to be graphite, but some areas did not appear to have enough coating. My solution was to literally write a thick layer of graphite on the ribbon cable connections using a mechanical pencil (the pencil lead is graphite based).
It has been a week. No more random beeping, no more E6 F2. The oven was just being used today. Toward the end of the first baking job, after hitting off/cancel, the oven reset itself. The whole display lit up, the clock reset to 12:00, and then showed locked. The second baking job went through fine (did not try to hit off/cancel toward the end).
The fact that hitting off/cancel would cause the oven to reset indicates that the oven still is not fixed. What can cause this?
What should I replace next? The control panel? The sister board? The transformer? The suppressor? Anything else?
If I end up replacing the control panel, I would also replace the transformer because the transformer is cheap.
Just replace the transformer?
What does the suppressor do?
What does the sister board do?
The sister board is a power board for the door locks.
The suppressor is an electronic filter which protects the control board.
In the situation you described, I would replace the membrane switch and the sister board. If you need the correct part number for the membrane switch, post the color of it.
Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL GBD307PRS00 30" Built - in Electric Double Oven Convection - Upper Self - Clean (gold Line) | AppliancePartsPros.com
Here is the Tech sheet.
Gene.
Hi Gene,
I was reading your reply to Shawn concerning his E6 F2 problem. I have a Whirlpool double oven GBD307PDB10 (black) that is giving me the same code. I tried removing the front and unplugging the ribbon cable but to no avail. When I turned the power back on, the screen was still blank. This originally started on March 19 but less than a day later, the lights came back on and it ran good for almost 2 months. Now it has happened 3 times in the last week. As I read through Shawn’s post and your answers, the is mention of control board and control panel. Gene, what is the difference between the control board and the control panel? Thanks Gene for any help. Denise in Minnesota
Denise,
The control board is actually a microcomputer which operates with all functions of the oven (#3 on the diagram) while the control panel is a device which helps to communicate between you and your oven and it has a touch pad (#1 on the diagram).
According to your description, looks like the problem is a bad control board.
Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL GBD307PDB10 30" Built - in Electric Double Oven Convection - Upper Self - Clean (gold Line) | AppliancePartsPros.com
Gene.
Hi Gene,
Thanks so much for explaining the difference to me. When I got home today, the code E6 F2 was lit up. I pushed the upper oven off button and the clock appeared. It can be good for a few days or a few weeks but I would hate for it to go out in the middle of something so I am going to work on it now. Thanks again for your help. I really enjoy reading your replies Gene. You give good, easy to understand instructions.
Thank you Denise for your good words. Keep us posted.
Gene.
Hi Gene,
I also have a GBD307PDB10 with the E6 F2 error.
I’ve read all of the posts here and I don’t know which problem I have.
A few days back my display went out. After trying to find which breaker it was on to see if I could reset it I went back to check and saw the error. A few minutes later the oven clock turned back on and I tested it; worked fine.
The next day I came downstairs the oven display was off again and no error ever came back up. The oven beeps at me when trying to turn it on.
I found this site/thread when looking up the error codes and followed the following:
So this is where I am now. I don’t know if it’s the control board or control panel.
PN AP3595759 is the control board
PN AP3131916 is the control panel
Are those the only parts I need? Should I replace the control panel first (it’s cheaper)?
Also the control board has what appears to be a heated up resistor as evident by a blackish halo around D73 & R188 towards the top.
I also, like another poster, don’t have a separate breaker for this damn oven and it’s a newer house built 5 years ago. I’ve shut off every single breaker in the box and the light bulb in the oven still stays on! I’m going to call the builder and see what they have to say about this. There’s got to be a code in the NEC or something. Looks like I’ll have to shut down the entire house main to swap boards.
Not trying to kill myself with 220 volts!
Thanks
BTW,
Hope you had a great Memorial Day