Hi there: Our 8 year old Whirlpool double oven is completely dead. For the first time ever, we tried out the self cleaning cycle and right after the cycle completed, the unit went dead. The last thing I remember seeing on the digital readout during the end of the self clean cycle was “cool”, which tells me it went through the entire self cleaning cycle. The door will open, but the lights do not work and the digital panel is dead.
I tried the breaker switch, it looked fine (it shares a 160 amp breaker with our dryer which is working fine).
[LEFT]There is the thermal fuse plugged in the control board which has to be replaced.[/LEFT]
[CENTER]The thermal fuse[/CENTER]
[CENTER][/CENTER]
[LEFT]Turn off the circuit breaker for the oven.[/LEFT]
[LEFT]Open the lower oven door. Remove the screw holding the each side trim (#1 on the oven break down diagram) and remove both side trims by pulling them from the bottom toward yourself and down to release from the control panel tabs.[/LEFT]
[LEFT]Remove the screw on each side of the control panel. Pull the bottom of the control panel toward yourself and upward to release it from the side tabs.[/LEFT]
[LEFT]Here are the break down diagrams for the Whirlpool oven Model RBD306PDB1[/LEFT]
[LEFT]Gene.[/LEFT]
[LEFT]P.S. To avoid such problems it’s better not to use the self clean.[/LEFT]
[LEFT]P.P.S. The 160 Amp breaker is way too much. According to the installation instructions an oven and a dryer must have a separate circuit breakers with no more than 30 to 40 Amps.[/LEFT]
I just wanted to say thank you for your advice on replacing the thermal fuse as that was the exact problem! We were able to replace the part for around $20 versus having to pay a couple of hundred to have an appliance guy come in. Thank you!
[LEFT]"Open the lower oven door. Remove the screw holding the each side trim (#1 on the oven break down diagram) and remove both side trims by pulling them from the bottom toward yourself and down to release from the control panel tabs. Remove the screw on each side of the control panel. Pull the bottom of the control panel toward yourself and upward to release it from the side tabs.
[B]Now it’s all yours."
[/B]Many thanks! This repair was easy, thanks to you.
[/LEFT]
My issue: Used the Auto Clean. Everything shut down an hour or so into the cycle. Door locked and display blank. I let things cool off and turned off the circuit breaker for about 15 min. Reset breaker with not effect.
Found the forum and tried to find the thermal fuse to see if that might be the issue. Found what I think is the fuse but it does not seem to be blown. See attachment. So is this the fuse? Is it blown? If it looks ok, what is the next thing to check?
You have to measure it with a meter to tell if it is blown.
Should be 0 ohms.
If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale’s dynamic range.
When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.
There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it’s use.
This is probably a real dumb question. but where to you put the leads when measuring. Referencing the attached picture, I took the connector off of the right side. but I am not sure where to put the probe on the left side. the left side is attached to the control panel. Does touching the cylinder thing work?
Thanks
Thanks for the quick responce. I cleaned the wire and got and infinity reading. So the fuse needs to be replaced. I tried to gentle disconnect the fuse from the control board and it doesn’t seem to want to come lose. I didn’t want to force it.
If i replace it and it still doesn’t work, what are the next steps?
I think this is the fuse you need but double check with the parts people.You will need your model number. AP6009502
There is a pin that holds it in place in a plastic casing. Use a small flat head screw driver to push the pin flat to loosen it from the casing.
Some release from the front others from the back of the connector, the following may help.
Our Whirlpool double oven is dead after self cleaning the bottom over. I saw your instructions for replacing the fuse but the door to the lower oven is locked. Anything I can do to open it?
Gene #2 Post 14 years ago, thanks for posting this! I followed your advice, found the thermo fuse, checked it with a meter, and sure enough it was blown. You saved me tons of money. Was about to buy a new wall oven.
I just wanted to say thank you for your advice on replacing the thermal fuse as that was the exact problem! We were able to replace the part for around $20 versus having to pay a couple of hundred to have an appliance guy come in. Thank you!