Before taking a shot in the dark and buying a part I may not need I need your opinion. I have a Whirlpool Quiet Partner 1 Model # DU1010XTXQ1 that will not start in the normal way. The unit is 2 years old and has worked fine up until a few days ago when it would not start or in other words all the lights are on but nobody is home. So just for the hell of it, after I pressed the Start key I took the heel of my hand and lightly bumped the panel up near the top by the control keys and the unit started right up and did its thing completely, all cycles. Evidently, the jolt caused something to make contact. Anyway, this routine went on 3 more times except now it won’t start regardless. So I removed the panel to see if maybe the door switch was bad but I checked it with my volt meter’s continuity beep and it works fine when clicked on and off. So I reconnected the switch and held it in the ”on” position and then I took a screwdriver and used the handle to tap the plastic back of the electronic control board a couple good raps and the unit started right up and filled with water. Then it went straight to the drain cycle and drained and continued to be stuck on drain until I pressed the Drain/Cancel key and turned the unit off. Does this sound like I need a new Electronic Control Circuit Board or ‘the Brain” or whatever the official term is. That part number on the unit is W10319897. Thanks
If tapping the back of the control got the machine to run, the control likely has a cold solder joint on it. You may be able to locate that poor connection by removing the electronic control and examining the side that has the solder points on it. Let me know what you find on that control.
Thanks for replying, Ninja. I removed the control board. Talk about tiny solder joints … some of those connections are not more than .040 of inch apart! Helluva difference since my circuit board days, 40 years ago. Inspection reveals a poor solder joint on a capacitor lead that allows the part to easily rock back and forth on the board. It appears to not have had enough solder on it to start with in my opinion. Also, the surface of the board appears to have been coated with some type of protective clear coat to no doubt help prevent oxidation. Not sure if I can successfully re-solder with that stuff on it or not.
Thanks again, Ninja. This site puts the Answer section of that Manage My Life Sears site to shame! Therefore if I can’t fix the board, I will be buying from Appliance Parts Pros instead of Sears.
The so called “expert” on their site was too damn lazy to follow up on my additional questions and it chapped my ass. Moreover, I could tell by his response that he wasn’t too sharp on my first question.
Let me know how it goes, thank you!