Whirlpool EVL181NXTQ upright freezer is not freezing food top to bottom in the freeze

Refrigerator & Freezer Repair
1

[COLOR=#004080][FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]What would cause a Whirlpool EVL181NXTQ upright freezer not freeze food top to bottom in the freezer?[/SIZE][/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#004080][FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]1. My neighbor gave me her freezer because it was not freezing food on approx middle shelf vs top an bottoms. She said the 07-08 circulating fan had been replaced twice.[/SIZE][/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#004080][FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]2. Experimenting, I placed bottles on water on top, middle and bottom shelves. Plus, a thermometer on the bottom shelf that registered 20 degrees. In approx 12 hrs the top and bottom water were frozen (but smaller). 24 hrs later I noticed the middle bottle was frozen with the freezer “still running”.[/SIZE][/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#004080][FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]3. Searching, I read the freezing problem could be the cooling coil might be restricted and not frosting even bottom to top. Investigating, I found the coil at the bottom only vs full height but circulating fan felt to be pushing air out the top vents. BUT! The coil was not frosted even bottom to top, with the bottom being heavier but all had a good frost. Could that be a problem?[/SIZE][/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#004080][FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]5. My goal is to replace my working small freezer but not if the larger has a true problem.[/SIZE][/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#004080][FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]6. What is the past record of problems or nature of this freezer??[/SIZE][/FONT][/COLOR]

[COLOR=#004080][FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]Thanks In Advance![/SIZE][/FONT][/COLOR]

2

[COLOR=#004080][FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]The freezer appears to be freezing water on all 3 shelves hard but I have not ever found it not running.[/SIZE][/FONT][/COLOR]
[SIZE=3][/SIZE]
[LIST]

  • [COLOR=#004080][FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]Would sitting in Car-Port’s shade outside in the TX heat 70s -90s around the clock cause it to run constantly?[/SIZE][/FONT][/COLOR]
  • [COLOR=#004080][FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]Is testing the freezer empty causing it to run constantly?[/SIZE][/FONT][/COLOR]
  • [COLOR=#004080][FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]How can I tell if the freezer has a good charge vs low and causing problems?[/SIZE][/FONT][/COLOR]
  • [COLOR=#004080][FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]I’ll plan to test it 2-3 weeks before trusting it and monitor it close daily weeks.[/SIZE][/FONT][/COLOR]
  • [COLOR=#004080][FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]The eventual location will be the recessed patio that is always out of the sun. [/SIZE][/FONT][/COLOR][/LIST][FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#004080]Thank You![/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]
3

[COLOR=#004080][FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]Do you have a link to the owner’s manual? I feel having the freezer set at the extreme coldest temp “empty” is possibly causing it to run constantly.[/SIZE][/FONT][/COLOR]

[COLOR=#004080][FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]I noticed the red light blinking at the bottom and wonder if that is a trouble code? Is there a computer board in this freezer vs sensors?[/SIZE][/FONT][/COLOR]

[COLOR=#004080][FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]I noticed pipe putty inside and outside where the refrigerant line from the compressor to the inside coil is frail as a possible leak. Without a solid seal due to feeling I’m hearing a vacuum seal, could that be a problem?[/SIZE][/FONT][/COLOR]

[COLOR=#004080][FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]The unit is young and running that makes me think I’m missing a needed service. If the unit was running initially with a proper charge and freezes now is the charge possibly not the issue? [/SIZE][/FONT][/COLOR]

4

Here are your parts.
You seem to be missing the last two digits of the model number so you will have to choose one from the Matching Model Numbers section.
Parts for EVL181NXTQ - AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is the operators manual
http://www.whirlpool.com/digitalassets/MLPDF/Use%20and%20Care%20Guide%20-%201-82515-001.pdf

See the attachment for the wiring diagram.
It is the same for all revisions of this unit.

[COLOR=“Blue”]3. Searching, I read the freezing problem could be the cooling coil might be restricted and not frosting even bottom to top. Investigating, I found the coil at the bottom only vs full height but circulating fan felt to be pushing air out the top vents. BUT! The coil was not frosted even bottom to top, with the bottom being heavier but all had a good frost. Could that be a problem?[/COLOR]
Sorry but I do not understand the above.
The evaporator coils should have a fairly even coting on frost on them.

[COLOR=“Blue”]Would sitting in Car-Port’s shade outside in the TX heat 70s -90s around the clock cause it to run constantly?[/COLOR]
It should cycle when the temperature is in the 70’s.

[COLOR=“Blue”]Is testing the freezer empty causing it to run constantly?[/COLOR]
It will take much longer to reach set point temperature, perhaps a couple days.

[COLOR=“Blue”]How can I tell if the freezer has a good charge vs low and causing problems?[/COLOR]
Sounds like you have does this already though from your description I am not sure that the unit is OK.
Below is a link about this problem. Check out the example pictures part way down the page.
http://www.applianceaid.com/refrigerator-not-cold-enough.php
[COLOR=“Blue”]
Do you have a link to the owner’s manual?[/COLOR]
See above

[COLOR=“Blue”]I feel having the freezer set at the extreme coldest temp “empty” is possibly causing it to run constantly.[/COLOR]
You never said what the thermometer read after the unit had run for a day of so.
The freezer should be at 0 to 5 degrees F.
[COLOR=“Blue”]
I noticed the red light blinking at the bottom and wonder if that is a trouble code?[/COLOR]
No.

[COLOR=“Blue”]Is there a computer board in this freezer vs sensors?[/COLOR]
No
[COLOR=“Blue”]
Without a solid seal due to feeling I’m hearing a vacuum seal, could that be a problem?[/COLOR]
Any air leak to the outside is a problem.
[COLOR=“Blue”]
The unit is young and running that makes me think I’m missing a needed service. If the unit was running initially with a proper charge and freezes now is the charge possibly not the issue?[/COLOR]
Sorry but I do not understand the above.
If the evaporator coils/frost coverage looks oK then it is not a sealed system problem.
Be sure that the compressor has run at least an hour before checking the coils. If you check them shortly after or during a defrost cycle then you may end up with the weong diagnosis.

Check/clean any vents on the front and back of the unit.
Check/clean the condenser coils under the unit.
Check the door seal. Take a two inch wide strip of paper and insert it between the frame and the seal. Then pull it out to check the seal. Work your way around the door every 6 inches or so.
Check the hinge side of the seal to be sure it is not grabbing and twisting when you close the door. If it is then a light coating of white lithium grease or vaseline usualy fixes this.
EVL181.pdf (94.5 KB)

5

[COLOR=#004080][FONT=Times New Roman]Thanks for the detailed info that will take me a while to completely investigate. I want to share some updates and try and explain questions that you mentioned were not [/FONT][/COLOR][COLOR=#004080][FONT=Times New Roman]understood.[/FONT][/COLOR]

[COLOR=blue][FONT=Verdana]3. Searching, I read the freezing problem could be the cooling coil might be restricted and not frosting even bottom to top. Investigating, I found the coil at the bottom only vs full height but circulating fan felt to be pushing air out the top vents. BUT! The coil was not frosted even bottom to top, with the bottom being heavier but all had a good frost. Could that be a problem?[/FONT][/COLOR]
[FONT=Verdana][COLOR=black]Sorry but I do not understand the above.[/COLOR][/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana][COLOR=black]The evaporator coils should have a fairly even coting on frost on them.[/COLOR][/FONT]

[COLOR=teal][FONT=Verdana]The fairly even frost coil is at the very bottom of int with lowest section designed with fewer fins had slightly heaver frost.[/FONT][/COLOR]

[COLOR=teal][FONT=Verdana]I could not spot your ref as a pic showing frost on a coil but I think mine would be even since it only changes with the fins being more or less.[/FONT][/COLOR]

[COLOR=black][FONT=Verdana]2. [/FONT][/COLOR][COLOR=blue][FONT=Verdana]I feel having the freezer set at the extreme coldest temp “empty” is possibly causing it to run constantly.[/FONT][/COLOR]
[FONT=Verdana][COLOR=black]You never said what the thermometer read after the unit had run for a day of so.[/COLOR][/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana][COLOR=black]The freezer should be at 0 to 5 degrees F.[/COLOR][/FONT]

[COLOR=teal][FONT=Verdana]I have only seen the thermometer at approx 15 degrees set on the coldest two days.[/FONT][/COLOR]

[COLOR=blue][FONT=Verdana]The unit is young and running that makes me think I’m missing a needed service. If the unit was running initially with a proper charge and freezes now is the charge possibly not the issue?[/FONT][/COLOR]
[FONT=Verdana][COLOR=black]Sorry but I do not understand the above.[/COLOR][/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana][COLOR=black]If the evaporator coils/frost coverage looks oK then it is not a sealed system problem.[/COLOR][/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana][COLOR=black]Be sure that the compressor has run at least an hour before checking the coils. If you check them shortly after or during a defrost cycle then you may end up with the weong diagnosis.[/COLOR][/FONT]

[COLOR=teal][FONT=Verdana]Since the evaporator coils/frost coverage looks oK IMO and I am only getting down to about 15 degrees could that be saying I could be having a sealing issue? I notice the door is sucked in tight when I close it but it does not appear to keep that sucked tight seal due to it will open easier later but appears to be sealed. Where is the suction coming from and how long should it last?[/FONT][/COLOR]

[COLOR=teal][FONT=Verdana]With the tamp set on 4-5 I noticed the thermometer is just below 30 degrees. I have heard it cycle off at this setting. At what temp or lowest temp would you say there is no issue with the freezer? Is a common wall thermometer OK for the testing and I added a 2nd to compare them as good or not? [/FONT][/COLOR]

[COLOR=#333333][FONT=Verdana]Check/clean the condenser coils under the unit.[/FONT][/COLOR]

[COLOR=teal][FONT=Verdana]I am not seeing a rear coil period. I feel it they are in the worm side walls that I feel. Manny Thanks Again!![/FONT][/COLOR]

6

[COLOR=“Blue”]I could not spot your ref as a pic showing frost on a coil but I think mine would be even since it only changes with the fins being more or less.[/COLOR]
Below are links to the pictures.
http://www.applianceaid.com/images/innificientsystem.jpg
http://www.applianceaid.com/images/364a.jpg
http://www.applianceaid.com/images/Freezer2.jpg

[COLOR=“Blue”]I have only seen the thermometer at approx 15 degrees set on the coldest two days.[/COLOR]
This is too warm.

[COLOR=“Blue”]Since the evaporator coils/frost coverage looks oK IMO and I am only getting down to about 15 degrees could that be saying I could be having a sealing issue?[/COLOR]
Could be but checking the seal around the doors should eliminate this as a possible cause

[COLOR=“Blue”]Where is the suction coming from and how long should it last?[/COLOR]
I think the suction you see is just from the temperature/pressure difference between the freezer and ambient air. After some time this pressure equalizes through the evaporator defrost drain hole.
What you see is normal.

[COLOR=“Blue”]At what temp or lowest temp would you say there is no issue with the freezer? [/COLOR]
It should be able to get down to at least 5 degrees F.

[COLOR=“Blue”]Is a common wall thermometer OK for the testing and I added a 2nd to compare them as good or not?[/COLOR]
Yes it should do the job.

[COLOR=“Blue”]I am not seeing a rear coil period. I feel it they are in the worm side walls that I feel.[/COLOR]
Take a look in the parts. The condenser coils are Item 28 in Section 03.
There is a possibility that the ambient temperature is just too warm so the condenser coils cannot get rid of enough heat.
I would remove the rear cover and then get a fan to blow air from the back out through the front kick plate.
If the freezer temperature drops it is a good indicator that the outside temperature is just too warm.
Be sure that the louvers are clean on the front kick plate when doing this.

7

[COLOR=teal][FONT=Verdana]I feel I made some progress.[/FONT][/COLOR]

[COLOR=teal][FONT=Verdana]1. I found the “Clean” condenser coil riming the front paned and pan.[/FONT][/COLOR]

[COLOR=teal][FONT=Verdana]2. Why are the ext side walls warm that made me think it was new tech?[/FONT][/COLOR]

[COLOR=teal][FONT=Verdana]3. I found a leak where the line enters the freezer, crumbling pipe putty. Is there a black putty that works better?[/FONT][/COLOR]

[COLOR=teal][FONT=Verdana]4. I left the front panel off, pan out to see how low it will go. Then I will turn the box fan on the coil to see if it goes lower.[/FONT][/COLOR]

[COLOR=teal][FONT=Verdana]5. I doubt the ext heat on the patio gets below 70 this time of yr in North TX. Freezers have always worked well in the recess area opened to the south (with direct sun not getting approx within 10’). Our personal is the 2nd there since 1973.[/FONT][/COLOR]

[COLOR=teal][FONT=Verdana]6. If the 18 cu ft proves to work, we’ll go back to the 18 and give the 12 to our daughter that we downsized to. I retired or slowed on my fishing but realized the 12 stays packed full.[/FONT][/COLOR]

[COLOR=teal][FONT=Verdana]Thanks Again and I’ll post the final results. [/FONT][/COLOR]

8

[COLOR=#004080][FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]1. I did see 0 and 5 degrees on the thermometers this morning (in approx 70 degree weather and no box fan.[/SIZE][/FONT][/COLOR]

[COLOR=#004080][FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]2. I feel there was no cycling on/off at the coldest setting (not energy efficient). What is the suggested or ideal int temp to freeze food? A temp that should allow the freezer to cycle off/on related to use.[/SIZE][/FONT][/COLOR]

[COLOR=#004080][FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]Thank![/SIZE][/FONT][/COLOR]

9

[COLOR=#004080][FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]I finally settled down to view your links and read the good info. The info answered many of my questions. It also shows the freezer is not cold enough to cycle on/off in a normal setting. I placed a thermometer in our Frigidaire Freezer that cycles very little (that I know of) when not opened and it went to Zero quick. [/SIZE][/FONT][/COLOR]

[COLOR=#004080][FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]My last thought is to lightly strap the door tighter since I can hear the sound of air being sucked past the door’s seal. OR! Try the other door seal test mentioned before with paper stripes before I donate it to the next interested person. [/SIZE][/FONT][/COLOR]

[COLOR=#004080][FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]Thanks and any last suggestions?[/SIZE][/FONT][/COLOR]

10

[COLOR=#004080][FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]I have exhausted my efforts after winching the door tighter with a strap. The temp went down to approx 17 degrees with cycles per hr at least with the temp setting 4-5. Next, I tried the pulling a 2” wide strip of normal printer paper through the seal feeling for resistance which I did feel every 4-6” all around.[/SIZE][/FONT][/COLOR]

[COLOR=#004080][FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]I ask my Son-In-Law if he would give the freezer a ride to our close GoodWill Store. He feels the freezer is too nice to give-up that easy. He feels it’s a timing issue and wants to have it serviced. I suggested that he only have a Personal Experienced Tech look at the Freezer that has parts to try vs spending a penny. BUT! If a Tech take him up on the deal and find/fix it to work as it should, “He Owes The Tech. This could easily work since I feel there are some Refrigeration Techs on his job at a Brewery.[/SIZE][/FONT][/COLOR]

[COLOR=#004080][FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]Any opinions on my seal tests or it being a timing issue?? [/SIZE][/FONT][/COLOR]

11

Did you ever find a resolution to this problem? I’m having the same issue with a GE upright freezer. Thinking it might be a fan that needs to be replaced? Thanks