The ignitor went bad in the small oven on our range and when I replaced it I didn’t use ceramic wire connectors. Over time the plastic connector was touching the side of the metal wall and melted through until the wiring was exposed and caused a short.
Does one wire off the ignitor connect to a fuse or something else that would cause this short?
Thanks for any help.
[quote=oc63rag;287676]The ignitor went bad in the small oven on our range and when I replaced it I didn’t use ceramic wire connectors. Over time the plastic connector was touching the side of the metal wall and melted through until the wiring was exposed and caused a short.
Does one wire off the ignitor connect to a fuse or something else that would cause this short?
Thanks for any help.[/quote]
OC,
No,
There is no fuse in the oven igniter circuit.
As long as the unit is plugged in and has 120 volts, there is 120 volts going to the igniter(based on the diagram).
There are several components involved in the oven ignition and cycling,
Igniter
Bake Burner Valve
Thermostat
Any of which could be damaged due to the short.
What seems to be the problem now ?
hey Joe, thanks for the reply. I put in a new ignitor and it doesn’t glow/light up. I tested it with just a direct wiring to 110 and it glows right away so the ignitor seems fine. It seems like whatever the ignitor connects to is shorted out or preventing power to get to the ignitor.
OC,
Do you have a multi meter, so you can test circuits at the bake burner valve and thermostat ?
As I mentioned last post,
Power in to the igniter is constant as long as there’s power to the range.
Power out is achieved by closing the circuits in the gas valve bi metal switch, and thermostat.
My best guess would be that the switch in the bake burner valve is bad, but that’s only a guess.
You could be sure with a meter.
I do have a meter. Am I just looking for power period or a certain amount?
Thanks again for the help.
[quote=oc63rag;287739]I do have a meter. Am I just looking for power period or a certain amount?
Thanks again for the help.[/quote]
OC,
No you’re looking for resistance readings first.
** Turn off power, or unplug the power cord for the range **
You need to remove the wires from the bake burner valve.
You should read a “closed” circuit across the 2 terminals(using the lowest setting on the meter).
( I think this is where the problem is, You should never have 120 VAC to the bake burner valve, The voltage is reduced to the valve , through the igniter).
You new Igniter, should read 50 to 400 ohms at room temperature.
At the oven thermostat, you should read a closed circuit between terminal 45 to terminal 47 when you set the control to a temperature setting.
You should be able to determine the fault with these checks.
Good Luck.