Possible Causes:
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Agitator: The agitator moves the clothes around during the wash cycle in top-load washers. If the agitator needs to be replaced or fixed, the clothes may not be washing properly during the cleaning process.
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Agitator coupling: Connects the drive shaft to the agitator. If your washer won’t agitate but the agitator checked out fine, the agitator coupling may be the culprit and need to be replaced.
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Coupler: The coupling connects the motor to the transmission shaft. These work together so the motor can spin the transmission. If the coupler has failed, you may hear noise as the motor is running, but the washer won’t agitate or enter the spin cycle even though the washer fills with water. This may also create a fair amount of noise.
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Drive Belt: The drive belt connects the motor pulley to the drive pulley so the inner tub can spin. If the belt is broken, the washer won’t agitate or wash clothes correctly.
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Door Latch Assembly: This is a safety device that tells the washer if the door is closed. If it fails, it may think the washer door is open even when you close the lid. This will prevent the washer from starting.
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Motor control board: Provides power and controls the speed and direction of the motor. If the control board is defective or damaged, it may not be sending power to the motor so the washer won’t agitate.
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Drive motor: The drive motor converts electrical energy into mechanical energy to drive the washer. If your washer won’t agitate, the drive motor could have failed and either needs to be fixed or replaced.
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Water level switch: The water level switch controls the amount of water going into the washer. If the washer won’t agitate, the water level switch could have failed. Follow the directions within the video to diagnose the water level switch and determine if that is the reason the washer won’t wash your clothes correctly.
Tools you’ll need
It all depends on the model. Typically good to have on hand are a 1/4" nutdriver, Phillips and Flathead Screwdriver, a Multimeter, Putty Knife
You can find OEM washer repair parts here.
Full transcript – click to expand
View Transcript
Hi, this is Matt with AppliancePartsPros.com.
In this video, we're going to show you how to troubleshoot the top eight reasons why
your washing machine won't agitate.
Stick around to the end of the video for an important washer safety tip that most people
don't even know about.
But before we begin, we're going to make sure the appliance is unplugged or the circuit
breakers are off so there's no chance of electrocution.
Also make sure you turn off your hot and cold water supplies.
The first thing we need to look at is the agitator.
It agitates the clothes during the wash cycle.
There are many styles of agitators that have been used over the years.
Some are all one piece and others have an upper and lower agitator.
They're only used on top load washers and are located in the center of the inner tub.
If the washer won't agitate, it could be that the lower part of the agitator where it attaches
to the coupling is damaged.
No matter what style you have, you'll need to remove the agitator, turn it over, and
check the splines for damage.
If any are worn or damaged, they could be preventing the agitator from being driven
and you'll have to replace it.
If you have a two piece agitator and the base is okay, it could be that the upper agitator
parts are worn out, preventing the upper agitator from working.
Most upper agitators spin freely one way and the teeth engage as you turn it the other
way.
If you can turn it freely both ways, more than likely the teeth inside have worn.
Some two piece agitators are sold only as complete assemblies, but there are others
that can be rebuilt with agitator repair kits.
So if you have the rebuildable agitator, take it apart so you can inspect all the smaller
pieces.
Usually it's the agitator dogs that need to be replaced, but the kits come with all the
parts that normally wear out.
Also check the upper agitator itself.
If it's cracked, damaged, or the teeth are worn out, you'll have to replace it.
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Next, we need to check the agitator coupling.
It connects the driveshaft to the agitator.
Couplings come in many different styles.
They're made of plastic or metal and attached to the driveshaft.
Most of them have splines that lock the agitator in place in order to drive it.
If your washer won't agitate, but your agitator checked out okay, the coupling may be bad.
They're located underneath the agitator or pulsator at the top of the driveshaft.
In order to check it, remove the agitator.
Once you have it off, look at the coupling.
If it's cracked or any of the splines are damaged, then it's failed and needs to be
replaced.
Then take the coupling off the driveshaft and inspect underneath it.
Depending upon your style, you may have splines or flats that lock onto the shaft.
If they're worn out, the coupling will spin freely on the shaft and the washer won't agitate.
If that's the case, you'll need to replace it.
Now we need to check the coupler.
It's what connects the motor to the transmission on older direct drive top load washers.
The coupler is made up of three pieces, usually two plastic and one rubber, that work together
so the motor can spin the transmission.
One side of the coupler is mounted on the transmission and another is mounted on the
The rubber part goes in between to absorb shocks and vibrations.
If the coupler is failed, you might hear the motor running, but the washer won't agitate
or spin.
You'll also hear a loud noise coming from that area as the broken coupler pieces grind
together.
That may also leave pieces of rubber or plastic on the ground underneath the washer.
If that's the case, you'll have to replace it.
Next is the drive belt.
It connects the motor pulley to the drive pulley so the inner tub can agitate and spin.
There are two different types of drive belts, V-belts and multi-group belts.
No matter what style you have, if the belt's broken, fallen off, or stretched to the point
that it's slipping, the washer won't agitate.
On front loaders, they're usually located at the back, and on top loaders, they're usually
located on the bottom.
Visually inspect the belt.
If it just fell off, you can try to put it back on and see if it works, but if it's stretched
or damaged, you'll have to replace it.
Now we're going to check the door latch assembly.
It's a safety device that tells the washer if the door is closed and locks it during
the cycle.
There are many different styles of door latch assemblies.
If it fails, the washer won't get the signal from the latch that the door is closed and
locked, so it will think the door is open.
Depending upon your washer style, it may still fill, but it won't agitate.
If you have a washer that has a diagnostic mode, after several tries, the washer will
display an error code indicating it's failed.
On front loaders, the assembly is located behind the front panel, and on top loaders,
it's located on the top.
Before you open up the machine, first take a look at the door strike, just to make sure
it's not damaged.
If your washer's not agitating, and it's giving you an error code, you'll have to get the
tech sheet, find your code, and follow the troubleshooting steps.
If there's no code, but you still suspect the latch has failed, you'll have to use the
tech sheet or wiring diagram to figure out how to check it on your specific model.
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of these videos.
Next thing to check is the motor control board.
It controls the speed and direction of the motor.
A lot of newer washers have a separate control board that controls the functions of the motor.
If it's failed, it may not be sending power to the motor, so the washer won't agitate.
On front loaders, they're usually mounted on the bottom of the machine on the base.
On top loaders, they're usually located inside the control panel.
First thing you want to do is check that the wiring connections to the board, in between
the board and the motor, are plugged in securely.
Also make sure there's no corrosion or noticeable damage to any of the connections.
If that doesn't solve the problem, you'll have to get the tech sheet and follow the troubleshooting
steps to test the board on your specific model.
If it fails, you'll need to replace it.
Next we're going to check the drive motor.
It converts electrical energy into mechanical energy to drive the washer.
There are many styles of motors, but they all work the same.
Some use a belt and pulley system, others use a direct drive motor to drive the tub.
If your washer won't agitate, it could be that the motor has failed.
On top load washers, the motor is usually mounted towards the bottom of the machine.
On front loaders, with a direct drive motor, it's usually mounted on the back of the tub.
But if it has a belt, it'll be mounted on the bottom of the tub.
If you only hear a humming noise when the motor tries to start, it's likely that it's
failed.
But first you want to make sure that nothing is jamming up the motor, such as a blockage
in the drain pump or a locked up transmission.
On top load washers, you may have to remove the belt or motor to turn the transmission
to make sure it's not locked up.
While you have the motor free, check to see that it's not jammed.
Also, if you have the style of drain pump that's mounted directly on the motor, you'll
have to check that it's not blocked.
On front loaders with a belt, you can take the belt off to see if the tub and motor spin.
And on direct drive front loaders, turn the rotor to make sure it spins freely.
If the motor, tub, or pump are not physically jammed up, then you'll have to test the
motor to see if there's an electrical problem.
Because there are so many different types of motors out there, you'll have to get
your tech sheet or wiring diagram and follow the troubleshooting steps.
The last thing to check is the water level switch.
It controls the amount of water going into the washer.
The water level switch is a pressure switch that turns the water off when it gets to the
correct level, and then sends power to the motor to start the wash cycle.
Inside the switch are two sets of contacts, one that sends power to the inlet valve until
the washer is full, and another that sends power to the motor after the tub is full.
On top loaders, it's usually mounted on the control panel behind the water level selector
knob, and on front loaders, it's usually mounted on the upper cabinet frame.
If the washer won't agitate once it's filled, the contacts that send power to the motor
have likely failed.
On front loaders, if your washer won't agitate, you may get an error code related to the fill
cycle.
In that case, you'll have to get the tech sheet, find your error code, and follow the
troubleshooting steps to test the water level switch.
For top loaders, we're going to test the switch to make sure it's sending power to the motor.
In order to see if the part can carry electric current, we need to test it with a multimeter
set to continuity.
Once you have it set, touch the probes together to make sure it's working.
You'll need to consult your wiring diagram to see which wires to test.
In our case, the violet is power, the pink goes to the inlet valve, and the tan sends
power to the motor.
In order to test the switch, we need to take it off the machine.
So first remove the water level selector knob, then open up the console and remove the pressure
hose from the switch.
Now you can take the switch off and remove the wiring harness.
Attach a multimeter probe to both the power and motor terminals.
You should not have continuity.
Then gently blow into the hose fitting on the switch.
You should hear the diaphragm inside move to the tub full position.
At that point, the meter should show continuity.
If it doesn't, you'll have to replace the switch.
Now here's that safety tip we promised you earlier.
Washing machine fill hose inspection is often overlooked by most people.
If your fill hose bursts, it can cause severe water damage to your home.
A fill hose can flood your home with up to 500 gallons of water per hour, so it's important
to inspect them regularly.
Make sure to check the entire hose for any signs of bulging or leaking.
Also make sure the fittings aren't corroded.
Then shut off the water and look at the washers and screens inside.
If they're clogged, you can just clean them out, but if they're rusted or damaged, you'll
need to replace them.
When you reinstall them or put new ones on, make sure the hose fittings on each end are
tight so you don't get any leaks.
There are many different types of hoses.
The most common ones are rubber or braided stainless steel.
Rubber is the most common type of hose, but if you want extra burst protection because
of where the washer is installed, it's recommended that you upgrade to the stainless steel type.
Some of the newer systems even have an auto shutoff feature that shuts the water off if
a leak or change in pressure is detected.
Regardless of the hose type or the warranty it has, it's important to check them at least
one to two times a year because they can fail at any time.
Once you take care of the problem, you can plug the appliance in, turn the water back
on, and take it for a spin.
Thanks for joining us for another troubleshooting video brought to you by AppliancePartsPros.com.
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