Hi. A friend suspects that my washing has stopped working because the timer is shot., How do I test the timer to know for sure? I don’t want to buy one if that is not the real problem. Betty Hinks
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]Post the model number and tell us what the washer is doing. Also tell us why your friend thinks the timer is bad. Timers are not easy to check so give us this info to see if there is anything else you need to check. Clothes Washer Repair Guide[/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]
The machine just stopped working. We checked all the obvious: power, hoses, turned on, etc. and nothing puts it in motion. We thought at first it was the lid switch, but we found that it was not faulty. The next thing seemed to be the timer. No place on the timer worked when we tried several different settings. It would not even fill. I await your reply. Thanks, Betty Hinks
Very rare a timer completely fails like this. If the timer is metal, you can pull the cover off and check the on/off contacts for burnt signs.
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]If it won’t do anything at all (fill, wash, pump-out or spin) it is a good chance the timer is bad but I agree with richappy they don’t fail like this very often. If you have no luck looking for burnt spots inside the timer try this before you condemn the timer. [/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]
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[SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000][FONT=Times New Roman]I know you said you check the power but did you check it with a voltmeter? Sometimes there can be a loose neutral somewhere in the circuit in your house wiring and a voltmeter will still read voltage. Try plugging something in the same outlet that pulls a good amount of current such as a hair dryer. [/FONT][/COLOR][/SIZE]
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[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]Also check for any loose connections in the washer a lot of times there will be a plug that connects the cord to the rest of the wiring inside the washer control, look for a loose connection there. Make sure the timer is plugged in good, things to that nature. Hope this helps!![/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]
Hi. Thanks for your reply. We did, in fact, check all the internal plugs we could get to, especially the ones under the top panel. I have to find a volt meter to check the other things. We did try changing the plug to another socket and still no results, but the socket worked for other things. They were not big power draws, and I will try that. Mostly, I’m trying to figure out how to test the timer so I’ll know whether that really is bad. Any suggestions? Thanks again. Betthinks
Hi. The timer is plastic. What now?
One more thing. The timer is plastic, but it has several metal prongs which plug in. Does that help?
Follow applianceman’s advice, I have NEVER seen a plastic timer fail! These new plastic timers have put most of the old timer repair shops out of business! Per the schematic, you can check for continuity across the on/off contacts when you turn the timer on.
Thanks so much. I got the same message from someone else who knows washers, so it seems we are back to the lid switch. He said if it failed, the machine would shut down and not operate at all.. Do you agree?
[SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000][FONT=Times New Roman]I believe that if the lid switch on your washer was bad it would still fill and wash. That is how most Whirlpools are. The lid switch would stop just stop if from spinning. [/FONT][/COLOR][/SIZE]
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[COLOR=#000000][FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]I took a look at the diagram to confirm and your washer would still fill and wash if the lid switch were bad. [/SIZE][/FONT][/COLOR]
Originally, the machine filled and agitated, then stopped. The lid switch had come apart, we discovered when we opened the cabinet. When the pole hit the switch, it sort of “fell down” under the top. My friend put it back together, used a tiny amount of heavy duty glue to hold it together, screwed it back on and we left it to dry. Later we went and tried the switch to see if it was working again, and nothing. No power at all. The appliance guy I talked to said something about the clear tube running from the switch under the top, and said if that part failed, it would shut the machine down. Does that make any sense?, given the way it first acted?
Thanks for answering. I really appreciate the education. I cannot afford to call a repairman, so I am trying to figure this out myself. Betty Hinks
With this new info now I would recommend changing the lid switch. I had no idea it came apart like that on you. At the very least you know the lid switch is bad so change that first hopefully that will be the only problem.
You can put a jumper wire between the two outer pins of the lid switch connector located behind the control panel.Then see if it works.The clear tube to the switch is for mechanical support of the wires, no electrical function at all.
Thank you so much. I kind of wondered about the “tubing” thing. I have ordered a new lid switch and we give that a try. Let’s hope that is the problem. Thanks again. Betty Hinks
Let us know how you make out.
For do-it-yourself appliance repair visit Appliance Repair Guide For All Major Home Appliances
I got the new lid switch and installed it, but no luck. The machine simply will not respond to being turned on. No fill, no agitation, no nothing. What would be the next best thing to check? Betty Hinks
I have the same problem, anxious to find out what the answer is!
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]If you do not have a loose wire I would say that the timer is bad even though we have been saying they don’t go bad often. [/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]