Our Whirlpool electric dryer is working well except for the heat regulation.
No matter what setting we move the temperature selector to, the heating element stays on high.
Just replaced the heating element as it had a broken element as well as thermal fuse with thermal cut off kit.
What should I be looking for? Is it as simple as replacing the selector switch, or something else?
Thank you!
Here are your parts
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL GEQ8858EQ0 ELECTRIC DRYER | AppliancePartsPros.com
See the attachment for the wiring diagram
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL GEQ8858EQ0 ELECTRIC DRYER | AppliancePartsPros.com
Be sure to unplug the unit.
First I would check the heating element just to be sure it is not grounded.
Unplug the unit and both wires to the heating coil.
Check it with a meter, should be around 8 to 12 ohms.
Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case. This can cause it to run on high.
Next I would check the operating thermostat’s internal heater (5600 to 8400 ohms). This is turned on for lower temperature settings. It adds heat to the thermostat so it cycles more often resulting in the unit producing less heat.
If OK check that the timer contacts BK to V close on low temperature settings.
If OK I would replace the operating thermostat as it’s contacts may be welded together. You can do a rough check of this by heating up it’s face to see if they open. I use my soldering gun but you could do it on a stove top. Just be careful that you do not burn yourself.
It will tell you if they open but not at what temperature. So itthey do not open you know it is toast. If they do open it still could be toast as it might be opening at too high of a temperature.
If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
- Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
- Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
- When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale’s dynamic range.
- When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.
There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it’s use.