What is the part number of the control board you are looking for?
Gene.
E6F2 error codes generally mean the control board is on the way out, especially if you’re seeing a blank screen. Replacing the keypad or cleaning the ribbon is only delaying the inevitable. But you don’t have to buy a new controller (especially since many of them are no longer available). Running a google search for ************************ should lead you to a company that can repair oven controllers.
Hi Gene -
I am looking to order AP3767567 for my RBD275PDQ8, but I was told it is discontinued. Can you confirm or help me find one? I’d rather get a new one then track down an old one.
Thanks
Cody
Hi Cody,
I did search for this part and I found that it is still available but it’s on a back order. You have to talk to the APP team to find ETA.
Gene.
[quote=Gene;686356]Hi Cody,
I did search for this part and I found that it is still available but it’s on a back order. You have to talk to the APP team to find ETA.
Gene.[/quote]
Thanks Gene. I talked to them a couple days ago and they said it was discontinued. Any other ideas on how I could get a board, so I can fix my oven? Or do I need to buy an entirely new oven? Thanks for your help.
Hello Gene,
I have Whirlpool Model # GBD307PRQ01 Similar situation that others have posted. Display goes out mid-bake cycle. Oven heat and light still work. Display comes back slowly. Today error code E6 F2 came on. What steps should I take to determine issue. I have read the thread but want to make sure I do things in the right order.
Thanks for all of your help.
Marcie
Hello Marcie,
Very likely the problem is a bad control board. Especially because of the display which goes on & off.
- The control board AP6021413
You can call the APP customer service to find the part ETA.
Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for Whirlpool GBD307PRQ01 30" BUILT-IN ELECTRIC DOUBLE OVEN CONVECTION-UPPER SELF-CLEAN (GOLD LINE) | AppliancePartsPros.com
Gene.
[QUOTE=Gene;693322]Hello Marcie,
Very likely the problem is a bad control board. Especially because of the display which goes on & off.
- The control board AP6021413
You can call the APP customer service to find the part ETA.
Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for Whirlpool GBD307PRQ01 30" BUILT-IN ELECTRIC DOUBLE OVEN CONVECTION-UPPER SELF-CLEAN (GOLD LINE) | AppliancePartsPros.com
Gene.[/QUOTE]
Is there a way or something to check that might be loose?
Unfortunately there are no such parts. I understand you point. This part is very expensive, but this is the only way to fix it.
Gene.
Hi Gene,
I have posted this a couple of days ago but maybe you can provide some insight as I have been following you with the repair.
My double oven stop working a month ago. After I have changed thermal fuse and control panel, it worked, for one night! The next morning, it stopped working again. I checked to find out the fuse is out and I remembered that the R90-92 to be hot. So I order a control board and new thermal fuse. I put them back tonight and it worked! However I found that the parts R90-92 were pretty hot, and I am afraid that something else is wrong besides the board. Should these parts be hot? Is there a way to check? Would I not doing the program cavity size cause the problem? Thanks in advance!
Aimin
Hi Aimin,
You do have to program the cavity size as instructed in the tech sheet.
Have you used the self clean prior to the problem with the control panel thermal fuse?
This fuse designed to protect the control board from overheating and I don’t think any resistors in the control board can affect it.
Make sure the control panel thermal fuse is routed away from the oven’s exhaust vent.
Gene.
Thanks Gene! I did try the reprogram and the resistors are still pretty hot—though I didn’t know if it’s normal or not. I never use the self clean feature and it just went dark one night. I ordered the thermal fuse and then read on this forum to order the control panel. Once I put the new control panel on, it worked but went bad next morning. The thermal fuse was kind of fixed in a way so I am not sure if I could move it. Thanks again for your help!
Aimin
Aimin,
I’m afraid I did not get clear why did you replace the control panel. Did you do it just in case or it was something wrong?
Did the cavity size programming go through smooth?
What is the complete model number of the oven?
Gene.
Dear Gene,
Our double oven (Model #GBD277PDB09) went down but the light still on. After reading this forum, I bought the thermal fuse AP3110028, which is different from the original as it has two connectors for the wire. However, from the discussion here it is the one for my model. So I replaced the fuse by putting the wire into one connector on the opposite of the incoming wire in the fuse (?). It didn’t work and after more reading, I ordered the control panel AP3131956 from here. Once I put the new control panel in, it worked although we kind of noticing the resistors (R90-92) were pretty hot. With excitement we went to sleep. The next morning, however, the oven went dark again. We reasoned that since it was good for a time, it must be the control board that went bad. From what I read from here, I think I did check the transformer and the the voltage and the fuse seems to have blown. Again for the transformer part I am not too sure. So after some time I reordered the thermal fuse and control board AP5272198. We put it in and yes it did work! And I did do the cavity reprogram yesterday without problem. Still the few resistors were pretty hot, so I am afraid that something is bad. So I thought I better check with the expert before it broke on me again. Thanks in advance for your help and I appreciate very much for your time.
Aimin
Hi Gene,
Just check the transformer. It seems to have different reading on different settings( x10 vs. x100). On the x100 the upper red read 140 and the lower blue read 50, while on x10 the upper is 6 and the lower is 4-5. Without plug the transformer, the voltage between p16-5 and p16-7 is 120V. Does this mean that the transformer is the culprit? Thanks in advance!
Aimin
Set the meter scale on x1 and redo the transformer test. Measure the resistance between the blue wires and between the red wires separately. Post the results. Keep the power to the oven off so far.
If the original control panel thermal fuse looks like the fuse on the following picture, you have to order and instal that one because they are designed for a different temperatures.
- The thermal fuse AP6009502
Gene.
Thanks, Gene! Unfortunately the one I have didn’t have x1, but I think from the other readings it likely went bad. I have ordered the transformer. I will try to see if I could find a better meter to check. As for the thermal fuse, yes the original one is indeed like the one you posted. So I actually should buy AP3777386 instead of the one that are for my model ( I actually bought two of these already). Thank you so much for your help!
Aimin
You are welcome Aimin. Keep us posted.
Gene.
Hi Gene,
Received the new fuse and new transformer. Redid the measurement and I think both new and old transformers seems to be good Upper is about 80 and lower is <1. Connected to power without the control panel, still the resistors are hot especially the big R1BB (the R90-92 were hot but not like before). Should these be hot? I am doubtful that they should be with only the power on. Your suggestion will be highly appreciated.
Aimin
Aimin,
It is normal for any resistor to get hot due to energy transfer.
Gene.