Washing Machine still doesn't spin after Clutch install.

Washer Repair
1

Before I replaced the clutch, the machine would do one of two things: First, not spin large loads at all or very little; second, drain but not spin at all. The clutch replacement addressed the first problem. However, after installing clutch and testing the machine, it still does not engage the spin cycle and only drains. Could this be a timer issue?

Also, after installing the clutch, the machine no longer detects the water level and overflows the basket and does not advance into the agitation cycle.

EDIT: I already changed the motor drive coupling.

2

How did the clutch replacement address the first problem if it still doesn’t spin? Are you confusing spin with agitation? Is there a problem with the agitator or just spin cycle? As for the overfill, you probably either crimped the pressure hose when putting things back together or you pulled the hose loose from one of the pressure switches.

Eric

3

[quote=fairbank56;851007]How did the clutch replacement address the first problem if it still doesn’t spin? Are you confusing spin with agitation? Is there a problem with the agitator or just spin cycle? As for the overfill, you probably either crimped the pressure hose when putting things back together or you pulled the hose loose from one of the pressure switches.

Eric[/quote]

Thanks for your reply. The clutch was slipping and did not allow the machine to spin very fast or not all when spinning large loads. I replaced that as per your suggestion in the previous thread I posted last week.

As mentioned, before installing the clutch, the machine would either not spin at all during the spin cycle or it would spin but not very well. When it would not spin, it would just pump the water out without any indication of spinning. When it would spin (small loads), it would drain and spin but leave the clothing wet at the bottom of the basket.

I had a serviceman out to look at my other Roper washing machine (under warranty) this morning before I did the clutch replacement. I showed him how I could move the clutch bands within the clutch housing with just my finger. He said that the clutch definately needed to be replaced. So, I can probably rule out any mechanical problem at this point with the spin cycle.

After installing the new clutch (and motor drive coupling), I tested the machine with a medium load of laundry. The machine started to fill and I walked away for 10 minutes. When I returned, I saw water spilling out the top of the basket and the timer stuck at the beginning of the cycle. I turned off the machine and advanced it to the spin cycle. The water drained (pump was pumping), but absolutely no spinning occured. This is why I think it might be the timer.

Also, I read this thread which is very similar to my problem (I know it’s a Maytag and totally different). Replier suggested a new timer.

http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/washer-repair/60555-washing-machine-sparatic-wont-spin-more.html

Both Roper washing machines are in a damp basement. The serviceman who was here this morning had to change the timer on the other machine under warranty because it would stop in the middle of the agitation cycle and would sometimes not spin. I transferred my ‘test’ load of laundry to the machine with the timer replaced and it went through a complete cycle without issue. So, the timer replacement seemed to fix the problem on that machine.

Needless to say, I changed the timer on this machine seven months ago with a refurbished unit (warranty on the refurb. part was 6 months). I think the damp basement might be corroding the timers somehow. I purchased a replacement timer after I posted this thread just in case. As far as the issue with the overfill, do you have any writeups or videos of how to address a crimped or loose hose to the pressure switch? Also, what are your thoughts about replacing the timer to address the sporatic spin cycle?

Thanks again for taking the time to address this issue.

4

There is only one situation in which the timer would prevent spinning and that is not likely the case with your problem. The gearcase has a neutral drain function. Directly after agitation stops, the washer goes into drain, without spin, for 2 minutes. After the 2 minute period, the timer will stop the motor for a few seconds. This causes the gearcase to shift out of neutral. When the motor starts again, it will start spinning while continuing to drain. If the timer did not cause the motor to pause after drain, then it would never go into spin but only continue to drain for the entire spin cycle. That does not appear to be the problem with yours. You can simulate the pause by simply lifting the lid to stop the motor for a few seconds. If it still won’t go into spin with lid closed again, but does drain, then the problem is not the timer. Best thing to do is to run the machine with cabinet removed and lid switch bypassed so you can observe what’s going on. During spin cycle, if the clutch hub is spinning, then the gearcase is ok. Look up into brake hub. If brake spring is not spinning, then the clutch is slipping. If the brake spring is spinning but basket is not, then it’s likely a worn drive block or loose tub nut. The pressure hose runs from an air chamber on the lower right side of the outer tub up to the two pressure switches behind the control panel. You will have to trace that run looking for the problem. As the water level in tub rises, air pressure is created in the hose which is used to operate the switches. The switch turns power off to the fill valves and on for the motor for agitation.

Eric

5

[quote=fairbank56;851026]There is only one situation in which the timer would prevent spinning and that is not likely the case with your problem. The gearcase has a neutral drain function. Directly after agitation stops, the washer goes into drain, without spin, for 2 minutes. After the 2 minute period, the timer will stop the motor for a few seconds. This causes the gearcase to shift out of neutral. When the motor starts again, it will start spinning while continuing to drain. If the timer did not cause the motor to pause after drain, then it would never go into spin but only continue to drain for the entire spin cycle. That does not appear to be the problem with yours. You can simulate the pause by simply lifting the lid to stop the motor for a few seconds. If it still won’t go into spin with lid closed again, but does drain, then the problem is not the timer. Best thing to do is to run the machine with cabinet removed and lid switch bypassed so you can observe what’s going on. During spin cycle, if the clutch hub is spinning, then the gearcase is ok. Look up into brake hub. If brake spring is not spinning, then the clutch is slipping. If the brake spring is spinning but basket is not, then it’s likely a worn drive block or loose tub nut. The pressure hose runs from an air chamber on the lower right side of the outer tub up to the two pressure switches behind the control panel. You will have to trace that run looking for the problem. As the water level in tub rises, air pressure is created in the hose which is used to operate the switches. The switch turns power off to the fill valves and on for the motor for agitation.

Eric[/quote]

Thanks again for the reply. I’ll follow the detailed procedure you described to try and troubleshoot the issue in a few days.

-John.

6

I replaced the clutch on my washer model number LSQ9600LW0. it trys to adatate. Will drain water makes a grinding noise the whole time it’s running and will not spin. Plus there is a lose bracket under the tub

7

My washer does not spin or adgitate