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Brand:whirlpool
Model Number:wdf320padw0
Main Symptom:no cycling
What happens & when: fills with water then nothing
Error Code (if any):
Parts or tests already tried:
Photos / video link:
Hi applehead, here are the steps for putting the unit into Diagnostic Mode:
During diagnostics, the machine will also check the thermistor/temperature sensor and the OWI (Optical Soil Sensor). The Clean and Sanitized LEDs may illuminate during certain intervals depending on what the sensors detect.
Also, entering Service Diagnostics clears the previous cycle/status information and restores the defaults. The next regular cycle will be a sensor calibration cycle, so it may perform an additional rinse while calibrating the OWI sensor and water-fill amount.
Once the Diagnostic Cycle finishes or is terminated, the dishwasher will return to Standby mode.
Run the diagnostic cyclea nd see what error codes come up.
Ok, today after checking the circulation pump and the two replacement pumps and finding out that these newer pumps only register 96 ohms (approximate) at 200k mutimeter setting, not OL at 200 setting, I put the machine back together and it runs fine at 1 hour wash setting. The control board lights do not shine on heavy and normal cycles. These were the symptoms before the machine stopped cycling. Do I need to replace the board to fix the light situation or is this a wiring issue and why does nobody know about the higher pump ohm values. Obviously the circ, pump and drain pump work fine.
For the Whirlpool WDF320PADW0 circulation pump, you should normally get a fairly low resistance reading when testing directly at the pump terminals. Usually, you’re looking for somewhere around 5–15 ohms, although up to around 30 ohms can still be acceptable.
Make sure the dishwasher is unplugged and disconnect the wires from the pump before testing it.
If you’re getting OL on your meter, that means the motor has an open circuit inside it, usually from a broken or burned-out winding. If that’s what you’re getting, the circulation pump is bad and will need to be replaced.
If you’re getting somewhere between 5–30 ohms, the motor is showing continuity and is most likely okay electrically. At that point, I would check the pump for something physically jamming the impeller, like broken glass, pieces of plastic, or other debris. If everything is clear, then we would need to check whether the control board is actually sending power to the pump.
If you’re getting 0 ohms or very close to 0, that can indicate the motor windings are shorted, which would also mean the pump needs to be replaced.
Also, make sure your meter is set to a low ohms setting. If you put it on something high like 200k ohms and you’re seeing 80–90k, I wouldn’t go by that reading. Switch it back to the lowest ohms setting and test the pump again directly at the terminals.https://youtu.be/wkiVy5r39f4?si=5pC_a56nwFUhoq-4
for the lights I would lean more toward an issue with the control console/touchpad assembly rather than the main control board.
When some of the buttons and lights still work but certain ones don’t respond or light up, that’s usually a sign that the contacts or circuits inside the touchpad are starting to fail.
Before replacing it, I would unplug the dishwasher and check the touchpad ribbon cable where it connects to the control board. Make sure it’s seated properly and doesn’t have any corrosion, burn marks, or damaged traces. If that all looks good, I would replace the control console/touchpad assembly before replacing the main control board.
My dishwasher works with a 1 hour wash cycle. I assumed after bench testing the circulation pump for continuity at 200 setting and getting OL that the pump had failed. I bought TWO new replacement pumps and neither the original or replaced pumps show continuity at 200 setting but all three show 96 at 200k. I am no expert but the chances of three pumps not showing continuity at 200 but 96 200k is very low and washer is cleaning as
cycle of 1 hour wash.
I think we may have had a little misunderstanding. The 96 reading is good. I was just breaking everything down for you and explaining what the readings mean. Sorry for the confusion!
A lot of the information you’ll find online is based on the older-style motors, and those usually read somewhere around 10–30 ohms. The newer replacement pumps are a little different because they use a brushless permanent-magnet motor, so it’s normal to see a higher resistance reading.
On these newer motors, you can see readings around 80–120 ohms, so the 96 ohms you’re getting looks good. That tells us the motor windings have continuity.
Thank you. I thought I was losing my mind. As for the washer filling with water then nothing on high and/ or normal setting but good on 1 hour wash I have no answer. This washer has no ribbon connection to the control board. Until a couple of weeks ago these cycles did wash even without lights then one day heater baked the sponges I put in the tray before pushing cancel button. I am getting different opinions on rebooting or resetting. Do I do the three button cycle with the door open or closed.
You want to perform the sequence with the door completely open.and you said there’s no ribbon on the control panel ? not the control board
