The water quit going to the icemaker. I think its the Dual water inlet valve, What do you think?
The first thing I would check is the temperature in the freezer (it suppose to be bellow 12°F) and the water feeding tube into the ice maker for any blockage.
If there is a water filter - how old is it?
Remove the ice maker head cover and check for 120VAC between “N” & “L” test points. Make sure the test probes are 1/2" in.
If there is 120VAC then using an insulated piece of wire (14 GA), short points “T” & “H” to run the motor. Leave the jumper in for a half of a revolution and remove it. The water valve should be energized in the last half of the revolution.
Post the results.
Here are the break down diagrams for the Roper refrigerator Model RS22AQXKQ00
Gene.
Gene
I’m also having problems with my icemaker on my Whirlpool sr1155811 side-by-side. One night the freezer door didn’t close all the way. There was a lot of water on the floor - since then my icemaker hasn’t worked.
I tried your advice for replacing the water filter and testing the N & L for 120VAC. The T & H test didn’t move anything, but I think it’s because the ice tray is frozen solid.
I think the water feeding tube is blocked, but have tried a hair dryer unfreeze it. Are there any other tips for unblocking the water feeding tube?
Thanks
Hello ,
I back, I just checktest piont between N and L they are 120 v and short piont T H to run the moter , yes , I Leave the jumper in for a half of a revolution and remove and the moter still run for half more revolution then stop but water still not come out . What next I do ? How we know inlet vale work or not ,show me how to test .
Thanks for help
[QUOTE=ngoc101;81725]Hello ,
I back, I just checktest piont between N and L they are 120 v and short piont T H to run the moter , yes , I Leave the jumper in for a half of a revolution and remove and the moter still run for half more revolution then stop but water still not come out . What next I do ? How we know inlet vale work or not ,show me how to test .
Thanks for help[/QUOTE]
Remove the wires from the water valve and repeat the test with the jumper between the “T” & “H” test points. Measure the voltage between the water valve wires during this test. You probably will need somebody to help you by removing the jumper wire.
If you’ll see the meter reading 120VAC for about 5-7 seconds at the end of a revolution then the water valve is bad.
If you would not see 120VAC reading at all then the ice maker is the culprit.
Gene.
[QUOTE=ngoc101;81725]Hello ,
I back, I just checktest piont between N and L they are 120 v and short piont T H to run the moter , yes , I Leave the jumper in for a half of a revolution and remove and the moter still run for half more revolution then stop but water still not come out . What next I do ? How we know inlet vale work or not ,show me how to test .
Thanks for help[/QUOTE]
Did you find a resolution? This is my experience as well.
I defrosted the unit and it seemed the tray would then fill with water, but, wouldn’t eject ice into the bin (no sounds, either).
Test points show 120V, but, shorting T H doesn’t result in any movement from the motor (should I hear any sort of sound?).
What do you suppose has failed; or is the tray frozen in some way that it can’t eject ice? I’ve put some warm water on the ice tray to no effect.
Thanks
J
[QUOTE=BroJoe;95458]Did you find a resolution? This is my experience as well.
I defrosted the unit and it seemed the tray would then fill with water, but, wouldn’t eject ice into the bin (no sounds, either).
Test points show 120V, but, shorting T H doesn’t result in any movement from the motor (should I hear any sort of sound?).
What do you suppose has failed; or is the tray frozen in some way that it can’t eject ice? I’ve put some warm water on the ice tray to no effect.
Thanks
J[/QUOTE]
Sounds like the ice maker has gone bad. If you need the correct part number for the ice maker then post the complete model number of the refrigerator.
Gene.
[QUOTE=Gene;96157]Sounds like the ice maker has gone bad. If you need the correct part number for the ice maker then post the complete model number of the refrigerator.
Gene.[/QUOTE]
Hi Gene, thanks;
It’s a 10655502400, Kenmore.
Joe
2005 or 2006 Whirlpool GD5RHAXNB00 - Ice maker stopped working
The ice maker stopped working after a week long power outage in January of this year and the first thing I found when I finally got around to diagnosing it was an open coil on the ice maker water inlet valve which I replaced and tested with an external 120 V source and when energized water flowed from the ice maker tube, but still no normal operation. The light on the infrared receiver is on solid with the slider in ON position and it flashes with the slider in the OFF position.
I removed the ice makers motor head cover and measured 107 volts at the N and L test ports (and on the black and white Ice maker plug leads), but when I inserted a jumper in the H and T ports with the ice maker connected, the motor did not run and the N-L voltage went to zero.
I removed the motor head and applied 120V from an external source to the motor leads and it ran through a full rotation. I WD40d the motor head plug and internal pin contacts and reassembled, but it still does not turn with a H to T jumper.
When I removed the motor head cover the first time, a little piece of white plastic 1/8"wide, 1/16"thick, and 3/8"long with one rounded end and one angled/broken end fell out, but I can’t see a mating surface on any of the white plastic arms inside. All the inside contacts and circuit strips looked clean and bright.
Suggestions for further testing would be greatly appreciated.
Looks like the problem is a bad ice maker thermostat. I would not waste time and money to fix the old ice maker because it can be something else wrong with it and rate of success on such repairs is very low. A whole new ice maker is much better idea.
- The ice maker AP3182733
Here are the breakdown diagram and Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL GD5RHAXNB00 | AppliancePartsPros.com
Gene.
Thanks, Gene,
I see the thermostat on the parts diagram, so maybe I am trying to check the ice maker the wrong way and not letting it get cold enough. Is there a threshold temperature at which the thermostat allows the motor to run and above which it does not? The older motor assembly will run at room temperature, but the newer one will not. Could the thermostat also affect the voltage measured at the L and N ports?
The newer ice maker has a potted device on the black lead of the wiring harness that clips to the ice mold while the older one does not; I think I measured about 75 ohms resistance in the lead with device. What is the purpose of it? Also, what is the purpose of the little white slotted screw on both motor module’s side that seems to move a set of contacts in the motor housing?
I'd like to be sure the ice maker module is the real problem before I spend $125. Right now the older motor module on the newer ice maker will run a cycle on the counter at room temp with 120V applied to black and white leads, but it still won't run when plugged into the refrigerator's connector.
Gene;
My icemaker has been out for some time, so I ran the tests you recommended below. There is no voltage across the N&L terminals. However, when I unplugged the icemaker and measured the voltage across incoming leads, it was only about 92-93 volts and the voltage going to the water valve is only about 89-90 volts. Is this normal for a Whirlpool? Model No. GD5RHAXNQ00.
Before I buy a new icemaker, however, the compressor has been making a knocking noise about every hour or so. This has been going on for the better part of a year. The compressor appears to be well anchored to the bracket but is hot to the touch (if that means anything bad). Otherwise, both refrigerator and freezer (side by side) appear to be cooling adequately. Just measured the freezer at between 10 and 0 degrees F. Is this knocking noise a problem a pro can easily fix or is it an indication that my refrigerator is on its way out.
Thanks
[quote=Gene;23587]The first thing I would check is the temperature in the freezer (it suppose to be bellow 12°F) and the water feeding tube into the ice maker for any blockage.
If there is a water filter - how old is it?
Remove the ice maker head cover and check for 120VAC between “N” & “L” test points. Make sure the test probes are 1/2" in.
If there is 120VAC then using an insulated piece of wire (14 GA), short points “T” & “H” to run the motor. Leave the jumper in for a half of a revolution and remove it. The water valve should be energized in the last half of the revolution.
Post the results.
Here are the break down diagrams for the Roper refrigerator Model RS22AQXKQ00
Gene.[/quote]
[QUOTE=mallisonb;497563]…Is this knocking noise a problem a pro can easily fix or is it an indication that my refrigerator is on its way out…[/QUOTE]
If it comes from inside of the compressor then it’s not repairable. The life time of such compressor is unpredictable.
In regards of the ice maker problems, you may want to replace the optic boards first.
Gene.
In regards of the ice maker problems, you may want to replace the optic boards first.
Gene.[/quote]
So even if the red light appears to be functioning correctly, the optics boards can effect the functionality of the icemaker?
Yes, because it supplies power for the ice maker.
Gene.
[quote=Gene;498951]Yes, because it supplies power for the ice maker.
Gene.[/quote]
Thought so. I already ordered the part on that assumption.
Thanks a bunch
By the way, after pulling my refrigerator away from the wall and removing the little cardboard panel that covers the compressor, I haven’t heard the compressor make that knocking noise. The fridge is still sitting in the middle of my kitchen floor so I don’t know if moving it back will have any effect. Not sure why it would unless sitting in a corner creates a lot of heat build up that stresses the compression and makes it act up.
Thanks for what you do. You’ve been a great help.
You are welcome.
It’s hard to say what caused that noise. It could the cardboard cover interfering with some moving parts, the fan blade touching the frame or something else like that. Carefully move it back in place and make sure it is leveled and the floor under the refrigerator is firm.
Gene.
I have an icemaker with similar concern, I have replaced the dual water valve and still get no water. Do I replace the module or is it chaeper and feasible to replace icemaker assy? I am going to test the jumper wire this evening. Thanks in advance!
Danny,
If the temperature in the freezer is no more than 5°F and the water line into the ice maker is not blocked then the solution is to replace the whole ice maker. It makes the repair much more reliable than fixing the old ice maker.
If the ice maker harness plug is flat then you can use the ice maker AP6016628
Otherwise you have to order the ice maker AP2984633
Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL RS22AQXMQ00 REFRIGERATOR | AppliancePartsPros.com
Gene.