Whirlpool display problems

I have the same display issues that have been reported here. The over one day beeped a few tiems and the display was dead. I shut off power and turned back on, and it worked for a week, then did the same thing again, a few random beeps then dead. The internal light works and the buttons result in beeps, but that’s all.

I read some of the posts and started digging into a solution. I have however seemingly broken the black cover as it was screwed into from the rear. I have no idea how to even access the internals.

Gene - you have the magic solution for me?

In order to access the parts behind the control panel you have to remove the oven side trims first. Open the lower oven door and remove the screw on each side trim. Pull out the trim from the bottom and slide it down. Remove the screws on each side of the control panel and remove the control panel.

Inspect the suppressor board (#20 on the diagram). Check the low voltage transformer (#6 on the diagram) for continuity. Make sure there is a good connection for this transformer to the control board. If there is nothing wrong then most likely the problem is a bad control board. I would replace it together with the transformer to make repair more reliable.

Here is the Tech sheet.

Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL GBD307PRB00 | AppliancePartsPros.com

Gene.

I took the strips off the sides, no problem. The plastic control panel assembly wasn’t connected with screws though. The holes are there, just no screws. So I tugged it a bit and I heard a popp. Assuming it was just stuck and there wasn’t much resistance, I tugged again to get the panel off. Well, the panel was screwed in from the back. This doesn’t sound consistent with your instructions unless I’m being a moron…which is possible. I’ve included a few pictures to show you what I mean.

[COLOR=#23578d]Yfrog - tdy.jpg[/COLOR]

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This forums software hates images…how about an upgrade admins? :slight_smile:

I can’t get the second one in to save my life, it molests the URLs.

At least you can see the broken clips in the one image, though the second one is more clear.

Yfrog - 48920699.jpg

YEAH - got it in…

Sorry about broken parts but my instructions were based on the manufacturer Service manual for these ovens. It’s very hard to diagnose anything remotely and you are only our eyes and hands. Pictures you posted do not provide complete views on the control panel and at this point I can not say exactly how this panel should be removed.

Gene.

Alright, so I swapped out the control board and put it back together…at least, I have a clock that says 12:00. My problem though is that some of the buttons on the right side don’t work. The light button works, but the clock and over off for instance have no response. Thoughts on what could be wrong here?

Check the key panel ribbon cable connection to the control board. [COLOR=#333333][FONT=Verdana]Check the tracks in the ribbon cable for hairline cracks using a magnifying glass. Clean the connector on the board using electronic contact cleaner or isopropyl alcohol and a tooth brush. Do not reconnect till it drys.

Gene.
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Make sure you use non-residue contact cleaner by CRC available at Lowe’s

Cleaned the ribbon - no help, still can’t operate some of the buttons on the right hand side. I’ve lost the light button too, which worked initially.

Incidentally - the ribbon doesn’t sit tight on the control board. It’s snug on the touch panel but easily pulls out of the control board. I don’t think that’s related though, as I held it in secure with my hand and still had no success.

What’s next do you think? Can I get the ribbon separate or is it time for a new touch panel too?

There suppose to be a kind of latch on top of the control board slot to hold the ribbon cable. If it’s not there then try to put a tape around the cable to fix it in the slot.

Gene.

I do have the clip, it just doesn’t do much. But even if I hold the ribbon secure with my hand, I still don’t get most of the right side of the touch controls to work.

Sounds like the membrane switch has gone bad as well. Unfortunately there is no way to check it instrumentally and the part is not cheap. If you need the correct part number then post the color of the key panel.

Gene.

It’s black.

The black key pad AP6015992

Gene.

I’m all back up and running now, thanks for the help Gene.

One side effect though is that the over seems to run hotter than before. Things always gook several minutes faster than recommended on the package for instance. I was thinking the cavity size setting might be a problem, but I don’t get any errors. Any other thoughts?

You are welcome.

Your oven is 30" width and the control board comes preset for 30", so you do not have to do any cavity size adjustment.

You can adjust the oven temperature as described in the Owners manual (page 6).

Merry Christmas and Happy New year!

Gene.