I just bought a home and ran the self clean on the oven to clean a mess the previous owner left behind. It was nearing completion when it just went blank.
After some research I’m guessing it’s the thermal fuse. How do I order a fuse if I cannot get the door open (it was locked when it went out and remains locked) to find the model number. I’m also guessing I’ll need to get the door open anyway to replace the fuse. I’m stuck and my fiancé is anxious to use our new kitchen, please help.
Ok I was able to get the door open using a bent metal strap. The model number of the oven is rbd305pd86.
What is the most likely culprit for this problem? The oven is acting as though it has no power, it won’t do anything at all. I have flipped the breaker several times slowly, that didn’t fix anything. I am assuming thermal fuse but I don’t know which one I need or if there is more than one in there?
Thanks for any help you can provide.
Most likely the problem is a bad control panel thermal fuse which plugs into the wire harness connected to the control board. You also may want to check for continuity the oven shut down thermal fuse on the back of the oven (#37 at the diagram). You can test it from the front (behind the control panel) by checking for continuity between the terminals P6-3 (R) or P6-4(OR) and the Red wire at the terminal block. If there is no continuity then the thermal fuse is bad.
The best way to avoid such problems in the future is not to use the self clean any more. This is design error for all such ovens.
Gene.
Ok I replaced the thermal fuse behind the control panel. Everything looks and acts normal but the oven will not heat up. Another blown thermal fuse somewhere else? Please help
Did you check it?
Gene.
Unfortunately your instructions for testing that part were a little over my head so once it was clear the first fuse was blown I was
Hoping that was it. When I jumped that fuse temporarily everything lit up and I assumed the problem was solved.
I just removed the oven to test that part in the back and it too is bad.
I guess that’s the next step.
What are these fuses rated at? Seems crazy that it would get so hot that it would blow
This is very common problem for such ovens. Usually it happens during self cleaning due to a hot air escaped through the door and directed to the back of the oven by the blower. It;s also important to route the control panel fuse away fro the oven vent tube.
The best solution to prevent such problems is not to use the self clean.
The fuse rating is marked on the fuse.
Gene.
Ok, replaced both of those fuses and things seem to be working well for the top oven. My fiance just called to say that the bottom oven is not working! I’m not sure we’ve ever tried it before aside from when the home inspector supposedly tested it.
Are there similar thermal fuses for the bottom oven that could have gone bad on that self clean that fried the other 2 fuses?
Thanks, you guys have been a huge help and your parts are saving me a ton of money.
Are both Bake and Broil not working or only one of them?
Gene.
Apparently not working and not knowing how to use it are the same thing in my wife’s mind.
I just tested it out and everything heats up just fine, she was pushing the wrong buttons or something.
Thanks Gene!
You are welcome. I’m glad it was nothing wrong with the oven.
Gene.
Does the Whirlpool RBD245PDT15 have either the Control Panel Thermal Fuse or Shut Down Thermal Fuse?
“E6 F2” displayed for about 8 minutes followed by beep (_ _ . . . ).
Yes, it does have such fuses. What exactly is wrong with the oven?
Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for Whirlpool RBD245PDT15 24" BUILT-IN ELECTRIC DOUBLE OVEN STD-CLEAN LOWER SELF-CLEAN UPPER | AppliancePartsPros.com
Gene.
Display is black and will occasionally display “E6 F2” for about 8 minutes followed by beep (_ _ . . . ). I opened up the top section and located the fuse.
If it does display the error code occasionally then it has nothing to do with the control panel fuse. More likely the problem is a bad control board.
YIPES! I was whining about the $185.00 for a Control Panel and now it’s up to $386.00. I removed the Control Panel and cleaned the ribbon cable with an eraser. After reconnecting the cable the panel lights came on and I was able to set the clock. While I was securing the panel, the display went dark again. Please tell me there’s a chance I can still either fix the problem or a Control Panel will correct what ails it. Retirement income ain’t ready for a $400.00 outlay (Whirlpool Cooktop infinite switch went out, too).
All of the Solutions associated with my Fault Code, E6-F2 (Cancel key drive line open) seem to point toward the Keypad.
[quote=Gene;772031]If it does display the error code occasionally then it has nothing to do with the control panel fuse. More likely the problem is a bad control board.
Talked to someone at Appliance Parts Pro who asked some tech guys if there was a way to determine if the problem with my RBD245PDT15 oven was with the Control Board or Control Panel (keypad). I was advised to
I’m afraid it has nothing to do with the control panel.
Gene.
it appears that the replacement part has 1/4" female spade on one side & 3/16" female spade on the other. as i have to replace mine that has 1/4" on both sides, whic side goes to the control panel