I am rebuilding this Kenmore/Whirlpool washer. So much grease and oil leaked around the drive system that I need help on which parts to lubricate/grease and which parts must stay dry (or be cleaned of oil/replaced) on reassembly. In particular, the:
Tub support and brake, seals and bearings
Gearcase shaft/spline
Clutch
Brake and drive tub
Agitator parts
Does the replacement gearcase come filled with oil or do I need to fill it?
So there is no lubrication between the gearcase shaft and the inside of the brake and drive tube or the brake and drive tube and the inside of the tub support/brake assembly? Do I need to at least lubricate the seals in the tub support tube with soap or something for assembly? There was so much grease/oil in these assemblies upon removal, was that all gearcase leakage?
What is the lubricant in the parts list labeled with: Lubricant - “Use only in brake shoe assembly on roller pin”?
This sounds like there is more problems,Was there oil under the gear case?If so what color was the oil?Honey color?or dark brown/black?IF Dark there could more problems.Water could be getting into the gear case from up top at the spin tube.
Yes there was oil under the gearcase and above in the brakes/tubes. I am replacing most of the drivetrain including the gearcase with new parts. I need to make sure that I lube all the right stuff and keep the other stuff clean and dry. What needs to be lubricated (and with what) and what needs to stay dry - from motor to agitator cap, including all of the tubes, seals, bearings, brake, clutch, etc?
Replacing both spin tube and gearcase,myself I would use about 1to2 ounces of turbine oil in the shafts main section where the spin tube lies.In this section theres the main bearings and seals, pour the turbine oil down there.Normally, no grease is required for the spin tube or gearcase post,but you can put a little oil on the spin tube shaft and gearcase post to make it easier to slide them up into place…GOOD LUCK
Sounds like the conservative approach is no lubricant on any drivetrain component from the water pump to the agitator cap and the new gearcase is already filled.
Started the rebuild and one more question. The tub support/brake tube assembly was 90% pre-assembled with all of the bearings and seals pre-greased. The very top seal came in a seperate bag and is of course dry. After pressing this seal into the top of the tube, should it also be greased and if so with what, or left dry?
George No Grease Is Needed.this Seal Is A Water Seal,as I Said When This Seal Is Bad The Water Will Run Down The Gearcase Post And Get Into The Gearcase..
I’m replacing the centerpost seal on my Kenmore 1107460600, but the tub has been leaking for some time and I am concerned about the status of lubrication underneath. I don’t want to do a complete overhaul, which I assume taking apart the gearbox would involve. How concerned should I be about the condition of the gearbox, etc. So far, washing hasn’t been unusually noisy, and there’s no squealing. I recently replaced the drive belt.
I assembled the unit without the turbine oil in the support bearings. What is turbine oil and where do you get it? Also as I have posted elsewhere, I have developed this problem, any ideas?:
“I have rebuilt this Kenmore washer with a new tub support, drivetrain, and basket. The machine was runnng well but after about 10 cycles it started screaching/singing at spin speeds. I found it to be the top seal in the tub support, the one that you have to press into the top of the new tub support tube. With the basket removed, if I squeeze the seal a little while the machine is running, the noise goes away. When I assembled the machine I did not lubricate this seal (just as I was advised), I just pressed it in and inserted the brake tube/transmission. Have I done something wrong or is this seal failing? BTW, when I pressed it in I made the top of the seal shoulder (the friction part, not the very top) flush with the top of the tube.”
I dissasembled a 1 month old washer and took a closer look at the new support tube to get to the bottom of this question.
The bottom inside structure of the centerpost tube/tub support is unchanged - two small rubber seals in the bottom (359449), packed with Rykon grease, topped with a single metal bearing (8546455). The top of the tube innards have changed. The top bearing is closer to the top of the tube, not even one of the old large top rubber seals (356934) would fit, nevermind the two that used to be called for. In this regard, the exploded parts diagrams and their descriptions are wrong, they have not been modified to show this. Now a single redesigned, smaller seal is used and the bottom section of the seal has a grease channel. The part number for this seal is unchanged (356934). If you just need to replace the 2 top seals in an old tube, you need to try and get a pair of the old larger seal and grease the top one only. If you have a newer tube you need one of the newer small top seals. I have gotten both when ordering 356934.
Also, this single top seal must be greased. I first assembled the washer with the seal dry as was suggested and the seal failed after about 10 hours. The seal started singing loudly at spin speeds and scored the stainless spin tube shaft. Also, in a new installation, the top shoulder of the seal is just below the top of the tube. Be careful because if you are not using a centerpost seal installation tool, the seal can jump past a small recess as the shoulder clears the top of the tube. I have constructed a PVC pipe based installer that fits inside the tube diameter and has an outer sleeve to limit travel.
The install sequence is: 2 lower seals (greased) and bearing. Install the top bearing. Install the brake tube. Pour 1 tsp of turbine oil down the assembly. Pack the top seal with grease and assemble.